A castle dominates the town of Gazantiep

View of Gaziantep from the castle ramparts
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Part of an article to be published in the Weekend Argus Travel supplement in 2007

Next day I left for Gaziantep crossing a plain of olive groves, pistachios and vineyards. Gaziantep is a large modern city and the main trade and industrial centre of southwest Turkey. Antep Kali (castle) dominates the old town, surrounded by double walls of 100m, broken by 36 towers. Arriving early, two old men-a coal merchant and a leatherworker-invited me to join them for cay (tea) in tulip-shaped glasses. Conversation was limited so I watched life go by, men and boys buying flat ekmek (bread) from the bakery where guys knead dough.

Inns - where heirs of ancient merchants work

View of the caravanserai below Gaziantep’s castle
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Eventually, passing through a gate and crossing a moat, I climbed to another entrance and tunnel before reaching the hilltop where a large canopy hid excavations of a hamam (bathhouse), several villas, and two mosques. The view of the sprawling commercial area blended into the old city, but more exciting were two ancient caravanserais directly below. Due to its location between east and west there are many of these hans (inns), symbols of the past and now trade centres brimming with aubergines, decorated pots, fringed scarves and artisans specialising in copperware and furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl, heirs of ancient merchants.