Morocco & Portugal 2007

Morocco is a place to visit at least once a lifetime.  We're glad we've had ours.

Most of the land we saw is pitifully dry, stark and, except in the High Atlas, unattractive.  Yet, put a drop of water on it and the land turns the most vibrant green and seems to grow everything.  Irrigation systems abound and are ingenious in their complexity and functionality.  The country is a net exporter of food despite the parched, desolate nature of most of the land.  The average farm parcel looked to be less than an acre.  Mechanization is very limited and primitive.  Horses, donkeys and burros seem to outnumber people in many areas.

Colors and smells.  The Sahara is almost red.  Striking contrast to the hamada.  Beautiful, actually.  And, it harbours an amazing amount and variety of plant life.  We actually saw very little wildlife, not just in the desert.  But, in the desert at least, there were lots of animal, insect and reptile tracks.  Uncovered a scorpion in iys nest under a big flat rock in the hamada.  Spotted lots of beetles and one curious little pinkish white reptile were dubbed a mini  dinosaur.  Too bad the desert was so littered especially by black plastic bags and empty plastic bottles, just like everywhere else in the country.  The smells were very different and very apparent.  Many, especially in the urban areas, were of the typical unpleasant human waste variety.  Equine manure smells the same.  But, goat, sheep and camel dung is odourless, probably because it practically turns to dust when it hits the ground.  No moisture wasted among those species.  In fact, the camels were not only odourless, they seemed surprisingly clean and almost groomed.  Again, no sign of sweat, even when they had exerted themselves greatly climbing and descending soft sand in the dunes.  Spice smells were also common whenever we were among people.  Loved them (and brought lots home with us).  In the agricultural areas, the fragrances were very noticeable and pleasant.  Actually, a surprising amount and variety of flowering plants and trees abounded especially for the time of year.

Water is not just a major challenge generally, but especially potable water.  All sources of water are guarded strenously, reused and recycled.  There was no sign of sewage treatment anywhere, however.  We were warned not to drink tap water anywhere.  We each consumed 4 or 5, 1 litre bottles of "spring" water a day.  Some of the spring water didn't smell so sweet either.  Everyone had a touch of Delhi belly, but it never lasted more than 24 hours for anyone and was not particulary debilitating.  Just annoying.  Though the quality of our accommodations was generally better than adequate, tap water was often unreliable and hot water not available.