Gawai in the longhouse

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We travelled with Willie, Darren and Catherine from our hike, as well as Charlie from the UK and Tony, our much abused driver, by 4WD to a Berawan longhouse, where some of Willie's family lives.

It was quite a trip, we got into the spirit of Gawai early, stopping for "Huda" beer while we waited for the second car in our convoy to catch up.  Tony is not a slow driver, by any stretch.

We arrived at the longhouse and were greeted by groups of kids hanging out the windows, and Willie's uncle motioning us all inside.  We were welcomed in to the main verandah by two girls in beaded sashes carrying rice wine for all of us.  We each had to down two tumblerfulls, and then were greeted warmly by some of the adults who had gathered to see us inside.  We were invited to leave our things in the individual house belonging to the chief, and then we all sat outside taking in the party preparations.

The longhouse is huge, probably 300m from end to end, and still expanding on the far side.  Each family has a separate house that opens onto the covered verandah out front and to yards out back.  The verandah is where most of the Gawai party was being held, so it was decorated with vines and flowers, and a podium had been set up.  Kids were running in groups between all of the houses, and all of the "moms" were busy cooking and getting place settings ready.  Someone sat a huge plate of cakes in front of us, and we happily dug in...we had no idea that dinner was still coming!  After making a significant dent in the cakes and in two cases of Huda that we had brought with us, we were ushered into the center house, and sat in front of a long line of serving dishes and places.  We sat down to a delicious dinner, all locally grown produce and meats.  We were introduced to Willie's brother, and several other people while most of the kids were happy to laugh at us and smile.  

After dinner the program started, Willie's brother officiating.  A few speeches opened the festival, then the karaoke competition started.  Between every few karaoke numbers, traditional music was played and men and women got up one at a time to dance the traditional dances.  The "grandmas" had a lot of fun teaching Michelle, Susan, Charlie and Catherine  to dance, and called upon us frequently to get up and try again.  Willie did the men's dance many times, always to cheering and applause (obviously, he knew what he was doing).  The reward for a good try at dancing was rice wine, and we definitely got our share.  So much so that Willie convinced Michelle to join the karaoke contest.  If she could remember it, she might be embarassed...at least according to Susan's recount.  The evening was a fantastic, colorful blur, and Michelle and Catherine went to bed around 430am. 

Figuring the party was over, our crew got up around 830 and wandered outside.  In fact the party was only really beginning!  A dance was done to wake up the gods, and all of the women did a parade up and down the longhouse, all the girls in traditional costume, all the older women beating the ground with decorated bamboo poles.  Willie herded us outside to watch the annual sacrifice (food and 4 pigs), which Westerners seldom have the privilege of observing.  We spent the next few hours watching the ceremony, and periodically being splashed by buckets of water (for good luck).  We stumbled back inside, looking for more watter. 

Things had definitely calmed down, the drumming that accompanied the ceremony was quiet, and most people had returned to their individual quarters.  Michelle had a nap, Susan wandered around talking to people.  Lunch was served around noon, and Willie's brother gave a really nice good bye speech to the visiting crew.  We presented our gift (coloring books for the little kids), and Michelle gave a short speech of heartfelt thanks.  After lunch was put away, and things had quieted again, Willie sent Susan to round up everyone to go back.  We all headed out to the verandah, and THAT's when the party REALLY started.

No one can leave the longhouse without a few good bye traditions, the first of which is rice wine.  Two tumblerfulls after good bye singing seemed a nice way to head off.  Then the challenges started.  You can get someone ELSE to drink if you sing a song, so Michelle pulled out some Sacred Heart favorites and got the grandmas drinking.  Then they got everyone else drinking.  Then the mud slinging.  The idea is to bring a piece of home with you wherever you travel, and it goes on your FACE.  Sago Palm flour is lucky, and that goes in your HAIR.  Then you get up and dance the dance you remember SO well from last night.  Then there is a procession!  It was definitely the most joyful goodbye celebration we had ever seen, and it was hard to believe that it was for us!  Several people tried to convince us to stay, and in the mass confusion that followed we got out the door missing Darren and having picked up a friend of Willie's.  After a brief stop at Sarawak's biggest lake (sober up time) we returned to haul Darren to the car and drop Willie's friend at home.

Then there was some sickness involved in Tony's car.  (Not Susan or Michelle though, phew.)  Poor Tony.  Four hours of driving in a car full of rice-wine addled conversation.  At one point we all got out (rice wine goes STRAIGHT through you) and Michelle pointed out a bright yellow star.  An exasperated Tony corrected that no, that was actually the moon.  Poor Tony.   We finally made it back to our hostel in Miri and received a warm, but blurry welcome.  Passing out face first into our twin bunk beds was sweet. 

We leave Borneo packed full of experience and memories, and several promises to return.