What I have gained this summer
From it's hard to be this... lucky in Дар ес Салам, Tanzania on Sep 20 '07
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One genuine appreciation for the dedicated efforts of Tanzanians to make their government work better
One beaded bracelet with Tanzanian flags and AIDS ribbons, given to me by a woman named Sibilina who is living with HIV/AIDS in Moshi town
Like a mining tycoon coming out of a meeting with a Tanzanian government official, I'm carrying invaluable riches out of the country.
About a thousand power outages
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About a million potholes
About a year of my life spent waiting for webpages to load
A healthy sense of disdain for the “yacht club” lifestyle that many development professionals live
Just a scotch more familiarity with Islam and its teachings
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Negative one purse with cash, keys, checks, credit card, passport and cell phone
Positive one life lesson that I really needed to learn
One manual and three brochures on public expenditure tracking written and handed over for translation and publication
Two trips to Zanzibar
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Enough Kiswahili words to make a positive first impression on Tanzanians
The knowledge that I can go anywhere in the world alone and successfully find a community of supportive friends
The knowledge that I can never really go anywhere alone since there are Stanford kids everywhere
Fifty terrible pictures of Mt. Kilimanjaro because every time we drove past it my Tanzanian co-workers would stop the car and make me take a picture
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One ability to ride comfortably in a minivan designed for eight people with my face in someone’s armpit, my mid-section squashed between five other matako (bums) and one leg hanging out the open door
Two wonderful new female colleagues and role models: a perky grandmother from Washington DC and a steely but warm Ugandan who put families and jobs on hold to work for Pact
A bajillion new freckles
One small piece of Mchagga wedding cake, which is actually a goat roast whole with the head and feet re-attached after cooking
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Three organizational capacity assessments that I was ridiculously lucky to be assigned to perform
Two Zanzibari scarves to give to my host mom and sister in Paris, and two Zanzibari scarves for myself
One review of Pact’s tool for assessing the capacity of our partner organizations, which I also would not have been able to do at another organization with a less-supportive boss
A handful of new friends from the Kennedy School of Government that taught me a lot about development assistance and how to spend nights and weekends when you have a nine-to-five job
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A couple hundred pictures of parties that could have been taken in any city in the US
Another fun run-in with my crazy cousin Jim in a very unusual setting
Valuable insight into advocacy and governance in Tanzania through repeated conversations with my supervisor Tweve and other civil society leaders with which I had the opportunity to work
Countless major cases of corruption in the government of Tanzania, from the governor of the Bank of Tanzania embezzling millions of dollars to a minority Member of Parliament getting suspended for six months for requesting an investigation into a suspicious mining contract
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Zero—absolutely zero—punished cases of corruption by upper-level government officials
One draft of a lit review and methodology for an article on civil society assistance
One extremely celebrated 22nd birthday
A new sense of disdain for USAID’s failure to prioritize actual development progress over reporting and branding
Fifty dollars in late fees on the ten Stanford library books that I brought here with me
Two delicious dinners at the Tanzanian ambassador to the UN’s house thanks to the Bahati project kids
Too many free drinks on my birthday
10 or so books under my belt, from Mandela’s autobiography to Life of Pi to Globalization and Its Discontents
At least 200 miles walked to and from work
One Kenyan t-shirt from my roommate Josh
600 newspaper articles on corruption clipped and photocopied for USAID before I connived my way into more interesting work
An understanding of what happens to democracy when the ruling party has a chokehold on the government
One facebook friendship with a Rastafarian fisherman named Andre
Four pairs of earrings, a wood statue, a kanga, a kikoy, a t-shirt, sandals, a necklace, a letter opener, a welcome sign for my door, one over-sized thank you card, and God only knows what other touristy goodies from my co-workers
Negative five kilograms of luggage that I had to give to a security guard because my bags were ridiculously overweight
About 25 kilograms more luggage than I should have been allowed under the conditions of my Qatar Airways ticket (oops)
One burning desire to graduate already so I can get back out into the field and keep doing this kind of work
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