Primate Research in the Forests of Kenya
In and around Kenya
My name is Alicia Rich, and I am a double major in Biology and Anthropology. I have been dreaming of a career as a field primatologist for most of my childhood and adult life. So far I have completed extensive captive research with gorillas, a one month field school in Primate Behavior and Ecology (in Costa Rica), and a semester of studies in Primatology at the University of Calgary. This will be my biggest and most important step in reaching my goal. I can hardly wait!
I will be spending six months studying tumbilis. That's Swahili for monkeys, blue monkeys (Cercopithecus mitis) to be exact. I have been offered a position of research assistant to Dr. Marina Cords of the Department of Ecology, Evolution, and Environmental Biology at Columbia University. I am to assist her in a project concerning female cooperation and inter-troop aggression in blue monkeys.
I will be living on the edge of Kakamega National Forest in western Kenya (near the border with Uganda). I will be spending ten hours each day following around four different troops of blue monkeys and tracking certain aspects of their behavior. This adventure begins on June 11, and I will return December 1. I will be checking in with my travel blog on the occasions that I have a chance to ride into the nearest town of Kakamega to use an internet cafe and gather supplies. Otherwise, my communication with the outside world will be limited. Wish me bahati!
Route taken and entries by Real Traveler IUP Cook Honors College
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1
The Journey that Never Ended
I just arrived at the station last evening around 9:00 PM (Kenyan time). It was the longest, most grueling journey of my life. I left Pi... Continue reading »
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2
On Becoming the Minority
Race has never become such a forefront issue in my daily life. I always considered my self tolerant of racial diversity. In fact, the... Continue reading »
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3
Let the Researching Begin
I have officially completed day three of my researcher training, and am officially feeling frustrated with my skills. On day one, I was great... Continue reading »
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4
Nyani Wabai
Here at the station we have four main study groups. My particular group is called T West South. It is the largest group, consisti... Continue reading »
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5
Matatus and Boda Bodas
I thought I should write a bit about my various forms of transportation here in Kenya. To travel to town I have to take something called a M... Continue reading »
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6
Research Frustration
I’ve experienced this feeling before. It hits you in a sudden rush when you just cannot stand to search for a group of individuals that seem... Continue reading »
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7
The Day of Firsts
Yesterday went down as the worst blue monkey day in history. Today was a very different and redeeming story.
We found the monkeys firs... Continue reading »
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8
Just Another Adventure
Today I went on an adventure with some of my coworkers (Grace, Corey, and Leah). The work that I do is in the southern part of Kakamega Fo... Continue reading »
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9
Cultural Relativism
I love anthropology. I haven’t taken an anthropology course yet that I didn’t feel I just simply clicked with. In many of my anthropolo... Continue reading »
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10
Obama
I think Obama has a bigger fan base in Kenya than anywhere in the U.S. I have been reminded time and time again that Obama is, in fact, born... Continue reading »
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11
Day of Destruction
I started the day with my headphones on, so I never even saw it coming. I was listening to my Ipod while I entered some data. Around 8:... Continue reading »
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12
The Dead Trees
I realized yesterday how quickly the forester’s plans can be put into action with no discussion or further consideration. Two men with machet... Continue reading »
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13
Under Arrest
This week has been full of surprises. The station manager who arrived with me left for home a week ago to attend a funeral. Shortly after... Continue reading » -
14
Canopy Lookout
There is a place I like to go here. When I have a day off and I’m not stuck in Kakamega getting supplies, I like to pack my bag with a thermo... Continue reading »
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16
“Eat your dinner...There are starving children in Africa.”
I do not really know what hunger feels like. I don’t know what a body begins to do after a day with no food, and then another, and then final... Continue reading »
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17
Rain
Rain means something completely different here than it does back home. In Pennsylvania rain is that annoyance, that reminder of the gray glo... Continue reading »
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18
Kisumu
I knew before I even left that the right matatu wouldn’t show, or at least that it wouldn’t be on time. Since I was old enough to worry about... Continue reading »
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19
My Breaking Point
Today was the breaking point. This was the second time I’ve cried since I got here, and the first time I let everyone see me lose it. I... Continue reading »
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20
A Female Africa
Africa is carried on the heads of women and children. They are the silent servants of a continent and its men that will never thank them for... Continue reading »
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21
The Baboon Theory
9/16/2008
As I switched the month on our World Wildlife Federation calendar Charles began asking me questions about that month’s animal, an o... Continue reading »
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22
The Women's Liberation Movement of Isecheno
9/16/2008
I decided to have my hair braided. This is partly because it is easier and more comfortable, but also because I wanted to be a part... Continue reading »
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23
The Women's Liberation Movement of Isecheno
9/16/2008
I decided to have my hair braided. This is partly because it is easier and more comfortable, but also because I wanted to be a part... Continue reading »
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24
The Big City
I left my house just before 6:00 AM. Nine hours and several matatus later I found myself feeling utterly out of place in Nairobi, the capitol city... Continue reading »
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25
Stuck Between Two Worlds
I’ve grown used to feeling like a lonesome spot in a room full of people that belong. Sometimes I love it, sometimes I hate it, but mostly I just i... Continue reading »
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26
Stuck Between Two Worlds
I’ve grown used to feeling like a lonesome spot in a room full of people that belong. Sometimes I love it, sometimes I hate it, but mostly I just i... Continue reading »
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27
Socially Awkward
I believe socially awkward is the phrase my coworker uses to describe the process of readjusting to your home culture. I can’t even think of... Continue reading »
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28
Lamu
I love the sounds of Islam. Five times a day, starting at 5:00 AM, I am reminded of how deeply woven religion and culture are in the village of She... Continue reading »
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29
Ramadan in Lamu
Being in a Muslim village during Ramadan, the most holy time of year in Islam is an educational experience. During Ramadan, which lasts 30 days, no... Continue reading »
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30
Safari
I have this game that I play sometimes when I can’t find the monkeys, and I’m bored in the forest. I try to forget where I am. I shut my eyes and t... Continue reading »
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31
Job Requirements for Primatologists in Africa
Job Requirements for Primatologists in Africa:
- No attachment to flushing toilets or regular access to any toilet.
- Open to trying... Continue reading »
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32
Life with the Monkeys
There is something very intimate and comforting in the silence of watching primates. Even when I was a surrounded by a thousand screaming visi... Continue reading »
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33
Swahili
10/28/2008
I have always loved language. It always reminds me of music with its shifting of volumes and pace, and the constant rhythm behind... Continue reading »
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34
Obama Mashinda
11/8/2008
Obama Mashinda
We’ve been preparing for the moment since the day I arrived. I was blown away by the number of people that int... Continue reading »

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