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TRAVEL BLOG ENTRY
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“Good, once the groups have gone!” |
It is thought that Chichen Itza was established around 300 AD and began to flourish between 800 and 925 AD. This site has all the signs of mass human sacrifice and glorification of military activity, leading to the belief held by many that the city was invaded by the Toltecs around this time. This fusion of Maya and Totlec culture is evident at the site, where imagery of the Toltec Quetzalcoatl (Kukulcan in Maya) and Chac-Mool (the Maya rain god) are both found.
Chichen Itza was abandoned in the 14th century, the reasons for which are still a mystery.
Having now visited many other sites such as this, we were immediately struck by the mass commercialisation at this site and the large number of tour groups, many seemingly from Cancun.
However after entering, as you approach the site you are immediately struck with the awe-inspiring sight of El Castillo, also known as the Pyramid of Kukulcán. It's 25m high and represents the Maya calendar, rendered in stone. It has 91 steps on each of the 4 staircases, that's 364, plus the platform on top which makes it 365 - the number of days in a year. On each facade there are 52 flat panels - there are 52 years in the Mayan Calendar Round. You are no longer permitted to climb this pyramid.
On a regular basis throughout the day you can hear mass clapping in front of this pyramid, as all the tour groups tested the interesting acoustics of this area. Clapping resonated with a metallic echo.
Beyond this pyramid is the Templo de los Guerreros (Temple of the Warriors) on top of which is a statue of Chac-Mool. It is believed to have been an altar for sacrifices. Many of the columns in front of this building have carvings of images of warriors.
The Plataforma de las Aguilas y Jaguares (The Eagles and Jaguars Platform) has carvings of eagles and jaguars holding human hearts. It is thought that the platform was used for human sacrifice, possibly of captured enemy.
The Gran Juego de Pelota (Ball Court) here is the largest known in existence. Unlike many other sites, here the players are shown wearing padding on both their knees and elbows, and are often depicted carrying either nets or bats. Both stone rings, through which the ball had to be propelled, are still intact, high up the wall.
On strolling around the court, we stopped to look at the carvings of serpents heads that overlooked the ball court. It was then that we overheard an elderly American lady say, "they're hippopotamuses, aren't they?" We both looked away quickly and stifled our laughter!
By mid afternoon the site started to empty noticeably, as the large groups left and you could see the hawkers start to wrap up all their goods. This is the best time to visit the site unhindered and the softer, less harsh sunlight is also better for photography.
The site shuts promptly at 1700, and opens again at 1900 (in Winter) for the Sound & Light show. Whilst this is not an incredibly exciting spectacle, if you are staying in the nearby village of Pisté there is little else to do in the evening, and the cost is already included in the standard ticket price (95 pesos).
We were planning an early start to go to Valladolid the next morning, so we had an early night in our lodgings in Pisté. We had just showered and gone to bed (in the buff as it was a hot, humid night) when the owner knocked on the door and shouted " el agua caliente está a la derecha"... "the hot water's in the right tap." It was one of those moments where you had to be there to appreciate how funny it really sounded.
Unfortunately we hadn't counted on the continuous stream of heavy trucks which started to rumble past from about midnight onwards - the only thing louder was our aircon unit, and eventually we had to turn that off as we were sleeping under nothing more than a threadbare sheet.
To make make matters worse, as if they could really get an worse, the owner started shouting out a woman's name during the night - we thought he was dreaming! All became clear in the morning as we passed at least a dozen empty beer cans and bottles outside his bedroom door!
previous travel blog entry
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