Valladolid and the site at Ek Balam

Barbara & Dave at Ek Balam.
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We arrived early at Valladolid after our sleepless night in Piste, see previous entry.

Valladolid was once called Zaci, and was a Maya ceremonial centre, until the Spanish arrived and renamed it after one of their own Spanish cities, Valladolid.

Mayan chocolate, an acquired taste with crunchy bits

We headed for our chosen hotel, but ended up walking out on them after they procrastinated about which room we could have - even though all the rooms were full and we could not view our potential room. so we headed round the corner to the main square and the Maria de la Luz hotel, which turned out to be a real little gem. A nice quiet room in the top corner, finally we could get a full night's sleep and joy, air con as well. The eating area was set along one side of a swimming pool which looked inviting, but in the whole time we were there we never once saw anyone swim in it.

Just because it said Ian.
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The main square was not as elaborately or cheerfully decorated for Christmas as many of the other towns and villages we have stayed in, perhaps an indication of the lack of real prosperity in this town, which seems to be a lot less salubrious, but still safe and homely.

The main reason for stopping in Valladolid was to visit the Mayan site of Ek Balan, about 28kms north of the town. We shared a taxi with a local family, and the cost to get to the site was 3 UK pounds (60 pesos).

Ek Balam shares characteristics common to the most important Maya cities, including monumental architecture, stelae, a ball court, walls and serpent hyeroglyphics. The unusual thing here is that most of the buildings feature extraordinary sculptures carved in stone or modelled stucco, and this seems to indicate that Ek Balam was a capital of a wealthy and populous region.

Kissing seat in the Zocalo.
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It dates back to 300BC, before the arrival of the Spanish Conquistadores.

The Acropolis has an extraordinary facade and is well worth a look. It measures 160m long, 70m wide, and is 31m high, and is one of the highest pyramids that you can climb in this region. Indeed it is listed amongst the largest constructions in the Yucatan.

Back in the town again, we decided to try some local specialities, Mayan chocolate (hot drink) and Mayan coffee. Both are definitely an acquired taste, although after adding 3 sachets of sugar, and some cinnamon for good luck, I still had not acquired the taste for Mayan chocolate drink. It's extremely bitter, to say the least, and has crunchy bits through it. Dave's verdict on the coffee was that it was bland, and had no flavour whatsoever. But don't let us put you off trying it for yourself, if you ever get the chance.

Bunting on the Cathedral in Valladolid.
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We visited the main Cathedral but it was shut, very unusual for Churches around here. Outside hung streamers with beautiful coloured buntings and as there was a cooling fresh breeze today, they were fluttering in the wind - so we couldn't resist including some photos of these. Later in the evening the Cathedral was open and so we went in, only to find that a wedding had just taken place, and it was "photo call" time. Smiling bride with everyone. It did however give us the opportunity to have a look around the interior, which was simply but beautifully decorated.

Jaguar Mouth at Ek Balam.
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An early night tonight - again - as we have an early start tomorrow to get down into Belize.