El Remate and Tikal, November 10, 2006

Ocellated Turkeys at dawn's early light
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I woke up early again, as usual. Again, I hadn’t slept well. The hotel watchdog hadn’t barked, but several other dogs in the nearby neighborhood had barked most of the night, joined by roosters that crowed well before dawn (the dogs probably woke them up, too). The air conditioner continued to stop working every couple of hours, so I guess the hotel staff didn’t understand how to program the remote control any better than I. When I went into the bathroom, a two-inch long cockroach scurried across the floor. I managed to throw a towel over it and step on it. I left both bug and towel on the floor, hoping the cleaning lady would see it and spray while I was out.

Ceiba tree: bottom
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It was a good thing I woke up early, because I never got my requested wake-up knock. I gathered my pack, chair, snacks, water, and sack lunch from the still-closed office, making it out front to the waiting van with only a minute to spare. I got into the van with the Canadians, a French couple, and enough others to fill the van (which didn’t stop the driver from picking up another passenger along the way). We drove in the dark for about a half hour, giving me a chance to calm down after the hectic morning. It was good to share travel stories with the English-speaking Canadians.

Ceiba tree: middle
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After pausing at the entrance to Tikal, we continued on to the parking lot, another fifteen minutes. By that time it was beginning to get light, and we spotted a flock of ten to twenty Ocellated Turkeys on the grounds of the Visitor’s Center as we passed by. Everyone got out of the van at the large parking lot (old airstrip), in front of one of the museums. To the right were the Jaguar Inn and Tikal Inn hotels. To the left were the Jungle Lodge hotel and the path leading into the jungle. The Canadians went to the hotel before entering the jungle, as they were staying the night at Tikal. The other passengers dispersed, and I went to the thatched guard’s hut to pay the entrance fee of 50 quetzals (about $7). The entrance fee was payable daily, whether one spent the night in Tikal or not, and was payable only in quetzals. I’d expected the fee to be higher.

Ceiba tree: top
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Right past the guard’s hut, on the left side of the road (it was still a wide road for some way), there was an embankment that hid a pond. Three Gray-necked Wood-Rails were foraging in the grass. What amazing birds! After watching them for a while, I continued walking along the road, which then narrowed into a wide path. I soon came upon a huge Ceiba tree on the right, in a little clearing. It took three photos to take in the tree, top to bottom. A little farther on I came to an intersection with a guardhouse on the left. The guard punched the ticket I had received when I paid the fee. There was a huge wooden map ahead, showing the various paths and ruin sites (there were also paper maps for sale).

Man beginning to excavate what God has covered
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I chose the path to the left, wanting to bird quietly away from the crowds that I expected would be at the Great Plaza (although there were few people around anywhere at this point). I spent all morning happily alone, watching toucans, parrots, trogons, and many other wonderful birds. I spotted a troop of howler monkeys, several spider monkeys swinging through the trees, and even two foxes. I fell once, making my way down a steep and wet stony path, but it only hurt for a little while. I walked for miles.

The unusual shape in the center of the photo is a spider monkey in the canopy
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The ruins themselves are considered spectacular to most. I didn’t pay much attention to them except to take some photos for my family (which they had insisted I do). I’d seen several ruins in Mexico thirty years ago and was impressed then. Now I am impressed by the beauty and variety of God’s creatures. I am impressed by God’s power to bury man’s structures with dirt, grass, bushes and trees. I am impressed by God’s dominion and man’s insignificance.

Several small pickup trucks loaded with workers had passed me while I birded. I wondered if they would give me a ride. I was very tired. Sure enough, I waved one down and the driver kindly dropped me off at the entrance. I walked around the museum and Visitor Center grounds, checked out the three comedores (eating places) along the entrance road, and then headed for the Jungle Lodge.

The Jungle Lodge had been my first choice when I researched Tikal lodging, but they never replied to several emails I sent them requesting information. The hotel sat far back from the road, up a winding stone path that was beautiful but fairly steep. I asked the man at the desk if reservations were necessary or if there were rooms available for the next several days. He said (in English!) that there were plenty of rooms, both those with private bath (about $65) and those without (about $35). That was nice to know in case I had problems with my reservation at the Jaguar Inn when I returned to Tikal.

Next I walked over to the Jaguar Inn to check on my reservation (two days away) and to give them a deposit (otherwise they would not hold the room past noon on the day of arrival). The desk clerk (who spoke no English) had my reservation and took a deposit. I told him I would probably be staying more than the one night—maybe a week—and asked if that would be O.K. since I’d only reserved one night. The manager, who had approved that request via email was not there, but I had a copy of the email. The desk clerk asked to see the email and slowly (very slowly) read it, although he couldn’t speak English. He finally agreed to my request.

Finally, I walked over to the Tikal Inn. Might as well see all three hotels, I decided. Tikal Inn had been the priciest choice on the Internet, but the desk clerk now told me they had rooms for $35. The email I’d sent to Tikal Inn months before had bounced, and I’d been unable to contact them. I went to look at their pool, but the water was drained and there was some renovation in progress (which they said would be completed in a week).

It was now close to 2pm, so I made arrangements to take the minivan (shuttle) back to my El Remate hotel, where I emailed my family about my wonderful day. The hotel seemed awfully quiet, and I was told that all of the other guests had checked out. I was running out of clean clothes faster than I expected (with all the sweating), so I washed out some things in the sink and asked one of the hotel staff for some clothespins for the line on my porch. He returned with a new package. I tried to pay him for them, but he wouldn’t accept the money. I then decided to take a nap, but I had no sooner lain down than an engine started up. One of the hotel staff was trimming some bushes right outside my window. I went out and asked why he would choose such a noisy job to do right outside my room when I was the only guest in the place. He said that usually the tourists left during the day. But, I explained, I obviously had returned. He graciously agreed to work elsewhere and I took a short nap. When I awoke I saw another two-inch cockroach on the floor. I guessed they hadn’t sprayed. I went to the office and explained the situation. Someone was sent with a can of spray, which they left in the room. I went out to explore the grounds again.

Throughout the grounds I discovered several kinds of lizards, some 10-12” long, not counting the tail. One with flappy ears stood on its hind legs and ran from me. I saw some giant hornets (I supposed they were hornets) going in and out of a nest—about four times the size of the hornets we have in the States. I had been looking forward to another dinner special, but the waitress said they couldn’t prepare it for just one guest, so I ordered from the menu. I had a pork chop (more like thick bacon), French fries, and some unknown vegetable. Everything was quite good. I had wanted to try one of several delicious-looking cheesecakes I saw in a glass case each time I came to the restaurant, but I was always too full to do so.

I still had two more nights reserved at La Casa de Don David, but I began considering leaving the next day for Tikal. I wasn’t getting much sleep in El Remate. I emailed my family to let them know that they probably wouldn’t here from me for a while if I left for Tikal, where there might not be phones or Internet. In the meantime, I would still plan to return to Biotopo Cerro Cahui in the morning. Then I would decide what to do next.