Neverland, the place where no one grows up.

On Mackinnon's Pass.
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Tramp the Milford Track, one of the greatest walks in the world, CHECK.  The Milford Track runs from the Glade Wharf on Lake Te Anau to the Milford Sound.  The track runs a distance of 33.5 miles (53.5km), which doesn't sound all that far but includes going up and over Mt. Mackinnon through Mackinnon's Pass.

Clinton River Swingbridge, laden with gear.
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I am having serious trouble bring to words all of the thoughts, feelings, and emotions that come out on a trip like this.  First of all the Fiordlands of New Zealand (essentially the southwestern corner of the south island) have some of the highest recorded rainfall in the world.  On average the Milford track receives approximately 7m of rain a year, but that number can range as high as 11m.  So we got wet.  As I mentioned before, the track includes the Mackinnon Pass, so, in addition to rain that day we also got snow.  Proper Canadian weather as a couple of Kiwi couples mentioned to us.

Clinton River
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Day 1: 3 miles to Clinton hut along the Clinton River.  A very easy and flat day, with gorgeous weather.  A decidedly easy day, through Birch rainforest.

Day 2: 10 miles to Mintaro hut, through the Valley of 1000 Waterfalls (trust me they were all falling with considerable force this day).  We were extremely wet (moreso than the Glacier).  10 miles in the rain, over very slippery rock made this for an extremely tiring day.  Not as much physically, but emotionally draining (as opposed to the flooded valleys we crossed).  It is so hard to keep your spirits really high at a time like that.  But this teaches you a lot about yourself - I will elaborate later.

Happy to finally be in warm clothes (noticed everyone's everything drying in the background).
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Day 3: Make or break time.  Once again, 10 miles in distance to Dumpling Hut, which 4 miles include going up and over the 1154m Mt. Mackinnon Pass.  Up isn't the hard part, seriously tiring but not as much physical strain.  Down is the part that hurts.  Coming back to sea level in snow and slush and rain was incredibly strenuous.  We had to use the emergency path (much steeper) to avoid avalanche danger.  By the end of the downhill, my legs were quivering with each step.  And that was not the end of the day.  With a brief lunch stop and a side trip to Southerland Falls (highest falls in New Zealand - 1.5 hour return walk), which was a relief (we got to stash our packs).  And a relatively flat walk to the hut for the night.  To check the weather for the next day, the ranger advised us that if we could see Dumpling Hill it was going to rain, and if you couldn't, it was raining already.

Mackay Fall's, Day 4.
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Day 4: 10.5 miles to Sandfly point to catch a water taxi through the Milford Sound to catch a bus to where we were park.  This day was relatively easy, walking through mostly valley along Arthur's River.  But after the previous day, all you could concentrate on was one step infront of another.

This place seriously was Neverland, in every sense.  From rainforest, to elevated boardwalks, to huge lakes and a sound where I was confident that Captain Hook would be waiting for us.  This really was a place for lost boys.  Everyone here was the same age, regardless of age.  Of the 40 people that were on the track with us at the same time, Kev and I were amongst the first into the huts each nights.  However, there were several people that crushed us.  All older than us.  And the beauty of the track (aside from the natural beauty) was some of the people I met.  There was Stef, the English Postman (he moved much faster than we did, and had the fire going by the time we got there - he should be canonized).  There was Horace (I never got what he did for a profession due to a language barrier), but did finished each day in about 3-4 hours.  At least 55 years old and my hero.  There were Mark and Emma, Dr. (MD) and Dr. (PhD), spectacular people.  There was the female French astronaut, and the mining Kiwi Australians.  Who coincidentally offered me a job in a mine.  Not sure if I'm going to take them up on this.  Age really didn't matter.

0.5 miles to go.
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What I learned about myself is that you don't always have to be comfortable to enjoy yourself (although it helps), as long as you are out of your comfort zone and experiencing new things you are learning.  I was wet, cold, and hungry.  But I was happy.  Things could have always been worse.  And in reality they really could have been, this was not something I was telling myself to get through the day.  It could have been raining harder with more wind, snowing harder, much colder.  Or, I could have been at home and not experienced this part of the world at all.