Luang Prabang Delights

Inside a Wat
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Luang Prahbang at last, a quick shower to cool off, then off out to check out the night markets and the town. Bumped into our boat companions who were going to climb Mt Phousi so we joined them to climb the 300 odd steps to watch the sunset over Luang Prahbang. Quite a haul but well worth it - great views of Luang Prahbang and a huge thundercloud forms directly in front of the setting sun resulting in a magnificent colour display. The sunset itself was a fizzer. Back down the stairs, wander around the markets - booked our trip for the elephant trek the next day, then off to dinner and a quiet beer.

We explore the jungle with elephant power
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Next morning up early to be collected for our half day elephant trek. Into the Land Rover where we meet our trekking companions for a bumpy ride to the elephant lodge. A short walk and we are introduced to a 3 year old baby elephant and feed him lots of bananas. Off for a walk to a local village - no sales people this time! Down to the river Nam Khan where our troubles begin - no boat to cross the river.  While we wait for over an hour we watch the local boys jumping in the river and fishing with weighted nets and quietly stew in the sun. Finally the boat arrives and we are off to the elephants via a muddy track to begin our elephant ride. Having not seen an elephant face to face before it was quite an experience.  We waited for a few moments while the elephants returned with their previous riders.  The elephants appeared quite silently through the jungle.  They were backed up to a large platform where the riders disembarked and we clambered on.  We sat on a seat attached to a bridle on the elephants back. It was a gentle ride - the mahout guided the elephant through the jungle with short verbal commands. The ride was slow with an irregular sway - very peaceful.  Every now and again the elephants asserted themselves by heading off to explore for food. We rode them for about an hour.  On our return we fed them bananas, took photos then it was off to the boat once again.  More troubles - no boat again despite our guide's assurance. After a wait our guide decided to take us through the jungle on a muddy and overgrown path he knew to another boat landing closer to the elephant lodge. Finally a boat arrived to pick us up - off to lunch at the elephant lodge. After lunch we were taken by boat up the Nam Khan river for a visit at a magnificent Tad Se waterfall for a much needed swim in the cold water of the falls.  Back to the boat and down the river to the lodge for the journey back to our hotel.  Our half day trip had been a whole day and great value. Had dinner with our friends, from the Mekong cruise, at Tum Tum Cheng and booked our cooking class for the next day. then off for a long sleep!

a last lunch and Beer Lao by the banks of the Mekong

Feed the elephant a banana Carol
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Friday we were up early to have our cooking class.  Caught a tuktuk downtown and had a coffee at the restaurant while we waited for the chef to arrive.  9:10am we were informed that the chef had been out at a party for the opening of a new establishment the night before and had had an 'accident' and couldn't make it for the lesson.  Our claims that he had a hangover were not refuted! Some things about chefs do not change! At a loose end we wandered about town for a while, visited the internet cafe, had a wonderful Lao massage and sat down by the river watching the world go by. Had an afternoon siesta after visiting a huge wat near the restaurant - in the evening wandered into town for dinner then off for an early night ready for our overnight stay at the Kuang Xi waterfall - our respite before heading off for Ha Noi on Sunday.

After a leisurely breakfast its off to Kuang Xi waterfall and our homestay, another couple travel with us. A half hour drive through the countryside, sometimes along the bank of the Mekong, then through a small village brings us to our guest house Vanvisa 2. We have to cross a small bridge to reach the guesthouse which is very basic, a bed with mosquito net, small shower and toilet adjoining and cold water only. Down by the river is a shelter where we are to have our meals, there are hammocks there as well. After a while we realise that lunch is not provided so we walk up to the end of the road where you walk to the falls and discover a stall selling pancakes just like those we had in Chiang Rai, a pancake each, some bananas and the obligatory by now Beer Lao sees lunch over. We spend the afternoon lazing in the hammocks, reading a book and generally doing nothing. It is still very hot in the afternoon. Tea is served, a mixture of "traditional" Lao dishes, how traditional we are about to find out! One dish is a bit of a mystery and I think it maybe fish because of the strange bones but the Lao girfriend of the other two there informs us it is frog! Carol doesn't eat it but I finish mine, its not too bad at all. The only thing is that they don't just serve up the legs but the whole frog. Carol can't take the head that appears out of her bowl. Tea and surprises over we head off to bed.

We get up early and I head off to the Waterfall by 6:30am and I am the only person there, quite a serene and peaceful time. The waterfalls are absolutely great about 100m high in total and in full flow. Its a great chance to get some photos without interference from other people. After breakfast and a long wait for the other couple who have slept in we head back to Luang Prahbang for a last look around. We finish off our Museum visit, underwhelmed by the photography exhibition of monks meditating, then have a last lunch and Beer Lao by the banks of the Mekong. Back to the hotel, collect our bags and head for the airport. Carol can't wait to get on the plane and we are soon winging our way to Hanoi on Lao Airlines, the flight is fine.

We arrive in Hanoi on Vietnam's National Day, the traffic is chaotic, thankfully we have been met and taken to our hotel, we find out we have been moved so a taxi is organised to take us. After checking in at Hang Noc 2 (instead of 3) we go downstairs to the tour meeting which has already started. Am I in for a shock!!!!! Including our Tour Leader there are 13 people, of the 13 I am the only MALE. I am going to be travelling with twelve women for three weeks! Off to bed we go, tomorrow is another day.