Keralan Cooking

Jew Town
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Our time on the east coast of India wasn't working out too well so we decided to head west, to the state of Kerala - known for it's high literacy rates and having a healthier than average set of people. Kerala constantly gets good reviews from travelers and deservedly so. It has so much to offer and the people are remarkably friendly, many speaking English that you can actually understand.

We arrived early in the morning to the city of Kochi after a 10 hour overnight bus from Pondicherry. Our first mission was to get to Fort Kochi, the area with all the accomodation and places of interest. Unfortunately it is on an island, a good 7 or 8 km from the bus and train station so you need to take either an expensive auto-rickshaw or a cheap bus to get there...

We all piled in to a tiny sweaty old working kitchen that had probably never seen a make-over

Kathakali
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Half an hour later and our cheap bus arrived into Fort Kochi. We were greeted by locals offering to put us up in their homes. This was not an act of generosity but our first taste of Indian homestays and the touts that go with them.

After finding a place to stay we spent the next couple of days relaxing in an unfamiliar laid back & friendly environment. We browsed the many clothes and antique stores and watched the fishermen at work with their huge Chinese fishing nets - so big they need four men to operate them. We also visited nearby Jew Town to see yet more antiques and the remnants of Kochi's spice trade with its old crumbling buildings and rich aroma everywhere.

The many spices for sale
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On our first night we went to a Kathakali show. Kathakali is a famous Keralan play based on Hindu epics such as the Mahabharata. The performers first spend an hour or so putting on extravagant make-up in front of the audience, then the play begins with the performers telling the story through hand movements and facial expressions, with the help of a couple of drummers and a singer. It's a fascinating performance and very clever too, luckily though they only give you an hours worth as a taster, the real thing can last 9 or 10 hours!

Our houseboat
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While in Kochi we took part in our first Indian cooking school, a much grittier experience than we have had in other countries as we all piled in to a tiny sweaty old working kitchen that had probably never seen a make-over. Here we saw some of Keralas classic dishes being made and then got to eat it all making the experience all the more worthwhile. We did this at the Taj Mahal guesthouse if you are thinking of coming here and fancy some cooking tips. These schools are offered all over Fort Kochi however so you'll be spoilt for choice.

Our engine
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There are many restaurants in Kochi all serving up traditional Keralan fish dishes. Most do not have a license to sell alcohol which they get round by simply calling beer "Special Tea" on the menu. Your "Special Tea" or bottle of beer then arrives in a teapot with a mug to pour it into, as a disguise just in case the police walk by.

Continuing on from Kochi we went 45 minutes down the coast to a tiny village tucked away in the famous Keralan backwaters. We had booked a homestay for one night followed by a house boat trip the next day. The backwaters are a network of waterways heading inland from the coast. Within them are many villages and settlements, some accessible only by boat. In this season it's a hot area to visit and the homestay was a good place for us to rest up and be waited on, eating excellent meals and watching village life all around us. Chants all day (and annoyingly most of the night) from a nearby Hindu temple added to the atmosphere.

Gary and his Special Tea
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Day two and we boarded our houseboat for the journey through the narrow waterways of the surrounding area. Most houseboats are organised further south in Alleppey and there you will often be sharing the water with hundreds of other tourists on huge motor driven boats. We chose an alternative experience with our boat being punted by two local men on a tourist-free section (excluding us) of the backwaters.

We moved slowly through the water with rice paddies and palm trees all around us. The friendly locals were going about their daily chores and only the request of "one pen" or "one chocolate" from the cheeky school children let you know that you were still just a tourist looking in on their lives.

Gary in the kitchen
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The food was superb once again and the condition of the boat was excellent. For anyone wanting a quieter backwater experience you can book this trip in Fort Kochi at Wilson Tours. No we're not on commission Colin!

Gary