The Inca Trail and Machu Picchu

Glyn approaching Dead Womans Pass, 4200m
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27th October, 5.20am we board the bus for Km82 and the start of the Inca Trail. In between cat naps we see the Andes rise around us as we travel for 2 hours to the village of Ollantaytambo for breakfast. We haggle for the last few essentials, bamboo walking sticks etc before boarding the bus for a further hour or so to Km82 and the start of the trail. After showing our passports and tickets at the first check point we cross the Rio Urubamba by rope bridge and begin the trek. The first day takes us past the archeological site of Llactapata, and climbs to the campsite at Huayllabamba at 2750m, led by Ernesto our guide and 2nd guide Yilbert. The 20 porters are fantastic, carrying loads of up to 30kgs and often passing us at running pace. There is also a cook Apu, and assistant cook who keep us overfed for the 4 days! Each lunchtime we arrive at the lunch spot to find our lunch tent pitched with places set inside on a long camp table (complete with tablecloth), basins outside to wash our hands and cold drink at the ready. Each evening when we reach our campsite our tents are up and dinner is ready, now this is proper camping!!

Glyn, Ivan & Sarah, Dead Womans Pass
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Next morning brekky at 6.30 and we´re off at 7.15 for what many consider the toughest day of the trek to Warmiwanusca or ´dead womans pass´. This involves a long, steep climb to the highest point on the trek at 4200m. Everyone finds it tough going, thankfully theres a light covering of cloud which keeps the temperature down, but its still hot! Early afternoon and we´re all on top (even Glyn! - she get a well deserved round of applause as the oldest in our group) and much shaking of hands, hugging and back slapping ensues as we congratulate each other on our achievement. Fantastic panoramas open up to both sides of the pass. Down hill from here to our camp for the night at 3600m, the highest camp which is a bit chilly but not bad.

The gang at Machu Picchu
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Day 3, up and walking again by 7.15 we climb past Runturacay (Inca military outpost) to the second pass at 3998m and lots of new scenery to take in. We then drop to Sayacmarca (Inca administration buildings) before climbing to our lunch spot. We then continue over the 3rd pass at 3700m, past the ruin of Phuyupatamarca before a long descent to more ruins and our campsite at Winay Winah and a much needed beer! We thanks the porters and give them their well deserved tips as tomorrow they will leave early and descend directly to Aguas Calientes.

Lunch time!
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Final day and we´re up by 4am, Machu Picchu bound. We pass through a check point and start the climb excitedly to Intipunku or ´the sun gate´. After climbing for an hour we reach the sun gate to a find our view of the valley on the far side obscured by dense cloud. Most groups make the descent after waiting for 20 mins or so but we stay and are rewarded as the sun rises and burns off the cloud, slowly Machu Picchu is revealed, breath-taking. We then descend and enter the complex where Ernesto brings us on a 2 hour tour of this amazing place before the first of the tourist trains arrive and overrun the site. A few of us decide to make the ascent of the peak behind Machu Picchu, Huana Picchu, whilst Sarah and a few of the others go to see the Inca bridge, a wooden bridge spanning a void on another Inca trail. We regroup in the village of Aguas Calientes for lunch and tip our personal porters and the guides before catching the train back to Cuzco. Knackered but happy!