Bruges : Finding my Feet

After a lovely breakfast of fresh bread rolls, jam, cold meat, cheese, fruit, pain au chocolat and lashings of rather weak tea, I started my week of wandering by following the Coupure along the small canal that runs near my B&B. This brought me to the main canal that more or less circles the old city. It is a beautiful place to walk, lush and green with tall shady trees to protect you from the sun. I turned right and worked my way along to the first of the old medieval gateways into the town, Gentpoort (Gent Gate). The town walls are long gone, all that remains are the gates, but these are as grand as any French chateau. This one no longer sits astride the road (that now passes to the side of it) leaving bicycles as the only remaining traffic travelling beneath it.

From there I followed my guide book up Gentpoortstrat to the Church of the Holy Magdalena and Astridpark. Besides an extremely brightly coloured bandstand, the park has an attractive pond, complete with ducks and swans. However it’s a bit quiet and rather too average.

At the top of the park I turned into Geevangenistrat, up Pandreite until I reached the Vismarkt (Fish Market). This looks rather like a Greek temple, with a stone colonnade. Beneath this are heavy stone slabs, usually where the fish is displayed. Today however it is being used for part of the weekly flea market. I very nearly bought a watercolour and ink painting but decided that the artist was overdoing the mass production of them. He only seemed to paint three different views and each was pretty much the same as the next. It’s a shame his style was lovely.

Now I cross one of the bridges into the Burg, passing under a gold encrusted arch. The square is currently full of raised seating form some kind of event, taking place at the Town Hall. Sadly this rather spoiled the view, but did give you an excellent view the some of the buildings.

I’ve not been to this part of Bruges before. The decoration is completely over the top. I hope someone takes the scaffolding down soon so that I can get a good picture of it. I’m now in an area packed with other tourists. Along with them I find the site of the old TIC and remember I had read something about it moving. I will need to get to t’Zand, where it has moved into the new Concert Hall. I’ve been to that part of Bruges before. The very first time I came with Newbury College we were dropped off at the Zand.

Before leaving the Burg, I briefly wander into the Town Hall. I’ve decided to leave the Museums to later in the week, so decide not to go upstairs just yet. Similarly I poke my head into the Church of the Holy Blood. However it is a Sunday and there is a service underway. I never like going in when this is happening, it makes me feel uncomfortable and I think it is disrespectful to those worshiping there. Instead I carry on to the Markt. This enormous and impressive square is as always dominated by the massive Belfry. Unlike my last visit in October last year, the square is clear of market stalls and I can see the statue in the centre of it. It is an impressive space.

It’s a strange thing to think I know the route to the Zand. However I have been there twice before and easily remember the way. The road is a main shopping street (although most appear to be closed) and I pass some familiar names such as C&A, Etam and a shop called M&S but I’m not sure if the last one really is Marks and Spencer or not. I also spot the Tintin shop. I’d love to get my brother the iconic red and white rocket that features in one of the books, but it’s hugely expensive – and how in heavens name would I get it back on the Eurostar?

When I get to the Zand, I recognise it very easily. In the centre is a fountain surrounded by fun statues. There are the four bathing beauties who represent the four major cities of Flanders – Bruges, Antwerp, Gent and Courtrai and a group of mermaids and cyclists. However the Zand has changed dramatically since my first couple of visits. Towering above it is the new red tiled Concert Hall. It is here I find the relocated TIC and it is certainly an impressive office. It’s a large open room, full of light and modern technology. I found they had some computers for public use, but sadly these were not for sending emails. I did however get a copy of the visitors guide I had been downloaded back home. I asked about the day trips to the fields of Flanders, but you have to book these directly with the company. I’ll give this a go a bit later on.

I leave the Zand via St Jan in De Meers street, and then wander off down Goezeputstrat – a very pretty and quiet street. Here I find an attractive garden hidden behind an open gate. This turns out to be the Old St Jan Hospital. There was a lovely medicinal herb garden with all the usual suspects plus hemp agromony, a plant I normally see beside the river back home. I sat here for a while, wondering why I could hear a very unchurchlike organ playing. When I wandered back out into the street I found an organ grinder in bowler hat and clogs. I think this must be the first time I’ve every seen anyone actually wearing them! He certainly put on a good show. He even let kids come up and try playing it. Most struggled though as turning the handle was very hard work.

By now I have worked up a bit of an appetite, but I’m not really sure which restaurant I should go for. In the end I choose the Maria van Boergondie restaurant, just outside of the cathedral. That should have got alarm bells ringing! All I really wanted was something light (especially at the advertised prices), but ordered a seafood salad at a stonking €21.50! However it was exceptionally good. There was loads of smoked Scottish salmon domed over a mountain of green salad, plus cooked sole and huge prawns. It took me ages to get through it all. One of the most notable features of this restaurant are the loos. First off they are unisex. Secondly they are ultra modern with frosted glass doors and, rather disconcertingly, sides. Well I know all you could see was a bit of a shadow, but that really is more detail than I need.

Now fit and ready for action, I decide to hit my very first Museum – the Historical Gruuthuse Museum. It costs me €6 but that does include an English audio guide. The building itself is really beautiful but the collection doesn’t end up playing second fiddle to it. It is full of marvellous floor tiles, medieval woodwork, Bruges tapestries, silverware and ceramics. There is also a magnificent kitchen, full of gadgets and storage vessels. Rather disconcertingly this is next to a room containing highly decorative medical jars and sketches of people with physical abnormalities.

It was time to take another little break, this time for an ice cream, at the flea market on the Dijver. Deciding which flavours to have gives me a bit of trouble, so I combine Pistachio with a Raspberry sorbet. The seller gives me a really strange look, but hey I’m on holiday! Another almost purchase. I find some lace bobbins in the market. It looks like they are selling for about €1 each, which actually sounds a bit steep to me.

A little further up from the Gruuthuse, is the Groeninge Museum. This is dedicated to artworks created by the Flemish school of painters. I buy myself a ticket, secretly hoping that I will build up an attractive little collection to decorate my photo album with. Sadly it looks like you get the same one wherever you go. Here I have to pay a bit extra for an audio guide and leave my bag in a locker. Actually this is a blessing since it is cutting into my shoulders rather badly.

I must confess to being a bit of an art snob. How can anyone compete with the Italian renascence artists? This misconception is immediately set right by the power and strength of Flemish Primitive art. There are some wonderful representations of Judgement day with some seriously unpleasant demons. I’m not sure but one seems to have another rather firmly by the short and curlies. Another painting in this room is quite frankly a jaw dropper. It is one half of a pair of paintings. In the first a corrupt judge is arrested for accepting bribes. In the second the judge is tied to a table whilst three men begin methodically flaying him alive. They look to all intents and purposes like Ray Mears skinning a deer. One man has removed the skin from one leg and is just getting to the tricky bit around the victims toes. The paintings were created as a reminder to local justices, that they should honest, upstanding members of society or suffer the consequences!

There is an American couple with a young boy wandering around the gallery. Unfortunately the child seems particularly taken with this grisly image. They keep moving on, but whenever they take their eyes off him, he returns to the painting. They are becoming more and more embarrassed by this and try hard to divert him. Bet they never realised their little darling would become such a dedicated art lover.

What really strikes me most about the Flemish painters is the realism and detail of the images. In particular I am dazzled by the portraits of Memling. He was a German artist who lived and worked in Bruges and most of the paintings currently on display form part of a temporary exhibition. I’m very lucky to see it, as it will be moving on to New York in October. The attention to detail in these paintings is exceptional. One figure is shown wearing a gold ring with a family crest on it. Another shows the subjects hands resting on the frame of the painting.

I thoroughly enjoyed visiting this gallery and was bowled over by the art within it. Unfortunately they obviously felt they should represent modern Flemish artists too. To my mind this was a waste of space.

After the museum, I wandered back to my B&B, enjoying the late evening sun. It had been an exciting and enjoyable day, but my feet were killing me. This is one of the side effects of visiting museums, all that standing and gentle wandering. Back at base I discover that you really can watch the BBC in Belgium. Excellent, I’ll be able to watch the last episode of Coast today.

After the success of yesterday’s meal, I decide to try one of the other specials on the menu. I decide to go for the pork casserole, which I was a little sceptical about as it contained pineapple. I had it with chips rather than rice and it was pretty good. I’ve also discovered that the first course never alters if you have the special. It was the same vegetable soup.

Nicky was wondering about the British group who came yesterday. They had reserved a table, but so far hadn’t turned up. We couldn’t decide what part of Britain they came from. I suspected London, but she wasn’t so sure. Luckily a little later on they did arrive, so I was able to listen in to their conversation. My guess is that they are actually from Essex. They obviously really enjoyed the food, but typically were not so sure about the sauces. I spend most of my time reading a book between courses. I’m reading the latest book by Anne Hawes, all about her life in Italy. It’s a little bit odd reading about one country when you’re in a totally different one.

Tomorrow I shall have to find somewhere else to eat, as Nicky’s restaurant will be closed for two days. Apparently she is planning to make the most of the fantastic weather and will be going to the seaside. I assumed this would be Zeebrugge, but apparently the place to go is Knokke, which is a really classy seaside town.