Ports of Call Between Singapore and Athens, Greece

SIngapore:

Kathy, Phyllis and I hired a taxi to go to Federal Express in Singapore specifically to ship packages home so that we did not have to cart around extra weight from our purchases in Bangkok. We then decided to go to the Raffles Hotel to see the old "Grand Dame" from the British Colonial days. The hotel is world class and, although we swore we would not shop any more, we could not resist checking out what the shopping area had to offer. I am glad to say that the prices were prohibitive, so we drowned our sorrows at the Raffles Long Bar on Singapore Slings (the actual location where the drink was first concocted) while following the tradition of eating peanuts and tossing the shells on the bar floor. The bar staff wore sarongs so I felt that I was back at home in Java and Bali which were just a hop, skip and jump away across the China Sea from us. We then took a quick trip to Orchard Road, THE shopping mecca of all shopping meccas, because Phyllis had something that she was searching for and had not yet found during the cruise. After three leads led to a dead end and we were dead tired, we headed back towards the ship and enjoyed watching the pristine city with its architecturally brilliant skyline and tree-lined streets fly by. At the harbor, you have to wade through another shopping mall to get to the ship, and at one last shop, at the eleventh hour, Phyllis found her much sought-after item!!! Success!!!

Kuala Lumpur:

I figured that this will be my one chance to set foot in Malaysia so Kathy and I started her birthday celebration off by taking a 1.5 hour bus ride from the ship into Kuala Lumpur to visit the capital and see the locals. The drive into the city was on roller-coaster roads through mangrove forests, stands of oil palm trees and wetlands with little evidence of population density. The guide on the bus, hired by Oceana, told us about Malaysia. There are still seven sultans in Malaysia and they rotate holding the position of King every five years so that no one party or "state" gains undue power. Malaysia is not as populated as are their neighbors, Indonesia and Thailand. But they have an immigration problem because their borders are not watched and many rural Burmese, Thai, Vietnamese and Indonesians enter the country for work. That was also discussed in Indonesia and Singapore so it appears to be a regional (actually world-wide) problem. The average wage in Malaysia is $1000US and real estate has not increased exponentially there, so opportunities for real estate are still to be found there. This could change, as it certainly has for Bali, but tourism has been a focus for the government for only the past ten years. The legal population is comprised mostly of Malaysians, Chinese, and East Indians. The predominant religions practiced are Islam and Buddhism but there are also are Christians and other religions represented as well. One of Malaysia's main products is rubber which is utilized for making latex and other substances, so there are many rubber plantations in Malaysia, but we did not see any on the ride into the city.

Kuala Lumpur has an interesting skyline, the most famous sight being the Petronas Twin Towers with adjoining bridge. It is a smallish city and it did not have the "developed" feel of other cities we have visited. Kathy and I planned what we wanted to do for the four hours that we had in town and we ended up sharing a taxi with a couple who were going to the same "craft market" as us. There are several large shopping malls in the city so it also appears to be a shopping mecca and the prices are reasonable. We had a good time watching people and snooping around the colorful streets, but we had the most fun interacting to two clothing shop owners. We tried on tons of saris and pareos and jackets and pullovers, all mostly made of silk. The two women were a hoot and let us just throw the rejects on the floor. It urns out that they and/or their family opwn several stores in the market and the stronger of the two women asked me if I wanted to be her business partner in the US and open a store fore her. I told her "only if I get to travel and have time off when buying" and she went for it. Hmmmm, new career? We also spent a bit more  time buying crafts items during the short time that we had in Kuala Lumpur, but nthe visit was brief.

When we got back on ship, Phyllis had set up a birthday party for Kathy so three very fun Australians with whom Kathy plays ship-sponsored "trivia" and with whom we have had dinner twice before, a couple and the woman's charming mother, joined us for drinks in my cabin and then we had dinner in the wonderful restaurant "Toscana" as a group for the second time in a week. The ship's pastry chef had made a beautiful "tiramisu-like" cake in her honor, the maitre d' made a crown out of a dinner napkin which she wore, and the staff and everyone left in the restaurant sang her Happy Birthday. As you can see, it is a quiet, boring group!

We will be at sea for the next four days and then we go into port at Mangalore, India. I think I will pass on this excursion so I will not have anything to report for the next week or so. In that time, I hope to read and create some art if I can gain access to a scanner, so you will next hear from me after I disembark in Mumbai for a half day tour. I decided to visit Mumbai again since my brief encounter with Mumbai on the first day of my India trip was spent on an unfocused drive around the city with my new roommate and we barely scratched the surface of the enormity of the place. You cannot avoid sensory overload in Mumbai so I want to jump back in and get more of it into my pores after twelve days of organized calm aboard ship.

Goa:

We ventured into Panjim City, the capital of Goa, to visit an ancient Catholic church which is a World Heritage site, see the countryside, shop and have lunch. We bought Indian clothes and had a scrumptious Indian luncheon at a restaurant in town that was recommended by one of the stewards on ship by the name of Churchill since it is his home town. Goa has much agriculture, mostly the growing of papayas, bananas, cashews and coconut palms. The half day drive was lovely and we made some good purchases.

Mumbai:

I forgot to write about my second visit to Mumbai!!! We hired a taxi driver who took us from the ship to the famous Jain Temple in Bombay which was an absolutely beautiful visit, surrounded by people who are so respective of life that they may tape their mouths shut so that they may not accidently swallow an insect. The atmosphere, or energy is a better word, in the temple was really something to feel, brief as it was. Then we went to visit the Hanging Gardens, the main garden/park in Bombay. It is a misnomer because there are no actual hanging plants. The garden is constructed over the main water reservoir in Bombay which is why it is called "hanging". The gardens were lovely and there were many whimsical topiaries, and people were playing tag and having picnics on the grass. It was really hot so we then went on to visit Gandhi's home and museum. To see where he lived, sit in his library and see the books that he read, read his correspondence, and view the dioramas that depicted his life of nonviolent social protest was really very special. We ate at a restaurant that was recommended by someone on board ship and it was delicious. It was one of a chain of Indian fast food also found in Dubai, and it was very fresh and clean and inexpensive. Our last stop was at the famous Thieve's Market which is known for antiques and other specialties. Our taxi driver misunderstood where we wanted to go so he took us to the Fish Market in port which was a real eye opener, with women carrying baskets of fish on their heads and the place definitely smelled of fish. When he learned that we wanted to go to Thieve's Market, he laughed and said he wondered why we had wanted to go there, and then headed us back in the right direction. We expected an enclosed building but it was actually part of the moslem section of Mumbai, with narrow packed streets of shops and restaurants and vendors. The antiques were rusted tools, dusty glass, and flea market finds but you could probably find anything that you needed there if you had the stamina to search it out. We only stayed about an hour before heading back to the ship due to the "sea of humanity" aspect of the place, so we did not cover 1/10th of the market. Mumbai is a must see if you visit India but I would not call it a "destination.

Oman:

We got off ship in Salalah, Oman, for some more shopping (our "mantra" now) to buy frankincense and to visit Job's tomb up in the mountains. We learned that Frankincense and Mirrh are both "pitch" from trees. Frankinsence is burned as incense and is used for medicinal purposes. Mirrh has more limited uses (you do not ingest it) but it ocsts more because it is more limited in supply as well. There are only 2.5 million people living in Oman, the last true Sultanate on the planet, and I have to say that we saw more camels than we did people. It is a very dry, beige/white landscape and we were taken to see one Frankincense tree because most of the trees are up in the hills to the north, closer to where Oman's oil fields are located .The main products in Oman seem to be oil, frankincense and limestone, and the terrain is all desert with scraggly acacia trees, but the beaches are lovely and for the most part deserted. We learned that Oman is a destination for people from other Arab countries during the hot season, but it is not very developed.

Red Sea:

Last night, we passed the country of Yemen to the east and Africa to the west and the ship is now in the Red Sea. We can see the coast of Somalia in the distance on one side and have just gone through narrow straights into the Red Sea. There are tons of silver fish jumping out of the ocean and I have heard that there have been many dolphin sightings. We will hug the Yemen then Egyptian eastern coastline because significant pirating activities are still a serious problem (especially in the Straits of Malacca between Singapore and Sumatra,and along the coast of Somalia into the Aden Sea and Red Seas). Cruise ship lines have discontinued their offerings down the eastern African coast because of this. In fact, while we were in the Red Sea, a container ship just behind us was highjacked by pirates. Along the Straits of Malacca and near Somalia, they seize the ships both for cargo and for ransom of the ship's staff, but pirating activity in the Red Sea is committed more for ransoms. A speaker on the ship gave an entire talk in Pirating and I sat next to a Cargo Ship Chief Engineer from Gdansk, Poland, who had been at the bad end of the ransom stick on more than one occasion...very scary and really interesting!

Three Intense Days in a Row-

Egypt-Luxor via Safaga:

Our two days on the east bank of the Nile in the temples created for worship of the Gods and on the west bank of the Nile in the burial tombs of the Pharoahs in the Valley of the Kings near Luxor (Thebes), Egypt, were awesome. Equally stunning was seeing the open desert countryside and villages between Safaga, where our ship moored, and the areas around Luxor and the east bank of the Nile. The drive was 3.5 hours each way so our tour guide spent time educating us about the history of the region, the life of Bedouins, the Egyptian culture and traditions. The main minerals found in Egypt are phosphate, magnesium, and bauxite. The main agricultural products are sugar cane, rice, date palm and olives, goats and sheep. Social law is based upon the Koran and civil law is Napoleonic. Most Egyptians are Muslim, but habits and customs vary between tribes and regions and people from different regions have different accents. There are 2 million Bedouins in Egypt. The traditions and community structure for carrying out social law varies significantly between urban areas and the Bedouin communities. In Bedouin society, each community has a Council of Men who handles all disputes, marital issues, etc. it is tradition for a girl to marry at 14. By 18, you are considered old and would be suitable as a second wife only. Bedouin women wear black top dresses with colorful dresses underneath. Men wear long tunics with mandarin colors, mostly in neutral earth tones and slide sandals. Tradition allows for a man to marry a second wife if the first does not produce a male child but divorce is unheard of.

Measures have been taken in Egypt to deter attempts of violence against tourists in response to an episode that occurred several years ago. As a result, we drove in a huge convoy of buses and passenger vans of at least thirty-forty vehicles. Cross traffic was stopped at all bridges along the Nile to allow our convoy through and there were armed men on the ground at each location. Each bus had an armed security guard on board also as a deterrent. Our guard, by the name of Ahmed, was young and gentle. I sat behind him on the bus so we joked around a bit. He had a fully automatic gun with a large clip on his right hip. The presence of armed, uniformed tourism security guards throughout the region was fairly significant but there was no apparent tension present, only a sense that great care was being taken to ensure the safety of guests.

On the east bank, we visited ancient Thebes (a World Heritage site) and the Temples of Karnak and Luxor. it was really something to stand at the base of a massive column or statue carved in hieroglyphics and figures in a temple that is 3,000 years old and try to imagine what life was like at that time. The feelings I had were similar to what I experienced while in Ephesus and also at the Taj Mahal- awe and wonder at the immensity and complexity of the human spirit being expressed through art and thought.

On the west bank, we visited several tombs of the Pharaohs including those of King Tut, Queen Hatshepsut, Ramses II and III. We also spent time in the Medinet Habu Temple which I had never heard of, but the temple is really well preserved and worthwhile to visit. To walk through the sandstone canyons and descend into the tombs of ancient pharaohs and witness the efforts of thousands of laborers and artisans in carvings, and gold and red ochre and lapis paintings, view Tutankhamen mummy and sarcophagus, and the burial chambers of Ramses II, Ramses III, and others was both stunning and eerie.

Both days were very hot but the air was dry, unlike the humid days we spent on shore in Southeast Asia and India. We also attended a Sound and Light Show at the Karnak Temple after dinner our one night in Luxor and the air was warm with a soft breeze. Egyptian food is very good and varied. We had all sorts of good vegetable salads and lamb was served everywhere.

Jordan:

Petra:

Our day to and from Aqaba, Jordan (at the tip of the Gulf of Aqaba near Elat, Israel) to Petra-Wadi Mousa and Wadi Rum in the deep desert was superb and almost defies description. We had a wonderful tour guide by the name of Alef who spoke a great deal about Jordanian customs and Islam relative to his experience working as an expatriate business man around the globe over a period of twenty years and it was very interesting. He has his own business now as a general contractor and does tours only once in a while.

Jordan is a sea of sand and sandstone interspersed with low granitic mountains, somewhat similar to Egypt. And in the desert of both countries, you have rare sights of Bedouins herding their goats and sheep in search of food in the sand. However, Jordan has practically no water so it was mostly topographically varied desert with low lying vegetation, in contrast to Egypt with its harsh desert but fertile Nile delta.

Visiting Petra, a World Heritage site, was a life-long dream come true. Before the beginning of the walk into Petra, you have an opportunity to shop for Jordanian souvenirs and hire a means to transport you to the bottom of the canyon. Gorgeous men in head scarves competed for your attention with their camels, horses and carriages waiting to take you into the monument. The 45 minute walk/approach through a wind and water-sculpted channel of sandstone was reminiscent of hiking through side canyons in the Grand Canyon in Colorado, but only as to nature's sculpting of rock. The echoes of man's handiwork were evident in the hydrology-engineered channels and dams, and seven sacred "stations" carved in the stone walls leading to the Treasury where the channel bursts open into a large, canyoned valley community. The atmosphere shifts radically from a quiet nature walk interrupted by charging chariots to one of souk or bedouin market or carnival with men competing for tourists' attention and coffee shops available at every turn that offer shade and refreshment. The shear size of the monuments is overwhelming. The Treasury is by far the most spectacular of the structures with its facade of intricate stonework and its single interior room lined in an exquisitely colored patterning of sandstone. From there, the wide canyon corridor then slopes down and around bends past colorfully saddled camels and horses to open up to other structures built into the walls, an amphitheater, caves, hilled promontories, and manned replicas of Bedouin camps with tents, wells, and hearths that provide a glimpse into the communities of the past. Petra covers a large area of land, so if at all possible, I would recommend visiting it over the course of a few days. I also heard that from many of our fellow travelers, so it is not just based upon my view. We had about 4 hours to hike in and out and cover the site and that does not allow for stops, reflection, or in-depth exploration. There is a superb 5 star hotel in Wadi Moussa at the mouth of the entrance to Petra called Movenpick. It is pricey but the lunch was fabulous, the decor beautiful and the comfort high.

Wadi Rum:

Before this trip, I had never heard of Wadi Rum. But after our group experience there, it deserves a write-up of its own. I think this experience rates number one out of all of the things that I did on this trip. Many participants on the Petra-Wadi Rum tour felt that this day was one of the most memorable of their lifetime. Here is the other half of the reason why. Our buses looped back from Petra in the desert towards Aqaba and then turned off the main north-south highway that runs the length of Jordan into the progressively deeper red sand desert area of Wadi Rum. It rains about 2.5 inches of rain per year in this region but we rode in rain for over a half hour which was amazing in and of itself. As we were driving towards Wadi Rum, many of the hills and lower mountains were obscured by sandstorms despite the rain, so we were warned to prepare for the evening by bringing scarves for our heads in protection against the wind and sand. We were expecting to be met by 4x4 four-wheel drive jeep-like cars. What we ended up being met with were bald tired, hot-wired pick up trucks with caged benches built into the beds. Each truck accommodated 6 people plus driver. We all had to climb in and out of the beds of the trucks over the gates. When all trucks were filled, the caravan took off through "town" and into the red desert with soft ruts as lanes. We zig-zagged and bronco-rode through mountain promontories up and over tomato-red sand dunes, each truck taking a different path so that sand did not blow into everyone's faces. As it was, we were all bundled up like Bedouins and have the photos to prove it. The wild ride lead us to a cleft in a rock formation that formed a narrow canyon with ledges that had been inscribed with petroglyphs over thousands of years. It was very cool.

We then hopped back into our now-trusty steads (after jump starting several of them) to be taken to a Bedouin encampment, tourist style. Nine or 10 long Bedouin tents were pieced together in a u-shape around a central courtyard. The floor of the courtyard nearest the center arm of the "u" was covered in carpets and rows of serving tables were set up beyond the carpets leading out into the desert. Within each tent were tables lined with mattresses covered in Bedouin rugs. A strolling band of natively-dressed, gorgeous young musicians from Amman played Jordanian bagpipes, drums, and other instruments while singing, dancing and encouraging the guests to join in. The Jordanian wine (appellation Mount Nebo - and what do I know? Moses was said to have looked down over Canaan, the Promised Land, from Mt. Nebo AND it is thought that the Ark of the Covenant is buried there-how about them apples?) flowed and so did the guests. Once the young band got everyone dancing and juiced, another more classical group began to perform. They played un-fretted lute, canyon (a 26 stringed instrument like a zither) and drums while we started to serve up our side dishes and the main course was "unveiled". Two large pits had been dug in the sand and lined with rugs or other heavy fabric. Fires were built in each pit and each was filled with a layered metal structure in which lamb or chicken was cooked for 6 hours. To "unveil" they had to remove the sand layer from the fabric over the tops of the pits with shovels. The food was out of this world. They probably served 15 types of vegetable salads, they made on-the-spot baked fresh, hand thrown Bedouin flat bread similar to a tortilla over a gas-fried metal concave drum to scoop up the babaganoush and hummus, and their desserts were amazing concoctions of pistachios, honey, batter, puddings, etc. I cannot begin to describe the distinct variety in flavors. I wish I could have had recipes for every single thing that I tried. After we finished dinner, a belly dancer came out and started to dance to recorded Arabic music on the dance floor (the carpets). By the end of the evening, guests were dancing with the young truck drivers and musicians and all arms were in the air, illuminated by firelight, all to the same rhythm. How can it get any better than that? We "flew" back in our trucks to our buses across the darkened red desert feeling a lot looser and a lot more grateful and connected as one than we when we had started out early that morning.

Suez Canal:

Yesterday afternoon, we left the Red Sea to enter the Suez Canal and all of the sea worthy large ships are now cruising in closer proximity as they reduce their speed to 9 knots (we have been averaging 20 knots throughout most of the trip). Last night, a Gala stage performance was presented by all of the on board artists (singers, stringed quartets, full bands, pianists, and some performers from the staff!!!) and then a Salute was made to the ship's staff. It is the only "show" that I have attended. All of the staff entered the main lounge in their uniforms (chefs, stewards, bartenders, housekeepers, shop keepers, medical staff, crew, engineering staff, etc). There are 1.6 guests to every staff member and there are 685 guests so the ship has had over a 1,000 people on board for almost 35 days. Initially, we watched Egypt pass us on the left and Saudi Arabia on the right, but now it is Egypt on both sides as we pass the Sinai Peninsula and the Canal narrows. The contrast of the banks of the Canal between the west and east is stark. The west is built up and has vegetation. The left is open sand dunes sculpted by truck tires.Tonight, we arrive at Port Said and tomorrow we have a very early day, disembarking at 3am in order to visit the Sphinx and pyramids. From there, we have one or two more days at sea and the cruise ends. What an adventure it has been!!!

Cairo and Giza, Egypt:

While traveling through the Suez Canal, we passed by Somalia and Ethiopia to the west before reaching Egypt and by Yemen and Saudi Arabia and the Sinai Peninsula to the east before reaching Port Said, Egypt. Port Said, Egypt is in Africa on the west bank of the canal and Port Faud, Egypt is in Asia to the east at the mouth of the Suez Canal as it flows into the Mediterranean Sea. Egypt purchased the eastern banks of the canal from Saudi Arabia in trade for land with oil as a strategic move to control the canal and as a result, collect huge taxes for the maritime traffic. Someone said that Egypt collects $1 million dollars a day from the ship traffic. We passed many farms along the canal before cutting inland towards Cairo. One distinct feature that you see on farms and in the yards of private homes are pigeon cotes, tall beehive-shaped conical structures with holes and wooden perches. Egyptians enjoy raising them both for sport and food.

Our visit to the Pyramids (World Heritage sites)and Sphinx in Giza was surprising in that they are not in open desert as they appear to be in pictures and film. They are surrounded by city development. What was also surprising was that there is a very clear demarcation between the end of the fertile green belt and the beginning of the desert right at the Pyramids. The Nile used to flow by the Pyramids but now cannot be seen from their vantage point. We had to get up at 3 am because all but 50 guests were leaving the ship to visit Giza. We left port around 5:30 am once the bus and van convoy was released for travel by the police and we were escorted by the Tourist police for 3.5 hours to Cairo where we drove through the downtown area, passed President Mubarek's house compound, the fairgrounds, government buildings, the extensive ancient Muslim cemetery with domed buildings and housing for families visiting ancestral graves for weekends, and visited the Pyramids and tomb at Sakkara which used to house 40 shrines, one for each god for each of the forty original states. The Pharaoh had to hold a festival every thirty years and do special dances for each god within one days time to prove that he could remain Pharaoh.

After lunch at another Movenpick Hotel, also very nice, we crossed the Nile into Giza to go straight to the Pyramids and Sphinx. We were met by throngs of traders with their camels and horses which were available for rides across the dunes or photo ops. Many of us on board ship have kidded around that our mantra from the trip will be "one dollah, one dollah" because we have heard it everywhere we have gone. The vendors can be like flies, so their efforts can get in the way of having a quiet moment to soak in the majesty of the monuments. For the entire trip, I sat behind our bus's security guard, Mustafa, who was probably around 35 years old with wavy black hair and he also had a fully automatic gun on his hip. He took an interest in me, leading me by hand through crowds, taking me through back entrances, taking my picture in several places, and so on. I didn't think much of it but when we got back to the ship and left the bus, Phyllis caught up with me and asked me if we had exchanged addresses? I couldn't figure out what she meant but she said that it was really clear that he was interested in me and she wouldn't have been surprised if i had taken off with him for dinner and the night. I could have been his mother for goodness sake. But it brought a smile to my lips.

We disembarked in Pireaus the following morning and I stayed in Athens for three days. Then, I headed back to Hong Kong for a day of exploration (I am shopped out which I never thought I would say) and Japan for brief visits to temples in Osaka and Kyoto before flying home on May 25th. I must say that if I had my planning to do all over again, I would not take a cruise. I would be on the ground in all of the countries doing land tours to meet with the locals and see the sites through their eyes. That is not to say that I didn't enjoy the cruise. I thoroughly loved travelling with Kathy and Phyllis and a few small groups of very fun people, but it was a culturally and socially isolated form of travel that was jarring to me after being on the ground and in the markets. For anyone desiring a cruise, I highly recommend Oceana AND the Nautica ship in particular, the perfectly sized ship for getting to know your fellow travelers and feeling comfortable with the 5-star facilities. And not having to unpack for over a month was divine. Of course, I have already started planning my next adventure with Africa and South America high on the list but I MUST return to Bali, for I do not think I have ever met nicer people in my life. There are many Balinese men working on the ship which is wonderful. My first night in Athens, I will be going out on the town with my new friend, Gusti, who has been our steward during the cruise. He is a healer and a very gentle, sweet Hindu, and I am looking forward to spending more time with him.

Athens:

Athens was FABULOUS! My hotel was in the perfect location, right below the Acropolis (a World Heritage site) and I had a stunning view of it from my hotel room balcony!  So, I got to drink Ouzo and eat olives while watching the sun set and watching the lights illuminate the Pantheon. Pretty cool! I spent three days wandering around the central part of town and visiting the Archeological Museum which is a must if you go to Athens. The new Acropolis Museum has not opened yet but I went into the building on the ground floor level to see the structure which is complete. The flooring is thick Lucite in many places so that you can walk above the actual archeological digs below which will be part of the museum exhibits when the museum opens next year. I also spent a day taking a trip to Delphi (yet another World Heritage site) and I can see why the ancient Greeks thought that Delphi was the navel of the universe (they also thought that the world was flat-got that wrong too!)! Delphi is located on the side of a gorgeous, deep, long green valley with rolling hills and picturesque hill villages. Delphi was pretty much decimated in 397 BC after a major earthquake so only a few columns and a reconstructed treasury remain standing but there is a good, small museum on site and there is a great deal to see at the monument itself. To be at the location where the Oracle spoke tongues to solve the problems of the world was an awesome feeling! Did I mention that the men are gorgeous here?

Hong Kong:

I lucked out again with a superb view from my hotel room at The Salisbury YMCA right next door to the Peninsula Hotel. I had only one day in Hong Kong and the weather was the pits-foggy and pouring so you could not even see the buildings- but I managed to hit all of the shops that I wanted to see (Alan Fung hand-made leather goods, Shanghai Tang, etc) and I took a ferry trip across the Victoria Harbor to the Hong Kong side to ride up to Victoria Peak for a meal. The view is supposed to be awesome from there, just not that day, but my meal was really good.