call to prayer in a bikini

we took a bus from cairo to sharm el-sheikh. it costs tourists more than locals, but is cheap (60 egyptian pounds) this was one of the worst parts of our trip. it was hot, crowded, and full of men. we were the only tourists traveling by bus during peak season (so i assume everyone else knew better). it took 8 hours and the bus driver was blasting islamic hymns the entire ride. i got the feeling we were really not wanted on the bus. there were 2 other egyptian women traveling alone, they seemed awkward too. there were many check-points along the way, our tickets and passports were checked (thanks to the customs police for putting the egyptian stamps on the same page as the israeli one). lots of armed men along the sides of the desert roads.

we were heading to sharm to get to the red sea, but there are much better places to go. sharm is a tourist pit. this is not egypt. resorts and euro trashies in thong bikinis lounging around all day and clubbing all night. but, in the spirit of thriftiness, i heard i had an uncle there (distant relation). he apparently owned a diving company and upon our arrival learned that he was in indonesia starting up a new one.

after stopping off at an internet cafe where a young man named mohammed carried our bags a few blocks till we got to the hostel, we checked into the scariest place around. right next to a mosque, this hostel seemed to be run by a large egyptian man and his many wives. we were told not to leave after dark, and this was an armed compund, as it would be inappropriate. men and women cannot stay together without certification of marraige. this didn't sit well. we might have wanted to go get a drink and meet some nice big australians and have them take us home to make sure we are safe in our room without guns or dogs being involved. no luck.

we left and took a taxi to the rosetta hotel on the main drag. this was really expensive and not that luxurious. but safe and right on the sea.

we spent the next day snorkeling, which was so awesome. the red sea is perfect, the colors, the stillness, the temperature. there really is nothing like it. go there!