Under the Bhodi Tree

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          For years, India has long been the serious traveller's mecca. Though one of the poorest countries in the world, the subcontinent is overflowing with cultural, spiritual, and historical wealth. Any traveller has to make some serious decisions when they come to India because there is so much to see and do and most backpackers can only scratch the surface after spending a number of months traipsing about this diverse land. India has more than its fair share of World Heritage sights and, of course, what is one of the world's most famous: the TajMahal. Unfortunately, a visit to this architectural wonder is most certainly not off the beaten path, but many worthwhile sites are. Surprisingly, the most sacred place in the Buddhist world, the spot where the Buddha gained enlightenment, is off the beaten path - for Western tourists, anyway. 

          The town of Bodhgaya can get pretty busy in the months of December and January because the Dalai Lama usually spends these months in the town. He often gives Dharma talks from a dilapidated stage in a large field and so it is a great opportunity to hear him speak - or maybe even meet him! In this small, dusty town in Northeast India sits Mahabodhi Temple, a World Heritage site, where the descendant of the Bodhi tree that Siddhartha Gautama sat under in order to reach nirvana, can be found. The beautiful tree, which has a gate around it adorned with mementos from Buddhists the world over, sits behind the temple itself, which was built in the 6th Century AD. Mahabodhi Temple is on the site of the original temple built by Emperor Ashoka eight hundred years before in honor of the Buddha. The Diamond Throne, a sandstone slab under the tree, marks the spot where the Buddha sat waiting for enlightenment. Like most temples, there has been much reconstruction, but there are a few of the original sculpted stone railings hailing for the Sunga Period (184-72 BC).

          Monks and nuns do their sitting or standing meditation around the tree and its surrounding stone stupas. Each monk wears the robe color of his respective nation and so the area around the temple is full of brown, yellow, red, and orange figures walking peacefully. Nuns in pure white, their shaved heads a stark contrast to those of female tourists, meditate a few steps away from their male counterparts. Visitors must walk around the temple in bare feet and many tourists choose to meditate on the cold marble tiles in front of the tree itself. There are three statues of the Buddha in the complex where worshippers can also silently pay their respects. The first is inside the triangular stone temple itself, the second is in a glass box in front of the Bodhi tree, and the third is a large, colorful Buddha sitting on a lotus in the middle of a lake. Throughout the complex there are signs indicating spots where the Buddha meditated after he gained enlightenment and women in colorful saris and scampering children can be seen promenading through the same grounds  Siddhartha  walked on 2,000 years ago.

          The temple complex is probably one of the most peaceful places in India, because it is cut off from hawkers, cooking fires, and careening vehicles. There are lovely flowers planted along the paths for a nice stroll and plenty of trees to provide a respite from the glaring sun and heat. Many visitors spend quite some time chatting as they watch the monks and other visitors meandering through the area. If you wait, a leaf may fall from the Bodhi tree and it perfectly acceptable to take it home as a souvenir (but don't even think of pulling a leaf off this most sacred tree!).

          Once you are finished at the temple, there are restaurants outside where you can enjoy a masala soda (spiced soda water) or a delicious Indian meal. If you're lucky, you may even get to see a local Communist rally complete with drumming and red flags! The town of Bodhgaya has a few clothing and book stores, but it's not a place to get your souveniers. The center of the town has a few shops and restuarants, but the main thing to do here is to visit the temple. If you have time, you can check out the Buddhist temples from all over the world. Many countries have built temples and monastaries in their national style and it is a good opportunity to see the differences in the ways Buddhist nations practice their religion, especially if your travels do not extend to those countries. The Thai and Burmese temples are probably the most impressive and the grounds of the Burmese temple are very nice and make for a cool and quiet respite from the chaos of the streets. There are many hotels and guesthouses to stay at and plenty of roaming cows and goats in the streets to keep you company.

          Bodhgaya is a bit of a break from the usual chaos of India, but even though this is where the Buddha was at his most peaceful, don't expect a place of serenity. It is a small town, though, and only a few Western tourists make the trek out here. It is a four hour train ride from Veranasi to Gaya and then a half hour moto rickshaw ride will get you to Bhodgaya. The Mahabodhi Temple is one of India's sites that shouldn't be missed, but luckily for the tourist-weary traveller, it is.