Dubrovnik

Entering Dubrovnik
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We arrived into Dubrovnik around 2:30pm, getting out of Split as fast as we could around 9:30am. We again took the winding coastal route down and did not stop at any of the cities along the way. We were a bit nervous about the border crossing with Bosnia-Herzegovina along the way due to some horrible stories we read on some other travel sites. I guess in some cases the border guards will make you purchase additional insurance if you are driving in, including a full vehicle inspection along with all your belongings. We did not encounter this at all. We don’t know if it was the more touristy traveled coastal route we were on (there is also an inland route you can take to Dubrovnik), but they let us pass through without a stop or any hassles. Getting back into Croatia was a bit stricter, but we just showed our passports and rental car documents and they let us through without inspection. If you like you can also stop at the only coastal town in Bosnia-Herzegovina, Neum, which offers even more savings than Croatia if you want to do some shopping.

Old Dubrovnik - SouthEast Walls & Marina
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Dubrovnik, Croatia. “Non bene pro toto libertas venditur auro” (“Liberty cannot be sold for all the gold in the world”). This is the inscription found over the main entrance of the Lovrjenac Fortress, the earliest of all the forts in Dubrovnik, built in the 12^th century. And this credo of “Libertas” is shown throughout the architecture, layout and people of this beautiful town. The Old Town of Dubrovnik (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), coined the “jewel of the Adriatic”, seems like it was built out of one gigantic piece of limestone that rose naturally out of the sea at the base of Srd Hill. The limestone hollowed out to embrace a vibrant city and its rims sculpted to form huge towering walls, blending perfectly with its rocky base and wild sea. The city is definitely a sight to see.

The Jewel of the Adriatic

Standing on the Pile Gate
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We centered our entire vacation around Dubrovnik and it did not disappoint. In each of our stays along this trip, we felt content towards the end that it was time to leave. That was not the case here. Perhaps it was our anticipation of Dubrovnik looming in the horizon, but once we arrived and until the very last hour of the last day, we did not want to say goodbye.

One must is to visit the Memorial Room of Dubrovnik Defenders. A very modest, one room memorial located at the entrance of the Sponza Palace, pays tribute to the men and women who defended Dubrovnik during 1991-1992 when the city was caught in the cross-hairs of the Yugoslavian civil war. Cut off from the rest of Croatia and shelled with over 2,000 bombs from land and sea, Dubrovnik sustained heavy damage to their historic walls and palaces. One cannot leave that room without a deep sense of empathy for a city and people who risked their lives riding out the attack and keeping their motto of “libertas” intact. It is very moving and you should not forget to sign the guestbook.

Changing of the Guards
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Another must is to take the wall tour. It will take about 2-3 hours to completely circle the walls and will offer a complete view of the city. Moreover, you can truly appreciate the reconstruction efforts they have undertaken to maintain the look and feel of old Dubrovnik. The rooftops of most houses have a combination of bright new terra cotta tiles intermingled with the old existing ones, clearly identifying the areas that were most heavily damaged during the siege. Just check out the pictures.

Church of St. Blaise
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And finally, for all those romantics at heart, Dubrovnik will now forever be a special place for us because it was where I proposed to Colleen and she accepted. We had dinner at the restaurant, Arsenale, overlooking the marina, with a Croatian quartet giving a concert aboard a replica 17^th century sailing ship docked close by as our dinner music. I have to admit the singers were not planned at all, but just got lucky the ship happened to be docked in the marina that night. We will definitely be planning return visits to this beautiful city.