Viva Italia - Part Quattro (Four)

Riomaggiore train station tunnel
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Before I finalized my worldwide itinerary, my friends Suzanne and Nolen recommended that I add Cinque Terre to the Italian leg of my trip. I never heard of the 5 fishing villages nestled along the coast of Northern Italy, but trusted their judgment since they did a 1-year tour themselves several years ago.  I am so glad I followed their advice since the five terres are just what most websites describe them as- breathtaking and untouched.  Dubbed a UNESCO World Heritage site, this national park is the perfect place to hike, shop, lounge, or completely veg out while enjoying a small carafe of wine and tortellini.  This is exactly the way I spent my days while I was there.

View from my room. Wouldn't mind waking up to that every morning!
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I first arrived on August 27th after taking 2 trains to Riomaggiore, the southernmost terre just north of La Spezia.  Once I disembarked, I headed down this tunnel lined with beautiful mosaics and illuminated blue glass throughout.  Went up Via Colombo (the main strip) and after 20 minutes found the hostel reception desk. It was such a relief to check-in since the uphill climb coupled with the 30 degree celsius heat made it difficult to breathe. I was so wrong about my trek ending at that point!  After giving my passport to the hostel owner, Patrizia, she led me UP this steep hill, past the main church, across a cliffside overhang as we continued to zig zag up the mountain towards my room.  I am not asthmatic, but I could swear I was having some sort of pulmonary attack! In between sweating and hyperventilating, I kept asking intermittently: Are we there YET (pant pant!)? It was super embarrassing since I thought by now I was in shape.  Patrizia recognized my pain so she offered to take my mini pack.  If I had the energy, I would have laughed when she thought there were heavy books in my small rucksack. Imagine what my larger backpack felt like.

I am not asthmatıc, but I could swear I was havıng some sort of pulmonary attack! In between sweating and hyperventilatıng, I kept asking intermittantly: Are we there YET (pant pant!)?

Cinque Terre pass and footpath map
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Finally we made it to the base of my building and the owner told me that my room was on the top floor.  CURSES!  I couldn't believe I made it up another 240 steps, but I did!  Boy was it worth it!  The view from my room was worth having to squeegee my drenched Ciao Bella tank top after Patrizia left to escort my other suitemates who just arrived at the check-in point. I was relieved to see that my Irish flatmates (Gary and Lisa) were also dripping with sweat when they finally arrived at the suite since I thought I was the only one winded.  I found out later that they took a shortcut since their luggage was much lighter than mine.

Rows of colorful umbrellas line Monterosso's beach
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After I took a much-deserved shower, I went down the hill towards the main square and got a little lost.  I wasn't paying attention on the way up since I was too busy huffing and puffing to notice the route.  I ran into two Americans who told me how to make my way down.  They were also taking photos of the various cement stairwells so they wouldn't get lost either.  Smart idea! On my way to the town, I spotted an Asian women with high-heels on...What was she thinking??  In Cinque Terre?  Vanity over practicality, perhaps? I bet 5 minutes of climbing the steep terrain will help her see the light.

People watching while sipping my vino. I have always wanted to do that in Italy!
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Went back to Riomaggiore train station to purchase my two-day Cinque Terre pass (13€), which grants access to all walking trails, trains and buses.  I would have hiked the following two days, but the heat was unbearable.  Plus, the pathways are heavily-trafficked during the busy July/August timeframe. So I decided to visit all five terres via the regional train system instead.

Monterroso: This is my favorite, northernmost terre.  The train station is situated right next to the beach, where there are rows and rows of octagon-shaped umbrellas with bikini and speedo-clad tourists directly underneath them. I spent most of my time here since this town accommodates the lone traveler-Many shops, restaurants, gelato, and internet cafes to occupy my time.

Vernazza pier
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Vernazza:  This adjacent town is slightly smaller than the one I described previously, but equally impressive.  It was packed with many people since there really is only one primary walkway leading to the beach/pier.  Also saw 20+ tourists embarking on a ferry that takes you from terre to terre (with the exception of Corniglia).

Corniglia:  So my next train stop was the central terre, where I had to scale the hillside just to see the town.  DARN!! Once at the top, I saw a sign that stated: Congratulations, you have just climbed 382 steps. You are at the center of the Cinque Terre. Man, I wish there was more to the town than that, but sadly there wasn't.  I warned my suitemates about this so they skipped this stop altogether.  If you are looking for an alternative to your at-home stairmaster, this place is worth visiting.  I would have enjoyed this climb much more during the fall or winter months.  Scorching heat really makes exercise unpleasant!

Corniglia sign congratulating me on my grueling climb!
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Manarola:  I spent only 30 minutes in this terre mainly since it is an even smaller version of the first two terres I describe above.  It's definitely a quaint little Italian town with a few souvenir shops and some restaurants.  Cute!

Riomaggiore: My home for three days!  This is the very first terre (I listed all the terres in descending order from North to South), where you can start your journey on the Via dell' Amore.  This takes you to the adjacent terre - Manarola.  I spent plenty of time at the small mini markets purchasing bottles of water and fruit to keep me satiated.  My flatmates, Lisa and Gary even treated me to a mojito on my 2nd night - my favorite drink!  I enjoyed this terre the most since I was able to wake up to the most spectacular view.  I even purchased a postcard that features my building situated at the very top so I can always remember my visit!

View of Corniglia from the top of the stairwell.
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I am deviating from my original itinerary and skipping France and most of Spain.  Instead, I wıll be heading back to one of my favorite places - Istanbul.  Will commence my blogging when I land in Madrid mid September!  Until then!