You say 'Burma,' I say 'Myanmar'

We are back online after a brutal two weeks without internet access (no non-government-approved international news or communication). Unbelievable that there is a country out here that keeps its people ignorant about the web. Can you say 'short-sighted' boys and girls?

Myanmar (or 'Burma' depending on your political leanings)was our first country under military rule. The debate rages about whether to boycott the repressive goverment or provide tourist dollars and exposure to the people. In the end, I'm glad we decided to visit. The Burmese were the most genuinely friendly people we have encountered so far and their country the least tainted by tourism.

Our most rewarding experience was with a tour guide in Mandalay who walked us through the dizzying array of pagodas, temples, and stupas around the cultural capital for a couple of days. He was very well-read and had tons of questions for us ('Please, tell me about the computer internet;' 'Tera, have YOU been to a bar?' --only tea shops and brothels exist here; 'I think you are not fat enough to be American' --we get this stereotype all the time). We spent the third day with him and his friends celebrating the full moon holiday ('Today, I am not your tour guide, I am your friend!')

In Bagan, we cycled around the ancient city soaking up the hundreds of temples dating back over a thousand years. The villagers go about their daily lives around these precious monuments. Farmers plow the land right up to the edge of the decaying ruins and enterprising souls set up restaurant tables in the shadow of pagodas.

After the most torturous of our four 12+ hour bus trips, we landed in the beautiful Inle Lake region. The resourcefulness of people is astounding. Entire villages (I'm talking two-story houses, boat garages, stores, and schools) have set up ON the water. Everything relies on stilts and long, narrow boats. I expect that one day, the wood will petrify and the place will be the Venice of Southeast Asia. The gondola-style boats even have their own hitch -- they are LEG-powered. When using both hands to drop fishing nets, the standing drivers wrap one leg AROUND the oar to row.

How ironic that the country with the most smiles to offer us is under one of the most oppressive goverments. I hope they have even more to smile about in the future.