First View of the Andes

Our 15 hour flight from Portland to LA, then LA to Santiago went amazingly well on S.A. LAN Airlines.  Bob and I had individual remotes for the video screens and we each watched 3 1/2 movies, from a choice of 7 or 8 which made the time fly by, almost as fast as the airplane!  We had aisle seats in the last row with a great view of the gulf of California and mainland down to central America, at which point it was too dark to see anything.  After getting through customs, paying our $100 entry fee each(ouch), and picking up the luggage, we were met by a rep from our hotel holding a sign with ROBERT GALES written on it, which was comforting to see.  As we were driven into the city we were indeed fortunate to have clear enough skies to get our first glimpse of the snowcovered Andes, which because of city smog are not always that easy to see.  A city of 5 million people creates it`s share of smog.  The Andes tower above Santiago much like the Rocky Mts in Salt Lake City, only there are more of them and higher, too.  We hope to see Aconcagua at 22,000 ft plus, the highest mountain in S.A. just a few hours drive into the Andes.  Our hotel is quaint, a former mansion with parquet floors and antique furniture at a very reasonable rate, located on a winding cobblestone street in the Londres district near Universidad de Chile. The neighborhood is pedestrian friendly and we`ve spent the past 3 days walking around, in fact we covered 6 miles yesterday and saw a lot by the time we arrived at La Chascona, the Pablo Neruda home which is now a museum.  The museum entry fee includes a tour of the home by a charming and knowledgeable Neruda scholar and it was the highlight of the day.  For those romantics out there, be sure to read Neruda`s `Twenty Love Poems and  a Song of Despair`.  The film Il Postino gives an impression of a part of his life, a Nobel prize winner and Chile`s favortite famous son.

We`ve been having fun with the language and fortunately Bob gets us through most situations with his Spanish.  We have had a couple of pleasant conversations with gracious Chilean men who have a command of English.  Actually, the people are all gracious and friendly and helpful, it`s just that they speak rapido/fast and it`s hard for me to understand them, although I am getting better at hearing and understanding.

The Chilean empanadas (look it up!) are delicious and Chilean wine is very good and the combo makes a satisfying meal.  We buy bottled water at the nearby super mercado, La Bandera Azul.

10/29/06 continuing from yesterday.....

We found a sweet little restaurant that we´ve returned to a few times.  The waiters compete, in a friendly way, as customers come through the door and they´re patient as we try to figure out the menu with out understanding what they´re trying to tell us!  It all works out and we end up with great food.

Our first morning we were having espresso at the little cafe around the corner and met a young Brit couple who told us they were traveling on his motorcycle which they shipped over from the UK.  They were headed to Puerto Montt, about a 1000 Kilometers south on the bike!!! we were amazed and of course I asked if they´d seen Motorcycle Diaries.  They enthusiastically responded yes, and I could´nt help think the film must have somewhat inspired them to make such a challenging journey.

Bob and I were inspired by a book we read to plan our 3 day boat ride through the Chilean channels to Patagonia.  The book ´Around Cape Horn: One Man´s Dream, One Woman´s Nightmare´ by Reane Heminway-Douglas eloquenty described the attempt she and her husband Don Douglas made to sail from San Diego, CA south to around Cape Horn on their 50 ft sailboat in the mid 1970´s.  It was a thrilling read and we recommend it.  Her description of the Chilean channels was so compelling that when we began planning our S.A. trip we knew we had to include them, knowing it´s not something we´d ever attempt on our own boat.

Bob´s turn now!

Well, Gail pretty much covered the first few days of our trip.  It is a long flight but we were fairly comfy as the LAN Chile 767 had plenty of leg room.

Santiago is a large, smogy and friendly city.  Today, Sunday, we took the underground to the Central Market.  Just about every fish and fresh veg-fruit you can think of, plus lots of cafe table spaces.  The fish market smell is a bit overwhelming though.

We then walked to the funicular that took us up Cerro Christobal.  Then a teliferico that continued across the mountain.  It looks like it might have been at one of the ski areas years ago!  The small, four person gondolas and erector-set towers were kind of rickety looking.  That and the trees and bushes that brushed against the cab made for a fun ride.  But the view today was spectacular.  The sun was out and the Andes mountains were in full view.  Still lots of snow on the big ones and we hope to pick up some skiing info when we go to Mendoza in late November.  A Canadian who works here told me that just three weeks ago while he was playing golf his friend was skiing just outside the city.

It is late spring here, probably like May in Oregon.

Tomorrow we fly south to Puerto Montt and board the NaviMag ferry for a three night, four day journey through the Chilean Channels to Puerto Natales.  This will be one of the highlights for me and I will make sure I put my seasick patch on well before we depart!

I hope you are able to connect to our trip journal and enjoy our adventures.  Don´t hesitate to write either of us at our email addresses if you can´t connect through our blog.  Whouda thunk we would be blogging?!

Love to all,

Bob