Fishermans Bastion, Lion statues and wine gushing fountains on Castle Hill

Fishermans Bastion

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A magic moment happened today.

I was entering St Matthias' church - Budapests' principal cathedral that served 500 years as a mosque. It was five to ten in the morning and stepping over the beggars in the entrance I entered the cavernous interior which was full to the brim with people. Myself and the tourgroups were put at the back and as it was a Sunday a service was beginning to start. Music began from somewhere and a bun-haired officious old lady cleared a path from the vestry to the altar. Making an entrance was the Cardinal of Budapest flanked by choirboys. The whole church stood up and joined in with the chanting. I couldn't work out where the momentous music was coming from - it was so clear and natural. I looked behind me and 20ft up in a balcony was a full orchestra including conductor. It utterly utterly charmed me.

The view from Fishermans Bastion

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But Budapest is like that. Its quietly charming. Everything is atmosphere and wandering around Buda this morning you get the feeling that some pretty fearsome things have happened here. Even the stones speak of recent history. Its a fascinating city and its beginning to melt my heart.

Staying over in Buda underneath Varhegy (Castle Hill) has its advantages. Its a short walk to Deli-Pu where I can buy a ticket for Tuesday and the night train to Prague. Then it is through the Victorian streets that surround Varhegy and a short walk uphill to the Vienna Gate. Vahegy is the ancient centre of Budapest, a vast citadel/castle crucial to the cities tumultuous history. Communist leader, king/Emporer, Ottoman Vizier or Fascist Admiral have all made their headquarters here. Its the oldest part of Buda and its medieval walls stretch for a mile along a buff overlooking the wide Danube.

St Matthias Church

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At this time in the morning the streets are deserted. And past 'The Inn of the Red Hedgehog' was St Matthias Church. Next to it is the famous Fishermans Bastion overlooking a sheer drop to the Danube. Its a set of bizarre turrets, cloisters and columns decked in white stone. The views across the Danube from here are very impressive with the Parliament building streaked in white/brown neo gothic and the Chain Bridge nearby.

Following Tarnack Utca takes you to the Siklo - a cablecar ride up from the Chain Bridge. Here stands the Royal Palace and its plentiful museums. Its renaissance courtyards hold surprises such as fountains and statues and the wonderful Budapest History museum (see review). But more interesting was The Labyrinth nearby. I had been told about this from a Swiss friend in London who had visited. And, to be frank, it was getting very hot. There was nary a cloud in the Hungarian sky and my red little face was getting very raw. Escaping the heat for a while seemed the tonic I desperately needed.

A great cavern complex lies beneath Varhegy and the inhabitants carved them into tunnels for times of siege. Before the war they were an attraction called 'The Labyrinth' and it has recently been restored. The tunnels are very creepy and can be explored in near darkness accompanied by throbbing music. The mysterious effect is enhanced by numerous animal statues and cave paintings - one cavern opened out into a lit room with an ornate bubbling fountain gushing with red liquid. I touched the liquid and tasted some as there was a familiar smell to it. It was Rose wine gushing in a fountain!!

I spent most of the day exploring Varhegy and in the evening was befriended by a Hungarian up from Lake Balaton wanting to try out his English. Interestingly, after dinner I headed to Pest to check out some gay addresses. And who should I bump into doing exactly the same thing! Arpad, my new Hungarian friend..