Dev Devali- Benares

Yes, Devali continues. It seems there is always a good reason to celebrate in India. Devali actually ended two weeks ago, however, in a festival unique to the city of Benares (where my good friend Abby used to live) they celebrate Dev Devali. This is supposed to be when the gods celebrate Devali. A video of this festival was one of the first things I saw in India that I promised myself I would see while I was here.

So, I left Friday night on the Shiv Ganga Express train from Delhi to Benares. It’s actually a great train....you leave Delhi around 6:30pm and arrive in Benares around 7:30am the next morning. Eiad and I cooked an amazing Syrian dinner before going to the station. So, I just arrived at the train, found my seat, read for a few hours, then slept till Benares. Yes, I went alone on the train. I wouldn’t recommend it for someone who isn’t used to the train system here, but it was fine for me. I was in the second sleeper class which means I had a bunk and no A.C. (not that you need one this time of year.)

Abby flew in Saturday from Delhi and met me in Benares. We were lucky enough to have one of her past professors from Indiana University, David, and his family living in Benares for the year doing research. So, I was not only able to get a tour of the city by Abby who lived there for a year, but was also able to get a tour of the local temples and holy sites by a professor of religious studies whose specialty is Hinduism. With this combination its no wonder I had such a wonderful weekend.

Benares is famous as a holy city for the Hindu religion. The ghats (steps into the water) of the city wind along the banks of the holy Ganges river for miles. The river is definitely the lifeblood of the city, central to all activities and daily life. Walks along the ghats, bathing in the holy Ganges, and sending out candles to float into the water are all daily occurrences here.

We spent a lot of the weekend around or on the river. David, his lovely wife Sandy, and their son Nathan all openly shared their immense knowledge of the city and Hinduism in general. Nathan is only 12 but was able to teach me a lot about Hinduism and the various gods (the advantage of having a father who is a professor I guess.) We visited the ghats, temples, pipul trees, and little shrines all over the city.

The pipul trees (forgive me if that is not spelled right) are the kind of tree that the Buddha found enlightenment under. If you have ever seen pictures of temples in Southeast Asia, you will notice the common shape of the roofs coming to a high point. This shape is inspired by the shape of the leaves of this tree. The trees are historically important and also considered to be a channel to and embodiment of certain Hindu gods. Many of the trees are worshiped, which is what David was doing his research on. In the photos you will see anything from faces and feet attached to the trees to offerings, and even little beds suspended in the branches for the goddess who lives in the tree.

The main event of the weekend was the Sunday night celebration of Dev Devali. Like Devali in Delhi, many of the small terra cotta lamps were lit along with firecrackers, Christmas lights, funeral pyres, torches, and bonfires. In Benares, though, this spectacle is centered on the steps of the ghats. Row after row of these tiny lamps are light and placed along the stairs. It illuminates miles of these stairways along the river with thousands of tiny lamps. The best way (and the way we did it) to view the celebration is from the water. Every boat man in Benares is booked this night. We had 7 people in our boat plus our two captain, various snacks, and chai of course.

It was a really magical evening. Two friends from Britian joined us for the evening chatting as we floated down the river, watching the lights and listening to the music. Along with the lights on shore, everyone buys little bowls made of dried leaves that are filled with flowers and a candle. These little floats are lit and left to float down the river so that even the water is illuminated for the celebration. Abby was told that you can make a wish on these lamps and if, when you last see your lamp floating away, it is still lit; then your wish comes true.

We ended the weekend with a temple-hoping morning on Monday and breakfast at a great little bakery. Abby had to fly out on Monday afternoon and stuck around to enjoy a relaxed afternoon with the family till my train left Monday night. Thanks to all involved! It was a great weekend!