Slow Boat to Thailand via Pak Beng

Up the Mekong!
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March 11, 2006

We opted to take one last journey along the Mekong before leaving it behind and took a riverboat from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai, the Lao town on the Thai border.  The two possibilities of travel were the slow boat and the fast boat and both are true to their names, though there are more factors to consider than just speed.  The slow boat offers a leisurely two day ride upriver, with about nine hours of Mekong scenery each day, while the fast boat makes the border in a mere six hours at breakneck speeds, unfortunately sometimes literally.  The slow boat carefully navigates the seasonally low waters avoiding submerged rocks, sandbars, and large vortex rapids.  The fast boat, however, relies mainly on luck and speed to avoid disaster, though the required motorcycle helmets and life jackets provide the illusion of safety.  At least once a week, there is some accident involving this method of transportation.  Not only is the fast boat a gamble with one's life, but the unmuffled V8 engines are also wreaking havoc on the riverside wildlife and peaceful local environment.  We chose the slow boat.

Leaving Laos

More Mekong
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Needless to say, the going was slow but pleasant enough, as we read, journaled, and watched the passing scenery.  The shoreline was often adorned with water buffalo, including many white haired and pink skinned albinos.  These silly looking creatures are apparently somewhat rare, though they make up a large percentage of the population in this particular region.

We spent the first night in Pak Beng, a seedy, little town that is just a glorified pier halfway between the Thai border and Luang Prabang.  The second day's boat was much more comfortable, boasting transplanted van seats instead of the hard, wooden benches on yesterday's boat.  It also offered a makeshift bar in the back serving Beer Lao and other refreshment, which made the Canadian and Australian couples across from us very happy.  After two days confined to such close proximity, we had become quite friendly.

A Slow Boat from Our Slow Boat
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The big question of the day was would we make the border before it closed and get to Thailand tonight, or would we have to stay in Laos and deal with our expired visas tomorrow?  We were assured that we would make the border on time by everyone we asked, including the boat driver, the ticket salesman, and about six other seemingly knowledgable people.

At 6:45 PM we unhurriedly arrived in Huay Xai, just one hour and 15 minutes after the border had closed for the day.  Apparently, the slow boat purposefully never makes it in time, thereby forcing the passengers to spend more money and one extra night in Laos.  Our wonderful and relaxed trip in Laos was doomed to end with the hassle of dealing with an expired visa.