Gaudi's Barcelona

Today starts with an included guided tour around the city with a guide called Carlos. As we drive off, we pass the Arch of Triumph that once formed the entrance to the 1888 Universal Exhibition. It’s built of red brick and is certainly very impressive. It’s also a great marker for finding our hotel again. The road we drive along borders the Ciutadella Park (again used for same exhibition). If I didn’t have plans for later I would love to come back here. We pass a series of interesting buildings, including the Zoological and Geology Museums.

We start (of course) by visiting the Eixample district. This is the home of Modernist Barcelona, made famous by the King of the Modernist movement, Gaudi. If you don’t normally like architecture, it’s still worth visiting. You will see the most amazing buildings in Barcelona and they are all wildly different, so if you don’t like one, you’re bound to like another.

After a lot of head scratching from us and frustration from everyone around us, someone finally points out tersely that it would be cheaper to buy a ten trip ticket, which we could all use

We passed one of my favourites, the Batllo House by Gaudi. When you look closely you start to see the theme of St George and the Dragon (in this case acting as the Patron Saint of Barcelona not England). The turquoise tiles on the strangely shaped roof represent the dragon’s skin. As your eyes travel down, you can see the skull shaped balconies at the top, slowly morph into cave like windows at the bottom. Sticking out the very top is a chimney like structure, topped with what looks like the hilt of a sword.

Another of his masterpieces is the Passeig de Gracia. There’s hardly a straight line to be seen. It looks like the waves of the sea hitting the rocks. Sadly we didn’t stop, so I wasn’t able to see the beautiful chimneys and roof top park.

Of course there is one building you simply have to see when you’re in Barcelona – the spectacular Temple of the Sagrada Familia (The Church of the Sacred Family). It looks like a series of stalagmites. Naturally it was part of our tour, but sadly we didn’t have time to go inside. We arrived at the Passion façade, and then after a bit of explanation from our guide, we walk around to the Birth façade. Then it’s back on the coach and off again.

Whilst Carlos does his bit, I sneak off to take a much closer look at the two contrasting facades. The passion façade is particularly surprising as it was not built by Gaudi. The cave like pillars that loom above the doorway were only completed in 1976 and the angular sculptures were added in 1987 by Josep Subirachs. Although it is clearly a different design, it compliments the rest of the building extremely well.

The cathedral is still very much a construction site and will remain so for at least the next 30 years. There is scaffolding everywhere, but in a way that’s what makes it different and special. You don’t often get the opportunity to see a cathedral as a work in progress. Even more remarkable is that the whole thing is being paid for by donations and entrance fees. It must be a wonderful feeling to know that you helped build it.

All too soon we are dragged away and taken (against my better judgement) to visit the site of the 1992 Olympic Games, Montjuic. I’m not really interested in this, but do find some of the structures interesting, such as the Calatrava Tower. It looks like a beautiful piece of sculpture, but was actually the telecommunications tower for the world’s media.

The main reason for visiting Montjuic is the view. From here you can look out across the whole city – and it is spectacular. Right in the centre we can easily pick out the Temple of the Sagrada Familia.

We drive back down into the city, passing through another set of spectacular buildings, constructed in 1929 for an international exhibition. This is Espania Square, marked at one end by two reproductions of the bell tower of St Mark’s Square in Venice.

After the official guided tour Susan, Yee and myself head first to the Palau de la Musica Catalona. Although it wasn’t designed by Gaudi, it is a wonderful example of Modernisma design. It is possible to visit it but unfortunately you can’t just wander around on your own, so we have to book onto the English language tour later that afternoon. Luckily it gives us enough time to find something to eat in a nearby pizza restaurant (what is it with these lactose intolerant girls!).

Then it was back round the corner for a mouth watering tour. The decoration is lavish and over the top. Even the most ordinary fixture is given special treatment. In particular I loved the barley sugar twist banisters. Within their amber glass bodies you can see the functional iron support.

Inside the main theatre is the most exquisite skylight. It looks like a ball of flame falling from the sky. On one side of the stage were enormous figures depicting the charge of the valcories. This represents classical museum and international composers. On the other are figures representing peasants. This represents traditional Catalonia music. We just sit in the balcony awe struck by the extent of the decoration. Every surface is plastered with wondrous details.

We are now a little stuck with where to go. My plan was to visit Parc Guell, which had been recommended by a friend. It was completely designed by Gaudi and is reputed to be sensational. My only problem is that it isn’t in the centre of town. It’s actually quite a way outside the centre. However Yee and Susan are persuaded by my description and now I have the added worry of whether we are going to waste the afternoon getting there and be disappointed by the results.

Our first problem is navigating the metro system. There is a lot of confusion when I step up to the ticket office and ask for a return. After a lot of head scratching from us and frustration from everyone around us, someone finally points out tersely that it would be cheaper to buy a ten trip ticket, which we could all use. This was what the ticket seller was trying to get across to us. We sheepishly stump up and slink off in search of our platform.

The park falls between two different stations. We’re not sure which will be best so end up at the second one, because it looks closer. It probably is but what we didn’t realise from our maps is that it is exceptionally steep. We end up at the bottom of a huge flight of steps either side of a set of escalators. “Oh well! that’s not too bad - we won’t have to walk very far”. Unfortunately most of the escalators seem to be out of order, or we simply don’t know how to start them. We end up climbing most of the way. In addition I discover that Yee has a really dodgy knee and this is really not doing her any good.

Eventually, in rocketing temperatures, we reach the top and nervously head into the park. I need not have worried. It is sensational! We entered at the top, with the park revealed in all its glory in front of us. We find ourselves on a terrace with a snaking bench around the edges. This is decorated in the typical broken tiles that most symbolise Gaudi’s work. How often do you get to touch or even sit on a work of art? We get ourselves some much needed ice lollies and perch on the wonderfully cool bench. From here we can admire the strange palm tree inspired walls around us and the fabulous gingerbread houses at the far entrance.

As we head down from the terrace, we discover a huge cavernous space beneath it, supported on numerous pillars. It is wonderfully cool and provides protection and wonderful acoustics for various buskers. The ceiling is dimpled and again decorated in broken tiles. On the most part these are white, but they are broken up by highly decorative disks, full of colour. We really have to drag ourselves away from it.

The final steps down to the main entrance of the park hold a Gaudi icon. This is the home of a massive decorative salamander. Of course I want to have my picture taken with it, but so does everyone else. I haven’t seen a crowd like this since visiting the statue of David outside the Uffizi Museum in Florence. Still we each join the throng, taking our split second chance to jump into shot, have our picture taken whilst hoping that someone’s elbow hasn’t just obliterated our face.

Eventually we followed a quieter path through the lush planting, until we reached another less conspicuous building. Gaudi had actually lived here whilst he worked on the Park. It is now a museum dedicated to his memory. We pay a very small admittance fee and spend a very pleasant hour wandering around its beautiful but modest interior.

After visiting Parc Guell, we decide to head to the other metro station. Although this route may be slightly longer, it is a less arduous route.