Sichuan, JiuZhaiGou 九寨沟

Juizhaiguo is a national nature reserve area, heavily forested and surrounded by snowy peaks. Talking to anyone who has been there, they were tell you a very beautiful place but no one can really tell me how beautiful was it when I ask a few of them who has been there.

Going to Juizhaiguo was a challenge for me, there was no information on the website about this place back then. I did a search on the website before I went for my vacation, the book I've was provided a limited information stated.

Adventure to JiuZhaiGou Park from Chengdu

Most likely, a lot of people went to Chengdu, one of place is to visit Juizhaiguo, China make that place a tourist spot and they do not review much information, they wants you to booked a tour to go there.

When I was staying in the hostel, I did ask the staff where to get the bus, they were tell me this or that bus terminal but not very sure and so on, basically, they want you to book on their tour so that they can earn some commission.

Of cause, if you do not want any trouble, you can easily just book the tour package there, some package does not include the entrance ticket to JuiZhaiGuo Park, the package most likely cover transport, hotel and some meals only, so if you are traveling on a tour package, make sure you ask and check does it cover the JuiZhaiGuo entrance ticket, otherwise, you have to bring extra cash to pay on your own. Carry some cash with you, there is no ATM machine for you to drawn any cash you need.

If you are planning to go there, you are not sure how to go about, you happen to read on my journal, you have come to the right website. Let me share my experience with you and you can decide whether to go on your own or book a tour package to Juizhaiguo.

As I was deciding to go on my own, I went to long distance bus terminal (there are few bus terminals in Chengdu) to find out what bus number to go and what time the bus operate.

I slept early the night before but I woke up late as my alarm clock does not ring, I quickly pack my bag and get ready to check out, without breakfast I run with my heavy bag to the bus terminal, it was about 20 minutes run over to catch a 8am bus to Jiuzhaigou.

As I was reaching the bus terminal, from a distance a way, I saw the bus started to move, I ran faster to catch the bus, as the bus reached the exit of the bus terminal junction, I stopped the bus, the bus driver open the door for me, I asked; “is this the bus going to Jiuzhaigou?” The bus driver said; “Yes, want to go quickly come up, we left one seat only.” Wow… I was so blessed to have one seat left for me, at least my 20 minutes running was not wasted.

I didn't bought the bus ticket in advance (Don't be like me didn't book the ticket in advance.), as I was on board the bus, I bought the bus ticket on the spot. I was seated right hand side last roll at the corner window seat; seated beside me was a big size guy from Fujiang province, he was a businessman taking his break. As usual, I started to talk to him; our journey from Chengdu to JiuZhaiGou was very long hours.

As I was on my own trip not following the tour package, so I've to pay my own transport, meals, hotel and the entrance ticket to JiuZhaiGou. My bus ticket was RMB96 (China currency) one way, two ways bus tickets cost me RMB192 (China currency).

As soon as it was lunchtime after many hours traveling, the bus stopped at one of the stall to have lunch, a few of us were seated at one of the table to have a share lunch dashes, the Fuijiang guy paid for our lunch, I was so blessed to have a free lunch and we carry on our journey to JiuZhaiGou.

When we travel about 8 to 10 hours, the journey was started to be very bumpy as the road have a lot of stones as we heading to JiuZhaiGou road. It was not a proper road path; it was narrow and bumpy throughout the journey about 1 to 2 hours. When we were passing by some of the road, it was under the construction and repairing work, I believe, the road to JiuZhaiGou it will be better next year (2007).

As we getting closer, enter to the town of Jiuzhaigou village, wow….. The outside surrounding scenic was really beautiful, I can’t imagine how it's like inside of Jiuzhaigou national nature reserved area, it must be very beautiful place.

The bus was fully booked, when come to small villages; the local people were started to a light the bus. As for me, I've no idea where I was heading, the Fuijiang guy started to make phone call to someone who has already booked the hotel for him, he was asking me to stay in the same hotel as him as his friend can bring us to the JiuZhaiGou for free. When it arrival at the stop, he (the Fujiang guy) got his bags and went down, he expected me to follow him behind to get down the bus but I didn't.

When he got down the bus, he saw me still seated at the seat, at the window he asked me to get down, I told him I'm not going to stay in the same hotel, too expensive, as he got no choice, the bus moved on. As the bus moved on, the other two Chinese guys were talking about the Fujiang guy been so boastful, he claim his friend has booked for him a five stars hotel but the guys (who has seated the last roll with us) look at the hotel, it wasn't look like five stars, these two guys were also at the lunch table with us, ate a free meal and give such remarks about the person who has paid our meal.

Anyway, as soon as the bus has reached the bus terminal, it was late evening about 8pm already, just a light at the bus terminal near by, there was a hotel, everyone from the same bus were all approaching to the same hotel, when a lady asked how much for a room, wow… very expensive, it wasn't a four or five stars hotel, so expensive!!!!

The hotels around, the price should be around RMB80 to RMB300 range or more, it all depends where and which hotels you stay and may be also depend on the season you come.

As I was waiting for my turn to be served, I was second last to be served, as soon as it was my turn, I asked any cheap room available, she told me there was a room, staying a lady with a child, if I don't mind sharing room with them, I can stayed in that room, I asked how much; it was RMB25 per night without toilet attached, without further question asked, immediately I've checked into the room, I think, that's the cheapest I can get if I'm not wrong.

As I was directed to the room, the hotel staff knocks at the door, there was a lady opens the door, and the hotel staff told the lady I'd be sharing room with her. The lady was hopping no one will share room with her and she can own the whole room, unfortunately I'd checked into the room.

When I was entered into the room, I saw her child was sleeping on the other bed, which was the bed I'd be sleeping. The lady quickly asked her child to went over to her side to sleep with her. As for me, after check in, I went out to look for dinner, outside was so cold in the night, had a quick dinner, and quickly went back to hotel.

After had my shower, returned to the room, her child was already at sleep. I thought it was time to go to bed too but somehow my roommate started to share more after a few whispering amount ourselves. She said; she was from Taiwan married her husband in China, husband is a businessman have no time for holiday, she heard about the name JiuZhaiGou, she wants to see so she went there with her child.

She share with me further; she was so disappointed of what she saw the flow of the water was not what she expected, she mention that she will make another trip back to see it again. She didn't have digital camera with her; otherwise, she would be able to show it to me. After a long chat with her, we gets sleepy and we slept.

The next day (23 April'2006), she checkout very early the morning, she was catching the early bus. I was disturbed by her packing noise, so I woke up early to have my breakfast in the room. I stay in the room, reading my book and watch TV program.

At about 10am, I was ready to go out, I was thinking on the word the Taiwan lady had said, I was still deciding whether to go in the JiuZhaiGou park or not, I didn't want to waste my money to go in and get disappointed just like her as the entrance ticket is not cheap, they had just increase the price and heard that they will be increase the price again.

As I went out side, I started walking at one direction, I'd reached Jiuzhaigou park outside, it was so close to the hotel I stayed, looking inside the park from outside, nothing special about it, so I decided not to go in first, I make the decision to explore the villages around.

Walking for many hours, I was walking too far away from my hotel area, felt so hungry so I look for food, had my noodle as lunch, I saw a sign board Internet Café, I looked around where it directed, it was second level, I went up there and seated there for an hour.

On my way back, I had ice-cream, after finished my ice-cream, I was still walking, my leg really very tired, no choice, I hire a taxi to brought me back to hotel, it was too far away the distance for me to walk back, the taxi driver was a lady, she was amazing on the distance I've walked, so many miles away from my hotel to went over there.

Anyway, I went to my hotel room, take a rest for a while, had my tea in the room, relaxing, thinking and hoping that no one will check in to share room with me, as soon as I'd thought of that, someone knock at my door, I opened it, it was a Guangzhou young lady who has check into my room.

Well, talking to her, I've found out she has just came back from the park, I asked; “you mean there is place to stay in side the park?” She said; “Yes, make sure you don't get caught by them.” She has show me her photos taken from her digital camera, wow…I was glad to room with her, from her photos, I tell myself I must go in, since I've came all the way there it will be a waste of money if I paid so much bus fare just to see outside of the park.

After talking a while, we felt hungry, we went dinner together, went back to our room after dinner. As she needs to catch the early bus next day and I was going to JiuZhaiGou Park the next early morning, so we need to get shower and catch sleep.

As the share shower rooms were outside, we both got our toiletries and went shower, that night, don't know what happen, the hot shower doesn't work, we waited some time for the water to run and yet there was no hot water, with no choice, we wrapped ourselves with towel and approaching the hotel staff.

It was so embarrassing for both of us worn our towel running about looking for the hotel staffs to resolve the hot shower problem. Finally, one of the hotel lady staff boiling hot water for us to shower, as I let my roommate had the hot water to shower first, so I've to wait for the next boiling water to gets boil, standing inside the staff's room waiting for the boiling water, it was so embarrassing when the hotel guess approaching the hotel staff, a few of them saw me having my towel wrapped only, I feel like finding a hole to hide my head in.

After waited for a few minutes, feeling cold without clothes on, accept my towel around me, I tell myself to go shower, since I was already feeling cold and the water was cold, do it fast and it should be alright, I told the hotel staff never mind about the boiling water, immediately I ran back to the toilet and had a quick cold shower…. Oh men, very cold!!!

Well, I don't know whether other hotels do happen the same or just the hotel I stay have this problem.

Next day (24 April'2006), the Guangzhou lady check out early and I get ready to go to the JiuZhaiGou Park, have my quick breakfast in the room and depart the room.

In the morning, outside a bit cold, so I walk slowly to the park with both my hands kept inside my pocket to keep it warm.

At the entrance, bought the entrance ticket (RMB235 China currency), got my ticket I look at it, it shows the entrance fees is RMB145 and bus transport is at RMB90, so total make up is RMB235. If you don't take their transport, most likely you may not cover all in one day by walking. It is possible to walk if you can walk a bit faster and take less time to take photos.

Well, even I pay for the transport, most of my time spent inside was walking, only there are place that a bit far off, I'll just hop on the bus from point to point.

When the bus arrival at the first point, everyone a light the bus and gets very excited to see the surrounding view. You can see everyone brought their camera out, pictures snapping here and there, one by one they take turn to take photos for one another.

I should had gone in much early to avoid these tour groups, I was not aware of the time they open, otherwise, I'll go in much early in the morning. To avoiding the people, I take my own sweet time to take photos, no one was with me, so I try to take personal photo of myself by looking for place to put my camera and set self-timer, if you are alone, you don’t have to worry no personal photo taken inside the JuiZhaiGou park.

At the first point only, I spent too much time taking photos, just I was about to walk to the second point, a lady alone saw me from far run towards me, she was happy to see me, you can tell in her face as she run towards me, from a far, I thought I know this lady because she was smiling at me (my mind starts to think who is this lady, where have I meet her???), when she reached me, she asked me; “am I staying in JuiZhaiGou tonight?” I was sorry to reply her, “No”, and you can see the disappointment on her face. She was hopping to have someone to stay inside JuiZhaiGou with her because she was afraid to be alone staying with the Tibetan owner.

For what I know from my Guangzhou roommate, if you are thinking of staying inside the JuiZhaiGou Park, make sure you bring a small bag and not your big backpack; you may be stop at the entrance with your big backpack. When you intend to stay inside the park, make sure you have your torchlight with you, as there might not have light, after they close the park, it will be total darkness I guess and I heard there are rangers going round to check the area, make sure no one stay in there. So if you are staying inside the park, it can be very challenging (Is like playing hide and seek with the rangers in the park.).

As the young lady was alone and was disappointed to hear me saying not staying, she walks away and I continue to walk to the second point. As I take time to take photos, I thought I've taken a lots of photos but the true was when I returned to my hotel room, I found out I've taken not many of them.

Inside the JuiZhaiGuo Park, I get to know two people come from Beijing province; they are father and daughter visiting the place together. I can't really remember at which area I've meet them and they were very nice to offer help to take photo for me.

The Beijing old man was healthy, he has walk a lot, we were walking on our own individual visit but we were meet up a few time at different point when I was spending time taking photos, at the almost late afternoon we were walk together for many hours.

Are you asking me how about lunch? Good question; I walk from point to point and reach a place for lunch, during lunch hour, all buses inside will not operating, they were all stop at one station and had their lunch break. I don't have my lunch, I had my snack with me, I brought my own food and drink to the park, I was glad that I did that, inside there is a restaurant and place for food but it was so crowded inside and may be the food a bit expensive also. You have to wait for food, wait for seats to be seated. So you decide what you want to do.

Anyway, I had my snack and drink as my lunch, I carry on walking and exploring to the next spot. At about late afternoon, we were almost finishing all area, the bus driver shouting, “lets go, let's go, last bus to go back”. We got no choice, all of us were there have to on board the bus, we didn't know there is timing at different spot they will close the area for visitors and all the transport will not go there too. So is better for you to visit the entire way in first and explore slowly out, in this way, you will not miss any spot to visit.

As finally reach our first point, the old man gets tired and he went back to his hotel, her daughter wanted to walk further and she join me to walk back, so we look around the shop area first, see anything to buy for souvenir.

The Beijing lady bought something for herself, as for me, I was attracted by their local snacks, I bought it and try it a few snacks, very nice, while I was eating, at this time, a lady approach me again, she started to talking to me (while my mind thinking again, who is this girl???), asking me the same question, “so you really not staying back tonight?” (Oh when she asked me the question, I recall it.), I replied the same to her.

As soon as I had finished my snack, “yam” “yam” (delicious), the Beijing lady and I depart the area and we had carry on walking. Instead of walking the normal roadside, we decided to walk over to the other side of water flowing area to take a look, after exploring over there, instead of walking back the same route, we walk further towards the direction leading us out to the exit (entrance also).

We didn't know the road from the entrance to the first point was really long, we had walk very long and it was not reach the entrance still, later we heard someone was shouting at us, we looking around, it was the two rangers of JiuZhaiGou driving a car opposite of us, asking us to leave the place, the area already close, we looked at our watch it was already pass 6pm approaching 7pm, as we saw them, we were glad, we asked them whether we can take their car out (because all the bus were stop operating) and there was no one inside the park (accept the lady I know off), he was so nice drove us out, I can't imagine that road can be very long, I've under estimated the distance, I enter from there took a bus in, it was less than 2 minutes reach the area but we took more than one hour to walk out but still we were not able to reach the exit.

So my advise to you, is to buy the entrance ticket and the transport together, otherwise, you may end up walking a lot but not able to cover many of it.

As there is a season on the water flowing, the time I went was not the best timing to see the water, my Taiwan roommate told me August or October will be the best time to see the water. The season I went, there was one area close for visit because there was no water, so I can't see it, the bus does passing by the area but it was not stop because it was close. Well, if you plan to go at the peak season to see the best of JuiZhaiGou, do take note that the hotel will be fully booked and hotel can be more expensive.

I was feeling happy to be able to see with my own eyes how JiuZhaiGou was like, seeing on photos of JiuZhaiGou it doesn't really brings out the real thing which I've seen but photos which I took can gives me memories of those place I'd visited.

After visited the JiuZhaiGou, say goodbye to the Beijing lady and we depart at our own hotel. I bought my bus ticket for the next day morning, got my dinner, after shower, I pack my bag and sleep early.

Next day (25 April'2004) early the morning, take the 7am bus and depart the JiuZhaiGou back to Chengdu. On the way back, the bus passing through places which you can see mountains snow cap; I can see clouds flooding below the mountain level. It must be cold outside since I can see clouds, I open the window, wow… the winds was really cold and I quickly close the window.

Well, as soon as I reached the bus terminal, I walk slowly back to the same youth hostel. When the hostel staff see me again, without question ask, she hand me the key to my room.

So now you decide, whether to be adventure like me not booking anything and do your own explore and take the challenge or to pay a bit more to get the tour package to do everything for you. Which one you want and you may decide it and plan for yourself.

Okay, thanks for taking time to read my long journals.

To read on my next journey about Xian…. Click Next.

To read about what I did after returned to Chendu youth hostel, click on Previous to recall.