A Whistlestop Tour of the Lake District

Kirkstone Pass, Lake District, Cumbria
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This was the day of the long, long drive. Dad has risen to the challenge of seeing as much of the Lake District as possible. Apparently the plan was to visit as many of the lakes as possible during a single day. The route turned out to be so complicated that I had to write it down, so that I could keep track of where we had been and where we were due to go.

We started by following the Eastern side of Windermere until we branched off up the A592 which took us up into the mountains, through the Kirkstone Pass. We stopped whenever we could; including a lovely spot where I had to climb over a style and paddle across a small beck. There wasn’t really a good reason for doing this except I had the right boots, so I could! Actually it was a great spot for taking photographs. I was delighted to be able to visit such a wonderful, wild place – even if it was only by car.

Apparently the plan was to visit as many of the lakes as possible during a single day.

Kirkstone Pass, Lake District, Cumbria
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Finally we reached our first (new) lake of the day – Brothers’ Water. It was only a baby, barely a tarn, but it was surrounded by some stunning mountains. It was a bit of a walk down to the water, but I had to do it. I had already paddled in Coniston Water and Windermere (even if I was still wearing my boots) so I had to do the same here as well.

Brother’s Water was just a puddle compared with our next Lake – Ullswater. We stopped again so that I could go for my now obligatory paddle – proof that we had actually reached it and again I took as many pictures as I could. These other lakes make Windermere look like a boating pond. I much prefer these wild and peaceful places.

The Brother's Water, Lake District, Cumbria
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Halfway down Ullswater we reached the wonderful Aira Force (or waterfall). It was a National Trust site (so nothing to pay) and came with a splendid tea shop. Mum couldn’t walk all the way to the waterfall, so we left her sitting beside the river, watching a family of nuthatches and hoping that she might spot a dipper bobbing about in the river.

Dad and I split up, taking different routes through the valley to the waterfall. My plan was to end up at the bottom of it because that would make the best photographs and indeed it did. But the route was roughly circular, so we eventually crossed paths anyway. I had just climbed up to the bridge above the falls when I spotted Dad heading down to the bottom of it. No amount of shouting could attract his attention but luckily my route took me back down to where he was. He was already pretty shattered so I comforted him with the news he had one big climb to come and then it was downhill all the way!

View from Ullswater, Lake District, Cumbria
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Afterwards we collected Mum (who was sulking because she hadn’t seen a dipper) and headed for the National Trust tea shop. It would have been a wonderful spot on a hot sunny day, but we took shelter inside from the alarmingly strong wind. We had a lovely lunch break and then we were off again in search of more new lakes.

We had quite a long drive to get to Bassenthwaite Lake (and yes this is the only true lake in the Lake District). Sadly we didn’t see the ospreys that were nesting nearby but I did get to spend a few minutes down on the shore (and a paddle) before we headed off again.

Aira Force (waterfall), near Ullswater, Lake District, Cumbria
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The rest of the trip turned into a series of quick camera stops and sadly the other lakes were only glimpsed as we passed by. Crummock Water, Buttermere, Derwent Water, Thirlmere, Grasmere and Rydal Water all briefly sparkled as we tore past. I even saw my very first Tarn – Yew Tree Tarn, or at least that’s what I think it was.

We did discover another gem of a pass – Honister – that had to be admired. It was another wild place calling you onward and upwards, if only it had been better weather!