Hiking adventures on Table Mountain

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"Can I do it, can't I" Veen Sukha on Wnberg Ridge

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Published in the Weekend Argus Travel supplement 12/13 August

Cape Town is a popular tourist destination, and on top of most visitors’ lists of things to do, is to climb the spectacular freestanding massif of Table Mountain, either on foot or in the cable car. It’s not a high mountain, 1086m, barely a bunion on a Himalayan foothill, however it holds a veritable feast of myths, adventures, whale watching, bird spotting and fynbos, with over 2000 species (more than the entire British Isles). But surprisingly few Capetonians explore these treats.

Most visitors ascend the mountain via Platteklip Gorge. This crack, almost in the centre of the mountain, is actually a fault running along the spine, ending in the sea near Llandudno. If you’re looking for something a little more adventurous, there are dozens of routes to choose from, everything from challenging rock climbs to adrenaline pumping rock scrambles, such as clinging to a rock face on Nursery Buttress or Muizenberg Peak. Then there are squeezes like the Fat Lady’s Crack, Hole-in-the-Wall or the narrow cracks on the front of Table Mountain. With a good head for heights you could negotiate the narrow ledge along Cairn-Grotto-Fountain, Atlantic Traverse, Right-Face-Arrow-Face or enjoy fantastic views of the City from the Silverstream Traverse. With an Orange Kloof permit and a guide, enjoy the isolation on Hell’s Gate, Room With a View or Frustration Ravine. Alternatively, enjoy a leisurely slog up a ravine – well it is a mountain after all!

"I can do it", but don't tell my husband

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A favourite route on the front of Table Mountain, and surely one of the most breathtaking mountain ascents in the world, is India Venster. The name comes from the fact that, from the Waterfront, it shows the outline of the shape of India, and to the left of India is Africa Face.

The well-marked route follows the line of the cableway but is not for the faint hearted. The Venster is on the lower section, and a little further, this leisurely slog turns into a challenging scramble negotiating cracks and chimneys. (Rock scrambling entails three-point contact, that is, having two feet and one hand on the rock or vice versa.) The tail end of the route passes below the cable station before circling steep crags above the picturesque beaches of Clifton and Camps Bay. Above, you may see and hear climbers on rock routes with names like Cobblestone, Quiver Crag and Staircase.

On the Cups & Saucers pitch above Camps Bay

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Further along the Back Table are a number of buildings, including a museum built in 1973, with much to tell about the construction of the five reservoirs, the oldest being Woodhead built in 1897.

Lion’s Head is the most trampled route on the Peninsula, particularly for full moon forays. Either ‘walk’ to the 670m summit or climb the chains. Whichever way you choose, the 360-degree views are impressive, particularly the Twelve Apostles, a misnomer because there are 18 peaks, with none of them named after Apostles.

To the left of Table Mountain is the massive bulk of Devil’s Peak, criss-crossed with a network of paths. The popular Knife Edge route rewards hikers with spectacular vistas of urban sprawl of one of the most beautiful cities on earth.

One of the oldest legends surrounding Table Mountain is the one about the ‘tablecloth’. The Devil and an old pirate named Van Hunks, who enjoyed sitting on the mountain smoking his pipe, organised a smoking contest. One day the Devil challenged Van Hunks to a smoking contest. Enormous clouds of smoke billowed into the sky and many hours later Table Mountain was covered. Apparently Van Hunks won but the Devil challenged him to a re-match, so their competition continues to this day, creating Table Mountain’s famous ‘tablecloth’.

Further along the Table Mountain chain, between Kalk Bay fishing harbour and Constantiaberg, is Silvermine Nature Reserve. The terrain is flatter and offers a wonderful place to explore with views of two oceans, a warren of caves and fascinating rock formations. Kalk Bay was named at the time of Simon van der Stel, when kilns used to burn seashells to produce lime (kalk) for mortar, used in buildings on the Peninsula. The name Silvermine is a misnomer. In the 1680s shafts were sunk in the area but not one ounce of silver was discovered. There are as many as 107 limestone caves, including Boomslang, Aladdin, Tartarus, Robin Hood, Spookgrot, Musical Drops and Devil’s Pit, but it’s advisable to visit these with someone who knows them.

More recently, an exciting system of hiking trails has been designed by TMNP offering a variety of options along the Table Mountain Chain. Imagine being on top of the mountain at night, a steaming mug in your hands, the fragrant smell of fynbos and the twinkling lights of Cape Town spread out below. The three-day Table Mountain Trail is an upmarket, luxury experience, which is fully catered, portered and guided. The trail begins at the Nelson Mandela Gateway and threads through the city, taking in various historical sites. The first night is spent in the renovated 1880s Platteklip Wash Houses. Next day, there is the option of climbing Table Mountain via Platteklip Gorge or taking the cablecar. The second night is spent in the Overseer’s Cottage above the Southern Suburbs with views across the Indian Ocean. The hike ends at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens.

For the seasoned hiker, there will be a guided six-day Hoerikwaggo (Sea Mountain) Tip to Top Trail, following the spine of peaks from Cape Point to Tafelberg Road. The first phase of this 2-day, 1 night trail opened on 1 August and starts at Silvermine Dam and overnights at the newly completed Orangekloof tented camp. Although the trail is guided, it is self – catering using kitchen facilities as well as an outside braai area. The rest of the Tip to Top Trail will be opened in phases throughout next year.

Despite its splendour and relatively low height, Table Mountain is unpredictable and can be dangerous. It’s advisable to join one of the many hiking clubs until you know the mountain relatively well and then purchase a good guidebook Take care, enjoy and please don’t burn it.

Karen Watkins is the author of Adventure Walks & Scrambles in the Cape Peninsula.

For a (free) Orange Kloof permit, tel. (021) 689 4441 and for more information about the Hoerikwaggo Trail visit www.sanparks.org/parks /table_mountain/ht/