Candlelight in Kathmandu

"Monkey Temple"
see all photos »

Writing by candlelight takes on an entirely different feeling.  It is ambiant, yet eerie all in the same moment.  The shadows that get cast with the shaking flame tease your eyes.  I experienced this phenomenon while sitting in a cafe in the Thamel district of Kathmandu waiting for my dinner order.  As I was told later, the power-outages are a daily occurence.  Oh, joy!

The chaotic city of Kathmandu is teaming with life, so much so it is palpable with every polluted breath you take.  The streets are filled with signs for pashminas, climbing equipment, and bakeries.  There are an amazing number of different ethnic foods to soothe the westerners' spirits.  I could eat Italian, Chinese, Thai, and of course, Nepali.  I love the mo-mo, a dumpling like pasta filled with vegetables or chicken.  As I have seen the butchers out on the street, I tend to stick to the vegetarian route while I am here!

Prayer rollers at a temple.
see all photos »

I arrived into Kathmandu with the goal to leave as soon as possible.  I looked into a trip run by the Borderlands Resort close to the Tibetan border in the mountains.  They run a canyoning trip for 2 days which includes transport and meals.  I signed up immediately.  I figured, repelling down the mountain is way more fun than climbing up it!  Ha, ha.  As I had two days to wait around until the trip left, I explored the city the best I could.

I zigged and zagged through the dirt streets to witness hidden gardens and Buddhist stupas.  I explored Durbar Square with its temples and the old Royal Palace.  It is home to the "living goddess", a little girl spiritually selected to sit on the throne.  Quite a phenomenon!  I strolled by markets of vegetables, jewelery, and legumes.  I even came across a snake charmer with three cobras!  I was too scared to get out my camera though for fear it would distract the snakes!  Ahh!

Locals sitting in Durbar Square.
see all photos »

I also got to experience some bureaucratic paperwork at its best while in Kathmandu.  My Indian visa had expired on the 1st of March, and since I was headed there next, I needed a new one.  I had to go to the Indian Embassy in the city from the hours of 9:30 am until noon, and request a visa.  After my first day there, waiting in line for 4 hours, paying a small fee to fax my request form, I was told to return 5 days later with another form to get the visa!  What fun I had!  Anyway, I returned after my canyoning trip to wait in line only 3 hours this time to hand in my new form.  I was then told to return that afternoon to retrieve my passport with my new visa in it!  I guess this is how it is done, but what a hassle to cut into the travelling!

A street vendor selling flower necklaces for prayer.
see all photos »

Overall, Kathmandu is a great city.  Once you get past the constant beeping by the motorcycles and taxis; the streetchildren begging for food; and the cloud of pollution hanging over your head.  The people are friendly, laid back, and generally excited to ask how you are and where you are from.  I can't tell you how many nice conversations I had with the locals over America and what it is like there.  They just wanted to talk about it!