NOT THE AMAZING RACE BUT THE AMAZING SIGHTS

The Taj Mahal
see all photos »

Day 1

ADELAIDE TO DELHI

Cathay flight to Hong Kong via Melbourne was very comfortable and very enjoyable, seats, food, service, drinks & entertainment all top shelf. Quick transit change  in HK but next flight to Delhi was on an old model A33O with basic comforts which we once would have considered to be excellent. Anyway the flight departed at 11.00pm and we were tired and had eaten so much on the first leg that the lentil curry offered at midnight had absolutely no appeal, so we attempted to watch a movie hoping that sleep would take over.

Arrived at Delhi at 2.00am, still very warm and stuffy, we breezed through immigration etc, and were the first people out to be welcomed by a hundred Indians all with signs looking for passengers. Soon found our driver who was just as happy to see us and he lead us out through a dirty, run down car park to our Limo which was a Tata Esteem that was so small he had to put one bag on the roof which he tied down with string.

As we drove into the city, the traffic was very heavy with trucks of all sizes and condition, as they can not enter the city during the day all deliveries are at night. Everytime a car passes another car or truck it beeps its horn as a warning, at first we thought they were telling us that our bag had fallen off the roof but then our driver joined in the chorus.

Checked into Hotel, they advised that no rooms with king bed available that night and that we had been allocated twin bed room and would be shifted to another room the following day, at 3.00am after traveling for 21 hours who cares just give me a bed.

Room was OK just, a bit old and tired just like me, but the bed was great and provided a well needed sleep.

DAY 2   DELHI 25 hours gone 863 to go

Woke refreshed and hungry, so we decided to check out the buffet breakfast at Hotel. Manager greets us warmly and talks us into having a go at Indian Pancakes which he had the chef prepare for us, after all how much trouble could you get into with a pancake. Pigs arse , out he comes with a dry pancake, naan bread and four other spicy condiments and very hot and spicy potato and vegetable dahl curry. So that we don’t upset him we eat it then get stuck into real breakfast food which was very satisfying.

Off after breakfast for a walk around the block to check out the local surroundings, of course we soon besieged by rickshaw drivers, taxi drivers, waifs of all shapes and sizes who were all persistent and had only one thing in mind, separating you and your money.

We had arranged for the driver, Jagdish, who picked us from the airport to take us for a four hour sightseeing tour of Delhi and he greeted us like long lost relatives. First stop was the India Gate which was impressive followed by the President’s residence which is flanked by the Ministry of Defence offices on one side and Ministry of Finance on the other and run in direct line to India Gate. Then on to a Muslim Mosque in the Old Delhi area which is direct contrast to New Delhi area and you can see why they decided to build a new city. At the Mosque, first they make you take your shoes off then charge you 200 rupees if you have a camera, so up you Muhamod, no cash for you, but then they want 10 rupees to get my shoes back. Jagdish was very surprised that we wouldn’t pay, no commission, so back through the throng of rickshaws, motorbikes, taxis and people walking in the middle of the road to the very impressive Red Fort.

Had a good look around the Red Fort which was huge, 2kms to walk around and was home of the rulers for about 300 years. There is still a strong military presence inside with armed soldiers everywhere and sandbagged bunkers at the front gate with guns in place. By this time is getting a bit hot and it was very pleasing to see Jagdish pull up and bring out bottles of chilled water.

A couple more monuments, tombs etc and of course the obligatory handicraft store and it was time to get back to the sanity of the hotel for a cold beer and a clean toilet.

We got our new room that had been recently renovated with king bed and huge balcony, upset the porter who wanted to show us the room, considered he did bugger all, so no tip.

Soon refreshed so time to hit the streets again in a rickshaw, wanted to go up to Connaught Circuit, but he had other ideas, so after a while he decided to take us the right way, but had to stop on the way to change his shirt into rickshaw drivers uniform to avoid a fine, nearly pissed ourselves laughing. Only one small problem he had no idea where he was going and had to pick up another guy to show him, and of course he had his own idea of what shops we should be going to. Eventually got there but not much to see, so back to hotel for a rest and dinner in hotel at Larry’s Chinese which not bad.

Early to bed , Pedometer reading 13474.

Highlights of day: New Delhi was way more enjoyable than we expected. Traveling by tuk tuk/ rickshaw knowing that we could be killed at any moment and not worrying about it in the slightest.

Day 2  Delhi to Agra by train. 49 hours down 839 to go.

Took taxi to train station and allowed plenty of time before scheduled departure, just as well as it was a Sunday and everybody in Delhi was catching a train somewhere, it was ciaos. As always everyone tells you that you should be going the opposite way that you want to go and after several mis-directions and not finding any information boards we headed to our platform going against a wall of locals, wrong platform, try another one, be entertained by the team of donkeys carting sand, gravel and bricks between the railway lines for the workers constructing a new drain.

Surprise the train arrives on time and our carriage is right where we are standing, find our seats and breathe a huge sigh of relief. Just as we about to leave some young guys came along and said we were in their seats, but as they could not produce their tickets we told them to piss off. An hour later the conductor came along to check tickets and of course we were in wrong carriage. Eventually found our carriage and shared a cabin with a young Indian couple and their three kids who considered us a bit of a novelty.

Easy trip of 3 hours and luckily everyone told us when to get off at Agra station which would have to be one of biggest dumps in the world and slightly warm at 43C. Paid the extra for an air-conditioned cab to the Taj View Hotel which turned out to be very nice.

Greeted with a lotus garland and an iced cold sweet lime juice drink, back to civilization, got a room on the top floor which has an unbelievable view of the Taj Mahal.

Spent an hour on the daybed looking at the Taj and having a cold refreshment then it was time to go and visit it and see it at sunset. Another frightening rickshaw ride through Agra which is just a dump, pay $35 to get into the Taj Mahal but it was worth it as it is just stunning and well worth the effort in getting here.

After an hour a duststorm came from nowhere with very strong winds, dust and rain which was quite exciting for some, took shelter in the Taj and waited it out then back to the hotel as the sunset was not providing any special lighting effects.

Had dinner in our room and another early night. Got woken up at 1.00am by some crazy locals in a truck with loud speakers playing music and chanting out the front of the hotel.

Day 3 – Agra 6.00am (73 gone 815 to go)

Departed Hotel to see Taj at dawn, beautiful day nice and cool, took tuk tuk to Taj, our driver from yesterday, 9010, must have slept in as he is not at the front gate. We were some of the first people in and had a clear go at taking photos without a 1000 people in the shot. Taj looks magnificent and calm ponds provide perfect reflection, far better than yesterday.

Walk around looking for that perfect position to take the perfect photo in the perfect morning light, thank god for digital cameras, if you don’t get it you can always create it.

Back to Hotel for big buffet breakfast and rest until check out time at 12.00 then off to see the other sights of Agra. Tuk tuk 9010 is waiting for us and takes us to Agra Fort on the banks of the river overlooking Taj Mahal. The fort was magnificent, built in early 1600 with enough room to house the ruler’s harem of 5000 in individual rooms. Then onto Itimadud-Duala which is another monument built 400 years ago situated in the middle of the biggest slum that you could ever imagine and we cheated death several times getting there and back.

We have had enough of Agra and went back to hotel to pickup bags and have a couple of cold beers prior to catching train back to Delhi.