Réveillon and Lets Chat about Brazil

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Rio

Yup, its pretty spectacular thats for sure. Its not architecturally amazing but after the north it seemed impossibly civilized and European. Its also a lot more white in terms of its demographic so it was quite nice to not be the only pale face on the beach for a change.

What really elevates Rio into the world class cities bracket is its geography. Spectacular coast line and a city sprinkled over round topped rock mountains. Stunning, simply stunning.

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Okay so I was in Brazil for a month and traveled from the north a long way south and so feel qualified as at least a superficial visitor to comment on one or two things

Personal Security

Yes, Brazil is a country where you have to be a tad careful. Yes, people will steal things if you give them the opportunity. So many folk have bugger all so lets not be too judgemental about their morals. That said no one wants to get robbed. It is however pretty easy to avoid. Don't be a muppet is a good start, carry what you need and no more and lock everything else away. Don´t be flash and hide your camera. Keep cash in dif places on your bod and if you do get held up make sure you have enough obvious cash to pacify the gentleman with the knife or gun. The latter I managed to avoid entirely by prudent use of taxis and failing to wander into dodge areas at the wrong times. Sounds like a nightmare?? Nah, just think how careful you´d be in London and apply it here. No more, no less. If you´re vaguely aware its pretty easy. Honestly its the Lonely Planet should be shot for scare mongering. Relax and have a good time. People live here every day you know and your shadow won´t bite.

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Brazilian People

...are lovely. Forgive me for saying this but they have a wonderful childlike curiosity and sociability. They have little or no sense of personal space and are gregarious and relaxed. They have a lot of joie de vivre. Equally organisation isn´t{t one of their strong points and they don´t always have the highest standards settling instead for less than they deserve. Apparently this is quite a Catholic mentality and contrast with a Protestant work ethic but I´m not really qualified to comment on this historical generalisation. Incidentally Davo they are bloody hard working but labour for long hours within an unrewarding system for low pay.

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Poverty

Shhh....don´t mention this. Its everywhere but seems to be a taboo subject amongst the middle classes. See no poverty, hear no poverty etc etc. Maybe if we shut our eyes it will go away? Sorry I´m being hard but there is a two tier society and they live in parallel with the two populations hardly ever mixing. The new president Lula has made some large in roads into addressing these issues but even his administration has been tainted by corruption. Not sure if it was his unofficial slogan but certainly one politician was known as the man ´who steals but gets things done´. Amazing eh??

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Favelas

...are a fact of life. For those who don´t know a Favela is an unofficial part of a city. they are common throughout Brazil and my understanding is that they are a product of a working population that does not earn enough to house or feed itself. Faced with this reality country argricultural workers migrating to the city for work grabbed land and added some metal and plastic sheeting for shelter. Over time this evolves into bricks and mortar but obviously without formal infrastructure. Favelas are run by drug lords and are no go areas for police. They are however incredibly well policed by the benevolent drug lords who tolerate almost no crime or indeed anything else that would give the dodgy police an excuse to enter the favela with all guns blazing. (Which apparently they occasionally do). Apparently a favela bank owned by the drug lords was never robbed until off duty policemen attempted to do so. Such are the inverted rules of Favelas.

...and yes I have visited one. No we didn´t go in with SUVs and machine guns but trotted round with a guide. How bizarre eh?? 50% of our tour money goes on community projects and our presence was welcomed by the inhabitants who apart from the opportunity to sell us things quite liked the idea that our presence legitimised their community. Most inhabitants are hard working folk who have to live with open sewers and cramped conditions. Kids were unbelievably cute and healthy looking, which was a surprise but my god there were so many off them. Well I suppose if there´s nothing else to do eh?? That said inhabitants steal electricity, telephone and indeed internet access by simply plugging in to existing connections. Quite enterprising eh??

Favela houses do keep collapsing and perhaps no surprise really as air rights are constantly sold and houses creep organically skywards. As an architect I was horrified by the structural danger but impressed with the adhoc product - even if it did have clear limitations.

So the overriding question was why were we allowed in? as never satisfactorily answered - apparently we add community benefit. Certainly drug lords condoned our presence.   We ran into one of the Golden Boys, ie. a guy who was in the top ten of the favela hierarchy and he was indeed no more than a boy but definitely had presence. Interesting for sure.

Lapa and Samba

Get yourself to Lapa. Ignore the huge black gangster looking dudes and get on down. Truly awesome even if the huge dudes mincing away would have been comical anywhere else. Somehow they still looked macho - nice work eh?? The girlies can surely move and a club half open to the elements and made of tin with that kind of electricity certainly commanded my respect. the old boys in the band were dudes. Quite a night.

New Year

In a nutshell - 2 million people (or something rediculous), Copacabana beach, a dude that looks like He-Man, astounding fireworks and a huge slice of performance cheese.

Well Edinburgh it wasn´t kids but thats my experience of the stoke of midnight. That said twas indeed ´same shit dif place´: unwieldy group size, 20 people all needing a wee / drink / snog at dif times etc etc. That and the worlds biggest traffic jam of course. Ha ha!!! Top!!!!

Happy New year guys!!!