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I was very glad that I arrived in Bangkok with John who has been here many times.It's not the easiest place in the world to navigate and such is the traffic it was still an hour from the bus station via taxi , skytrain and boat to the backpacker ghetto that is Khao San.If i'd been on my own it would have been a lot longer as I tried to figure out that convoluted journey.
It's a real contrast to be back in a big city. I was walking from the jetty laden with my backpack and every 30 seconds it was "Hello. Where you go? " from taxi and tuktuk drivers. Every one seems to be chasing the tourist dollar,and who can blame them.
The first night was a sleepless one.I had a choice as I lay sweltering in the heat. Either having the revelry and screeching motorbikes or close the window and listen to the fan clunk and bang like an industrial loom.
The next day I found a much nicer and quieter place.The owner is motherly and has warned me about certain ladies who drug their new friends and relieve them of their cash. I promised solemnly not to take any ladies up to my room.
I took a bus out to the huge Chatuchak Market.Thousands and thousands of stalls selling all sorts from cut priced clothes to trendy artwork. I was worried that the pet section might include various exotic animals but apparently that's all ' under the counter ' these days. Pity it's not stopped altogether. I did see tiny hedgehogs , baby squirrels and a lot of puppies that also looked far too young to be sold.Finally succumbed and bought a souvenir, my first of this trip! Couldn't resist a wooden frog. It 'croaks' when you brush a peg along it's serrated back. Every home should have one.
I took a few photos as you do.I've found that most people don't mind their picture taken as long as you ask. Of course there are times when you want the candid shot but I figure if they don't know , they don't mind.
I've discovered that I'm irresistible to biting insects. A day doesn't go by without an ambush by mossies , ants , bed bugs or other unseen but felt attackers. I have a grand collection of little scars where I've scratched .I've found that a lot of beds harbor nasties , even in the places that seem clean. My own sleeping sack comes in useful and keeps some of them at bay. A liberal spraying of DDT in the evenings just lets them know where to find me I think.
The next day I went to Chinatown as I particularly wanted to see the 'Golden Buddha.' The story is interesting ,so to plagiarize the Rough Guide - It was cast in the 13th Century and covered in stucco - a common ruse to conceal valuable statues from thieves.The disguise was so good that no one guessed what was underneath until 1955 when it was accidently knocked and revealed a patch of gold. Yep , a solid gold buddha and at over 3m tall , the worlds largest. Apparently it launched a countrywide craze for tapping away at plaster buddhas! This one at Wat Traimit is the most valuable ; by weight alone at over 10 million dollars.
I looked around another temple. This one has a stuffed crocodile outside ( no , really) , apparently it was captured nearby about 50yrs ago when they feared it might snack on the locals. For some reason they've kept crocs ever since. Next to the stuffed one is a big beast that is very much still with us.
After that I wandered around through the narrow streets before jumping back on the boat. At the ferry I saw masses of big fish by the jetty. I wondered why until I saw kids throwing in bread. The fish became a furious ball , churning the water as though it was boiling. I then saw all the sacks of bread crusts for sale and realised they'd learnt it was a cushy life here.
The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo are 'must sees' for any self respecting tourist.The palace dates from 1785 and is incredible.A jumbled mass of buildings and spires that sparkle and shine like a shiny new thing. It does look a little like a film set that could have been finished only yesterday and their waiting for the paint to dry. In the museum I found out that extensive renovation goes on every 50 years , hence the newer than new look. I don't know; I think I like things to look their age , not tweaked every five minutes. It's the Joan Rivers of palaces.
Another trip out was to the flower and veg market . No surprises what that was like really , but obviously there is a big demand for garlands . Lots of personal temples are covered in them.
I've enjoyed Bankok although i've only seen a tiny part of it , partly because the traffic is so bad , and partly because I've been very lazy. Luckily I was staying a two minute stroll from the ferry and went to those places accessible by boat.
I can't believe how quickly the time is going . As I have to be out of the Country in two weeks time I shall be on a bus to Pattaya tomorrow.
The photos linked to this are a little out of sequence as I've tried to have relevant photos alongside the text.




previous travel blog entry
nipper says:
Life seems tough. Eat garlic that might help with the bites. your travells are wonderful to read. I suppose someone has to do it. Im having a party in november (my 30th) any chance you'l be back vegas style. keep up the good work. love nicki xxxxxxxx