Poland: Zakopane

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Monday 12th June

Off to the mountains again. This time to Zakopane in the Tatra mountains on the southern border of Poland and Slovakia. All our hostel mates had decided to join us and we made our way to the bus station for the 2hr trip. About an hour outside Zakopane we were treated to the wonderful sight of the high Tatra mountains blanketed in snow. What a treat as we haven't seen any really high mountains since we left home. The road approaching Zakopane is bumper to bumper with guest houses and B+B's. A real tourist mecca as this area is a very popular ski resort in winter and a hiking area in summer. The 7 of us tracked down the campsite and secured an excellent double storey bungalow. At a very cheap price. It's situated at the foot of 2 huge ski jump ramps and the ski lifts, so I imagine this place must really buzz in winter. We all took an exploratory walk into the village and discovered a place overun by humanity!! And this isn't even high season yet! People aside, the village is very beautiful set against the backdrop of the snow covered mountain peaks. It reminds me of the quaint villages up in the Swiss Alps. As we planned our hike route for tomorrow, the rain started to come down!! Can you believe it, as it had been a gloriously sunny day today.

Snow in July

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Tuesday 13th June

No rain. In fact the day dawned as the best we've had yet. We packed up all our hiking gear and warm clothing and set out to the trailhead, which started at the bottom of the mountain cableway. The weather charts there said it was only 4 degrees C up top!! It took us about 10 minutes to find the actual path but when we discovered it, we followed an exceptionally well marked track up to the first of numerous viewpoints, which are also the spots where there are either ski lifts or apres-ski party chalets!! From the beginning we walked upwards through some stunning Polish mountain countryside with the Tatras high overhead and covered in snow. We were en route to the top of one particular peak which is the high border between Poland and Slovakia - at 2005meters. After the relatively easy path of the lower foothills were past us, we found the route took up up a stunning, narrow valley right up against the snow covered rockfaces. Higher up we were in the snow for most of the way and it was pretty slippery in places. The going was tiring especially as you had to prevent yourself from sliding in the snow and in parts the path had become a waterfall of snow melt. We eventually clambered up onto a saddle between the highest peak in the area and the peak we were heading for. When we looked up towards our chosen route, I did a double take!! It was a narrow ridge, steep drops on either side, covered in snow. We ate a well earned lunch and continued up this ridge, feeling a bit nervous, but it looked worse than it actually was. In many sections we were in knee deep snow and our pace upwards was rather slow! But it was so worth every single step. The views around us were indescribable with snowy peaks reaching out for miles and miles beyond. The final part of the ridge became so steep and trudging through the soft deep snow was hard work indeed! Eventually we reached the summit and what a rewarding sight greeted us - Slovakia down below on one side - and Poland behind us. It was also very cold up here with a really mean wind blowing. We took some obligatory pics but couldn't sit around too long as we were starting to freeze. The route down, along another ridge opposite to where we'd ascended, was just as difficult as the steepness made you want to just sit down and toboggan down!!! So, why not do just that?? We donned our raincoats, used them as a slippery seat, sat down and just took off down the slope. Yeee....haaaa!!! I felt like I was on a rollercoaster ride as the speed we flew at was pretty scary!! The steep slope went on and on but finally we ended back in the valley where there wasn't anymore incline to gather speed. Looking back up the steep slope we could see the route we'd taken! So far up!! It had taken us hours to slog up this mountain but only 15 minutes to get down! We were soaking wet at the end but at least the sun was out, and hot, to dry us off a bit. By this time we'd been on the mountain for 7 hours and still had to walk back to our campsite, another 2/3kms. Walking in wet clothes and boots wasn't the most pleasant but a hot shower at the end  worked wonders. We told our fellow camper friends of our day and now they want to do the "tobogganing experience" too! The day after tomorrow we've planned to go again, weather depending, except this time we will take the cable car up to the top, walk along the ridge to the down route and hit the snow again on our bums!! What fun!!

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Wednesday 14th June

A lazy day after our hiking of yesterday as admittedly the shoulder and leg muscles are feeling rather tender. In the evening we went to a local pub to watch Poland and Germany playing in the soccer world cup. Poland lost. Afterward we returned to the campsite, with the Polish people we'd been with, and a party started in our bungalow!! Loads of beer and vodka but I just wasn't in the mood. All I wanted to do was sleep but it's impossible when 15/16 inebriated people have hijacked your cabin!!

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Thursday 15th June

Another lazy day. We were supposed to go up the mountain and do our toboganning thing but most people were totally hungover!! Me and David took a short walk to the winter ski jumps and came back to just chill out.

Friday 16th June

Up early and we even managed to get the rest of the mob up too, to go up the cablecar, walk along the ridge which is the border between Poland and Slovakia, and then to our tobogganing valley!! The cablecar ride is in 2 sections and the 2nd part especially has incredible views of the mountains. Up top we found our route along the redge and the estimated 1 and a half hour walk took close to 2 and a half hours, as the terrain was pretty steep in parts and also very slippery with melting snow. For a small section we were totally on the Slovakian side of the ridge with a giddy drop down to the valley below. A bit hairy in the slippery conditions but not unsafe. Eventually we reached the valley where we'd planned to toboggan down but during the past 2 days since our first experience, a hellava lot of snow had disappeared. There was still enough to slide down and the first sections was super steep and the speeds we picked up was adrenalin stuff!! Excellent fun. We took about 20 minutes to get down instead of 1hr by normal walking. I've never snow skiied before but if this little taste of snow adventure is anyghing to go by, then I reckon I'd love to learn to ski properly. The day ended with 6 very exhausted and soaking wet bodies making their way back to the cablecar station [we'd in effect done a circular route]. The ales were waiting in the fridge back at the campsite and how welcome they were. A great way to end our time in Zakopane and the Tatra mountains as we leave tomorrow for Warsaw.