Paihia - Bay of Islands

Despite the fact that we're making our way south through NZ, we travelled a few hours north to visit the Bay of Islands, which is literally 150+ islands in beautiful turquoise waters.  We went on an island tour with a difference - the idea was to seek out dolphins to swim with, and see some islands on the way.  There are a number of tour operators that run similar excursions - each visit different sections of the bay known to be popular feeding areas for the dolphins and work with each other so that most areas are covered.  We were warned that, although we had a 96% chance of sighting at least one group of dolphins (they actually offer you a free return ticket if not), there were certain conditions that had to be met in order for us to actually be permitted to swim with them.  We were lucky enough to encounter a massive group of dolphins who seemed more than happy to swim alongside the boat and perform tricks for us for a long time, but unfortunately because there was a baby amongst them (only weeks old and very cute), we weren't allowed to join them in the water.  Apparently, the baby dolphins are more than happy to play but need to feed every three minutes (!).  We would disrupt the feeding schedule which could have serious consequences.  It was still an amazing experience to see wild dolphins up so close. Apparently, dolphins in captivity have an average life span of only five years, but live to be around 50 in the wild.  They looked pretty happy.

Waitangi in the Bay of Islands region is the place where the treaty between Maori chiefs and the British was first signed in 1840.  Debates over the land rights of the Maori is still a hot topic nowadays (after all, they did get here first!).  The treaty signified an agreement between the two peoples to live and work together as one nation.  A visit to the Waitangi National Reserve (where the treaty was signed) was something we weren't really excited to do, but felt we should.  It was actually really interesting, mainly because we had a Maori show us round the grounds and tell us a little of the history.  He said that, although he comes from a line of pure-blood Maoris, he has married a Pakeha (Maori word for a person of European descent), which is obviously happening more and more now and demonstrates how things change. 

We watched our first He Toho (cultural performance), which included poi (a women's formation dance that involves singing and swinging balls attached to string) and the haka (war dance made famous by the All Blacks) and other songs and dances.  I was honestly so moved by some of the music that I had goosebumps.  Some of the female dancing reminds me a bit of Hawaiian dancing - with very graceful hip and hand movements.  It's hard not the laugh when the men do the war dance with all that stomping and slapping of the thighs with tongues out and wide eyes.  Looks funny rather than scary.  I hope we get to see more of the traditional Maori performances though.

Within the Waitangi Reserve we also went inside a marae (meeting house), sacred to the Maori.  These would normally be used for weddings, funerals, worship and social events.  Usually each Maori tribe would have their own marae, but this one was designed to be shared by all tribes.  It was typical in appearance though, with intricate wood carvings in and outside and woven reed panels made by Maori women.  We had to remove our shoes before entering and our guide treated us to a traditional welcoming ritual, chanting and moving along the walls touching the carvings.