from traveller hell to peaceful paradise

the river at Phatang resort
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So after another sleepless night, Bea and I again walk around Vientianne comatose. I think I will need to revisit the city and see it when not sleepwalking... we book ourselves to Vang Vieng - supposedly a traveller haven in Lao where everything stops at 10pm. We arrive late at night after a hilarious bus ride where most of the bus is filled with Beer Lao - delicious local beer, and then people sitting on the beer lao. In order to go for a pee, we have to climb out of the window. very funny. once I am off the bus, I realise my purse is gone, so an obliging young man gives me a lift on his motorbike and we chase the bus that has already left and finally  2 village later we catch up with it and manage to flag it down, where upon I have to clamber over the beer lao and the people sitting on said beer lao, to discover that purse is nowhere to be seen. bum.

Bea delightedly taking photos of caterpillas
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Vang Vieng may be traveller haven for some - if endless lines of cafes that look like bomb shelters is your style of decor, and reclining and watching the simpsons or friends is your choice of evening entertainment.  Maybe I was being a bit of a boring older traveller but the whole thing seemed really tedious to me so instead, Bea and I moved to a really amazing place about 10 minutes up the road. A beautiful set of rooms that seemed like 4* luxury right on the river where for the most part we were alone with Tai,the owner and his family and helper, Morn. It was just bliss. Every evening, Tai and Morn went fishing and it just felt like life was as timeless and constant as the flowing river in front of us.

as timeless as the river flowing in front of us

my favorite reading spot
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Having done a cookery course in Cambodia, I got very excited and offered to cook for everyone. so one morning  Morn and I go to the market and pick up provisions - I was going to make amok - delicious coconut curry where I get to make coconut milk myself! I think they thought I was a bit weird at first - Bea included! But it was a hoot. I much prefer hanging out in the kitchen to front of house anyway and was in my element! hilariously by the time it came to it, there were a couple more guests at the place so I fed everyone a little. It made such a difference because we didnt just feel like paying guests, which was really lovely. And for me it was great to be cooking again!