Guatemala Birding Trip, November 7-21, 2006
In and around World
Birdwatching is a wonderful pastime. It takes you to many different places to add to your lifelist of birds. While there, you can take in the new sights and culture and try out some new food. The money you spend will help out the locals, and they are as interested to talk to you as you are to them.
Planning the trip is half the fun, and I started early. In June of 2006 I had already purchased my airline ticket for Guatemala City in November. I'd hoped to fly into Flores, in the Peten and closer to my birding site of Tikal, but the ticket price jumped $200 in a couple of days so I waited. A couple of weeks later the price had climbed $300 more, so I bought my ticket to Guate (Guatemala City) for about $500, including taxes and travel insurance. Over the next five months I watched the price of the ticket to Flores climb as high as $1900. In October it settled back to about $700. Then In late November the only airline that offered flights from the U.S. direct to Flores discontinued them.
In preparation for my trip, I read every blog and trip report (birding and non-birding) I could find on the web. I read at least three or four travel guides and bought the newest one I could find to take with me. I read suggested packing lists from several sources and started accumulating the things I didn't have. I joined three or four online travel forums to get current information.
I'd traveled to Mexico for three months in the 70's, and at one time I spoke Spanish pretty well, but I'd forgotten a lot. I took an intensive review course at the local university, used another self-study course at home, and bought a parallel version of the New Testament in English and Spanish, reading the Gospel of John twice before I left.
I decided against the recommended immunizations of Typhoid and Hepatitis A and the pre-trip malaria medication (chloroquine). The total cost of the doctor's visit, injections, and medications would have exceeded $400, and I have had no medical insurance for twenty years. Since I expected to be in the jungle for long periods, sitting and watching birds, I contacted a Guatemalan doctor by email for advice. He very graciously explained that Aralen (chloroquine), was readily available over-the-counter at any Guatemalan pharmacy and was very inexpensive. He suggested that I take two tablets each week I was there, and then one tablet for each of two weeks after I returned home.
I planned to leave Guate as soon as possible after I arrived. Whether by air or by bus, I couldn't decide. Website information was sorely outdated, and even the travel guides couldn't keep up with the rapid price and schedule changes. All assured me that I would have no problem getting either a hotel or a bus or airline ticket after I arrived in Guate. I decided to believe that it was true.
My major concern was my age and health. At 63 and with chronic back problems and a leg recently injured playing table tennis, I no longer had the physical stamina I might need. I decided to carry along a lightweight birding chair, which I usually carry draped over one shoulder. I rigged up a lightweight backpack to it, so that there would be two shoulder straps for long jaunts and a place to carry field guides, water, and snacks. I strapped the two tightly together for the plane trip. In addition, I used a carry-on size backpack with wheels. I never carried it on my back, and I always checked both pieces of luggage so that I had less to worry about.
I wasn't overly concerned about all the warnings against women traveling alone. Whatever might happen to me there could just as easily happen to me anywhere. Birding alone presented unique problems. Tour groups or guides were considered, despite their cost (which is surprisingly high for Guatemala). In the end, I decided to go it alone, as I do at home. I like going at my own pace (slow), staying quiet to attract birds (hard within a group), and sighting and identifying the birds by myself (more of a challenge and an accomplishment). Ideally, one other self-sufficient, independent, dedicated birding companion would have been great. Oh, well.
This will be a trip or travel report, since I've already returned home, and recovered, from what was quite an adventure. I will make a journal entry for each of the days of my trip (two weeks), and a summary at the end. The entries will be very detailed, as that's the way I remember things and that's what I searched for before I left and hope will help future travelers. I hope all readers will glean some needed information and enjoy!
Route taken and entries by Real Traveler rar
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1
Guatemala City, Nov. 7, 2006
My 7am flight to Guatemala sounded good when I booked it, not taking into consideration the half-hour drive to the airport and 2-hour cushion the a... Continue reading »
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2
Flores and El Remate, November 8, 2006
I woke up an hour or more before dawn. I switched on the tiny book light I’d brought and scanned the floor before I stepped out of bed. No bugs. Go... Continue reading »
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3
El Remate and Biotopo Cerro Cahui, November 9, 2006
I didn’t sleep well last night. The barking of a large dog woke me up. It was still pretty early when I went to bed, so I decided to just lie there... Continue reading »
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4
El Remate and Tikal, November 10, 2006
I woke up early again, as usual. Again, I hadn’t slept well. The hotel watchdog hadn’t barked, but several other dogs in the nearby neighborhood ha... Continue reading »
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5
El Remate and Tikal, November 11, 2006
At dawn’s early light I biked to Biotopo Cerro Cahui again. It had poured the night before and yesterday afternoon, making for slippery footing alo... Continue reading »
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6
Tikal, November 12, 2006
I awoke refreshed after a good night’s sleep. The lantern that had been placed outside my front door at 11pm had awakened me only briefly. The fumes... Continue reading » -
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Tikal, November 13, 2006
I awoke abruptly at 4:30am. I heard someone knocking on hotel doors and realized guests were being awakened for the sunrise tour of the ruins. I’d... Continue reading »
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8
Tikal, November 14, 2006
I was awakened again at 4:30am by the knocking for the sunrise tour. I should have known it would be a daily occurrence. Ah, well, I was getting us... Continue reading »
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9
Tikal to Sayaxche to Coban, November 15, 2006
Which area of Tikal should I bird this day? I didn’t relish the thought of another long hike in the heat. I had blisters and my legs ached. Should... Continue reading »
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10
Coban to Biotopo del Quetzal, November 16, 2006
I awoke at dawn, as usual. I’d slept all night with earplugs, a first for me. I was glad to know that I could. I made all of my morning preparation... Continue reading » -
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Biotopo del Quetzal, November 17, 2006
Arriving at the Biotopo yesterday afternoon, I was met by a friendly Senora and her four-year-old daughter. Her husband, the one I had spoken to on th... Continue reading » -
12
Hospedaje Ranchito del Quetzal, November 18, 2006
When I got up at dawn, I could see my breath. It was colder than ever. When I had visited Mexico thirty years ago and been informed there would be... Continue reading »
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13
Biotopo del Quetzal to Antigua, November 19, 2006
Getting up at dawn on my last day at the Hospedaje Ranchito del Quetzal, I had quite a few hours to go birding before having to catch the 10am bus.... Continue reading »
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14
Antigua, November 20, 2006
Despite liking the room at Hotel Posada San Pedro II so much, I hadn’t slept well. I’d been delighted to have windows that would open to let in the... Continue reading »
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15
Antigua and Guatemala City, November 21, 2006
I awoke feeling nauseous on the last day of my trip. I took some antacid tablets and, just in case I developed more symptoms, some Pepto Bismol table... Continue reading » -
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Guatemala Birding Trip, November 7-21, 2006: Summary
Now that it’s been almost two months since I returned from Guatemala, I am ready to summarize my adventures. Trip preparation, including packing li... Continue reading »
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