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Editors Pick

Kayaking the Open Seas

From Bill and Michelle Around the World 2008-2009 in Nelson, New Zealand on Dec 10 '08

Bill & Michelle DeKeyser has visited no places in Nelson
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One of the many islands that dot the Queen Charlotte Sound
One of the many islands that dot the Queen Charlotte Sound
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We investigated a lot of options to get from Christchurch to Nelson so we could Kayak the Abel Tasman National Park, in the end with alot of advice on the route from our Servas Host Eric we decided to rent a car and drive.  Our drive took us up through the Lewis Pass and the mountainous backbone that runs through the center of the South Island.  The scenery was amazing and we had good weather most of the way to allow us to see the amazing views.

As a break we stopped in the small town of Hanmer Springs were we rested outside under the mountains and got a quick bite to eat.  Little did we know that would be the last time it was easy to find food for a while.  We arrived at Nelson and checked into our cheap hotel turned Backpacker Hostel.  It was a little rough around the edges, but has served as a good base close to the bus station.  Then around 7:30 we headed out to find some food armed with Lonely Planet.  After checking out a couple of resturants that avoid the night rush by closing at 5:00 we finally wandered to a bar that was serving food.  Which over the next few days we realized we were quite lucky to find as the entire town of Nelson is only open from 8 to 5, and that is the business that are open late.  For the number of Hostels and Hotels in the area there was almost no place to eat.

The tropical looking water of the Queen Charlotte Sound
The tropical looking water of the Queen Charlotte Sound
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As we were finishing our meal and going to pay the bill we ran into Johanna and Jonna (the two Sweedish girls) from the Milford Track.  Apparently they had meet Anita and Dani already because the first words out of their mouth we asking if I really burnt my pants, and did it hurt?  After a good laugh about my pants, we headed out together and found a small bar that had live music where we could sit and talk.

After a late night with a few beers, we were not early risers the next morning.  When we finally did get moving since we still had a car we headed out to Marlborough Sound National Park to go find a quite beach to relax on and maybe a short walk back in the forest.  We headed out on a twisty turny mountain road, and then we turned off the main road onto minor road that lead to the end of one of the Peninsulas created by the sounds.  After another half hour of twisting and turning, we got to a small town with a nice bay.  However, within 10 minutes of getting their the rain clouds started to roll in and we decided that maybe today was not the day to be out exploring this area.

The scenery was amazing
The scenery was amazing
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By the time we got back to town the rain was over and the sun was shinning again, though it still looked dark where we had planned on going.  So we drove to the local beach, where we were nearly blown away by the strong winds coming off the water.  It the wind however did make it a perfect playground for Kite Surfers who were out playing in the bay.  There were probably 20 of them out there weaving around and jumping the surf.

The next morning we woke up early for our day long Kayaking trip in Abel Tasman National Park.  Our guided trip was supposed to be a long one way paddle along the coast, however early morning winds and chop had us alter plans.  So we took a water taxi out to one of the closer bays on the edge of the marine reserve.  We then paddled through the bay to a lagoon formed by the 4.3 meter tides in the region.  For people who have never seen a 13 foot tide it is quite a sight in the morning all the boats are floating, by afternoon they are beached nearly a kilometer from the water.  But these large swings in tide create huge lagoons that can only be explored by kayak.  As the weather improved towards early afternoon, we paddled into a lagoon that was formed at the mouth of a river.  This was fun to get in and out of, because the waves where pushing you into the lagoon, while the current from the tide going out was trying to drag you out.  Fortunately we made it out before the water dropped too far and we had to carry the kayaks back to the sea.

The exit of the sound as we head to the North Island
The exit of the sound as we head to the North Island
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After lunch we headed out to a small (but growing) island that housed a seal colony.  It is the time of year when they are giving birth to pups, so we were quite lucky to see 2 or 3 pups peaking out from behind mama.  Since mating season was about to begin the seals were not in a very playful mood, but one did hop in the water and swim around our kayaks for a little while.  After that we just paddled back along the coast to enjoy the spectacular scenery.  A kayak trip is a definate must for anyone who visits this part of New Zealand.

Bill and Michelle overlooking the one of the Marlborough Sounds
Bill and Michelle overlooking the one of the Marlborough Sounds
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The next day as we traveled to Wellington we travelled through the Marlborough wine region and to Queen Charolette Sound, which is the largest and most famous of the sounds in the area.  Our ferry to Wellington then weaved its way through the Queen Charolette Sound providing phenominal veiws down the many small bays that branch off the sound.  As we left the mouth of the sound, into the straight that seperates the North and South Islands, we were provided with a view of the rough coast of the South Island, with the tall snowcapped mountains in the background.  The weather was perfect and the views were fantastic.

The storm rolls in over the water
The storm rolls in over the water
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Bill


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