Two days isn't enough

We just had two days to tour the Coromandel Peninsular when really you want to stay a lifetime.

The Coromandel Peninsular is a very mountainous finger of land that juts from the North Island of New Zealand on the Pacific side of Auckland City and forms the western arm of the Hauraki Gulf, the shelterd waters of which provide a boating paradise for Aucklanders.

The Gateway of the peninsular is at Thames, about one and a half hours drive from Auckland along state highways 1, 2 & 25.  Thames is a very friendly town, a good comfort stop, it has several cafes and restrooms.  It was originally a gold mining settlement and many of the original buildings are still there.  On Saturday mornings there is a very lively street market in the northern end of the main street called Grahamstown.

From Thames the road (SH25) skirts the Firth of Thames clinging to the narrow strip of land between sea and mountainsides and you pass through small retirement and vacation settlements.  In December the hills are ablaze with the scarlet blossom of Pohutukawa trees, the NZ Christmas Tree.  Beyond Tapu village the road rears up terrifyingly to climb over yet another Mt Manaia ( there are a few in NZ), I have no idea what the height is and would rather not know thanks but there are amazing views. About 40 minutes from Thames (we keep stopping for pics and views so lose track of time) you arrive in Coromandel Town.  Another former gold mining village it is a good comfort stop but with limited food facilities. www.coromandeltown.co.nz 

Coromandel Town's big attraction is the 'Driving Creek Railway' at the northern end of the town.  It is an inspired work of engineering created by potter, Barry Brickill, who with a small team of likeminded enthusiasts has created an engineering marvel and it seems invented a revolutionary means of mountain train propultion. www.drivingcreekrailway .co.nz

Our journey next took us over the central mountain range to Whitianga at Mercury Bay on the Pacific Coast.  Whitianga is a modern town with plenty of accommodation, cafes and restaurants.  We chose to stay at the Albert 6 Motel in the main street it is owned by a Mrs Doyle who is a well known character in the hospitality business in NZ.  The motel room although small was spotlessly clean and had the most comfortable motel beds I have ever slept in ( or was I extra tired). We paid NZ$85 for a twin room with morning tray. We had a delicious meal at the Mercury Bay Club and paid about NZ$10.00 each.  The club is a chartered club and mainly older members and very friendly. Visitors have to be signed in, just ask at the bar. The beach at Whitianga isn't all that great but there are plenty of great beaches nearby. www.whitianga.co.nz

Next morning we crossed the Whitianga Harbour by ferry (NZ$3.00 return) to walk to Cook's Beach, the road connection requires a 15 klm drive around the harbour.  Mercury Bay has very strong James Cook RN connections.  After sailing from the East Coast he dropped anchor here and stayed awhile, to connect with  the local native population and more importantly view the passage of the planet Mercury over the sun which along with observing the passage of Venus at Tahiti were the Royal Navy's orders for him being in the Pacific.  The result of these observations allowed navigators to position themselves on maps.  Up until then I don't think sailors had any idea where they were. Our walk took us along Flaxmill Bay and up to the Cook Commemorative cairn on top of the Shakespear Cliffs.  We then dropped down to Lonely Beach and along to Cook's Beach where at the eastern end Cook made his Mercury observations.  These settlements are mainly holiday and retirement housing and almost deserted in the winter.  Our walk took us 2 hours back by ferry to Whitianga.

We had lunch at the Lime Tree Cafe in Whitianga, lovely food and nice friendly owners.

Continueing south we did a side trip to Hot Water Beach (10 klms).  Here at 2 hours either side of low tide you can dig holes in the sand have have your own private natural hot spa.  We were there at full tide, it was winter, blowing a gale and freezing cold and there was no way I was going to be digging holes in the sand.  The next side trip was to Sailors Grave Beach (about 3klms), a wonderfully deserted beach surrounded by high bush clad hills. On May 6,1842, a young British sailor, William Samson RN aged 22 was drowned at this beach when his ship, HMS Tortoise was on on timber loading station when his ships boat capsized in rough seas and he was buried at the beach.  The grave site was tended by a local family for years but after a senseless vandal attack the area was restored by the RNZNavy and it became a state reserve.  To me it is a wonderful way to honour the unsung participation of British Seamen, both Royal Navy and Merchant Navy in the colonisation of NZ usually under appalling conditions and with great loss of life. To me this simple grave in this gloriously isolated place is a superb memorial, a little bit of England in this outpost of Empire.

Next and final stop on our odyssey is Tairua with it's big shallow harbour, high surrounding mountains and wonderful beaches.  Once again a holiday and retirement town it has a small shopping centre with limited food outlets.  The settlement stretches between the safe harbour beaches and the rugged ocean beach.  Paku (Hill) provides great views of the district, it is badly signposted so go along the Ocean Beach Rd to Paku Drive and follow the summit signs.  At the top there is a steep walking track with photo information boards to read while you get your breath back but do persevere to the trig station at the top, the views are really rewarding.  Across the harbour is the holiday settlement of Pauanui, someimes there is a ferry crossing or drive around the harbour.

The journey back to Auckland takes you over the Coromandel Ranges again on the Kopu-Hikuai Highway and takes about two and half hours.

What did we miss?

Travelling north from Coromandel Town to the splendid coastal isolation of Port Jackson & Fletcher Bay. On the Pacific Coast, Whangapoua Bay and New Chums Beach, Matarangi - a class coastal resort.  From Kouatunu climbing up Black Jack Track (Yes, it's a road) to marvelous Otama Beach (fresh mussels off the beach). Near Hot water beach is Hahei with the Cathedral Cove.  South from Tairua is Whangamata, a surfers heaven and many surrounding beaches.

My advice for Coromandel.  Go in the summer, pack a tent and don't make any arrangements for returning to civilisation as you just might not ever.