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“Enjoy, find your own treasures to see” |
We flew from Aswan to Cairo. One of the fascinating sights were the streets of Aswan and Cairo and in Cairo all the activity on the street of a major world city. (See The New York Times, March 1, 2007).
The Cairo Museum was incredible, and there are so many things worth seeing it's not really fair to pick and choose. If you are lucky enough to have a day or two in Cairo, spend time here. We had two hours.
When you come in the museum, go straight to the central hall and be sure to see the Narmer Tablet. This is the most ancient example of hieroglyphics and shows a figure who may be the earliest pharoah. It is thought to be a representation of the battles that led to the first union of Egypt and some consider it one of the earliest works of art. See the pyramidion, a capstone from a pyramid, a little farther along in this foyer. Get a diagram of the museum.
You should not miss the statue of Khafre, the pharoah portrayed on the Sphinx. (See the photos for a comparison between the face on the statue and the Sphinx.) If you see nothing else, see this statue, it is truly a startling work of art. It was discovered hidden in a well in the temple beside the Sphinx. You will find it in Room 42.
In Room 32 are the statues of Rahotep and Nofret, husband and wife; the statues are painted and have startling inset eyes that seem to be alive. These statues are older than the pyramids of Gisa. In the same room in a case on the left is a small family group, the dwarf Seneb and his wife and children. The affection she shows for her husband is touching. in fact he was a very important official just after the building of the pyramids and they were buried in a place of honour, in Gisa near the pyramids. Perhaps the ancient Egyptians have something to teach us about accepting differences.
See the huge, strange,and somehow fascinating statues of Akhenaten (Room 3), unlike any other statues of pharoahs in Egypt. All other pharoahs are portrayed as handsome, strong, young. Akhenaten looks wierd. The face is arresting. This man outlawed all other gods in Egypt and substituted one god only, Aten, the sun's disc. In this room, try to find the head of a statue of one of the most beautiful women in history, Nefertiti, Akhenaten's wife. He wrote the world's first love poem, to her.
Nearby are the most famous treasures in the Cairo Musuem, the treasures of Tutankhamen, the next pharoah after Akhenaten. After Akhenaten's death, all the Egyptian gods were restored and an attempt was made to wipe out all memory of Akhenaten and he was referred to as "the great criminal." He may have been deposed in a military coup. Nefertiti disappears from history, we don't know what happened to her. Tutankhamen was originally called Tutankhaten, but the last part of his name was changed to "Amen" to show the old gods were back. This may be why he was buried the way he was and his tomb covered in rubble, to get rid of all traces of Aten. The grave robbers missed the tomb as a result and that is why we have such incredible examples of the best work in the best period of Egyptian artwork and craftsmanship. When you look at the treasures of Tutankhamen, you are seeing some of the very best ancient Egypt has to offer.
Do not miss the solid gold coffin, and the gold mask (see the photos). The surprising thing is how much else was in the tomb. It goes on and on, for room after room, Tutankhamen's chariots, his hunting bows and arrows, his throne and portable bed, several large statues, and countless small ones. Everything he might possibly want, even some game boards to while away the centuries. Today we believe that "You can't take it with you." Tutankhamen disagreed.
Enjoy. Find your own treasures to see, or odd things to take in that you won't find anywhere else, the mummies, perhaps. The realistic paintings on the faces from mummies in the later period, maybe, in Room 14.
This was the trip of a lifetime. Hope we get back there one day. Too much to see in a short time.
previous travel blog entry
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