Mexico - Mayan marvels in Valladolid

Mayan descendants outside one of the pyramids in Coba
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Looking out the bus window at the Cancun coastal skyline, resort after horrific high rise resort, we were pleased we´d decided to head straight from the airport to Valladolid, a colonial style city some three hours away. Sadly though, ours was an inauspicious arrival, the bus pulling in two hours late and us getting completely lost in the labyrinthine streets, our bags seemingly filling with rocks with every step.

Finally we found the house of Antonio “Negro” Aguilar. One of the best Mexican baseball players in history, “El Negro” is something of a local celebrity who these days seems content to live the quiet life renting out bicycles and rooms. So quiet was his life on that particular day that he seemed to have completely shut up shop and we knocked our knuckles bear on his door in a desperate bid to find a bed for the night.

Meeting Mexico´s finest athlete

Chris getting down to business in the fantastic food hall, Valladolid
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Luckily for us, many Mexicans like to ‘get involved’ and seeing two stranded beasts of burden with their heavy loads looking to get into the hotel some townsfolk took to helping us out. For the next fifteen minutes various men tried down to break down “el negro´s” door, hollering and banging and badgering every passer by as to whether they had seem him.

Eventually a gruff voice boomed out from behind the huge, stable like doors before they swung open to reveal as unathletic figure as you could conjour up. There he was, “El Negro”, sandwiched between his armchair and zimmer frame, eyes moving in different directions behind his inch-thick spectacles and huge belly hanging over an inappropriately small pair of bright yellow shorts, which were unfortunately his only item of clothing. If it wasn´t for the various banners, medals and photos adorning every available inch of space we would have thought we were visiting Mexican Big Daddy rather than ex-super athlete.

El Castillo, the main pyramid at Chichen Itza
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We had plumped for Valladolid mainly to use it as a base for visiting the nearby Mayan ruins of Coba and the famous Chichen Itza rather than for any merits of the town itself. However, we found it to be relaxed, stimulating and very attractive, as well as blessedly untouristy. Like many Spanish colonial towns it sports brightly coloured low rise buildings, large open squares and churches a plenty, not to mention impromptu music and dancing in various spots.

After a night spent indulging in our favourite Mexican activity (eating vast quantities of cheap tasty food) we headed off to the Mayan ruins of Coba. Its name means "ruffled waters", derived from the five lakes in the vicinity, and it is one of the oldest Mayan settlements on the peninsular. It also has the highest pyramid in the area (amazing view over the jungle) and the greatest concentration of sacbeob (Mayan roads constructed from stone and linking many of their cities). Only a small fraction of the many structures in this vast site have been excavated and this, together with the remoteness and jungle setting, contribute to the feeling of exploring new ground. Many of the structures have been reclaimed by nature, making Cobá beautiful and mysterious. A visit here requires some effort but is very worthwhile.

Ornate Mayan architecture
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Apart from effort one also requires quick reflexes. Because of the distances involved in walking between the different areas in Coba, bicycles and bicitaxis abound. As do blind corners. This makes for an interesting mix as they come hurtling round the corner and you try to dive out of the way whilst simultaneously trying to avoid the 2500 year old monument you´re about to fall on.

More Mayan entertainment awaited us the next day, when we visited Chichen Itza, probably the most famous and most visited of Mexico´s Mayan ruins. Being almost totally excavated and cleared of trees, not to mention swarming with coach loads of tourists, Chichen Itza couldn´t be more different to Coba. In fact it is so well excavated and visited that it runs the danger of taking on a theme park feel.

Valladolid town centre
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The magnificent buildings do, however, bear testimony to the incredible skill of the Mayans. The main temple for example incorporates all aspects of the main Mayan calendar (which was more accurate than our current day calendar) and on the spring and autumn equinoxes at the rising and setting of the sun, the corner of the structure casts a shadow in the shape of a plumed serpent which then slithers down the side of the pyramid demonstrating astounding mathematical and astronomical knowledge.

Many of the descendants of this great civilisation, the indigenous peoples have been and continue to be discriminated against in Mexico. They are held by many to be simple, backward, even stupid people. Ironic considering the esteemed skills, knowledge and level of advancement of their ancestors.