Embracing India - land of potholes, panthers and Parvati
In and around India
Of all the 145 nations on the earth - the one with the strongest culture has to be India.
The fact that you are not considered a "traveller" until you have "done" India is a cliche but there is an element of truth there. It is a tough destination, it is a rewarding destination - it is often a challenge. But the things they have there are mindblowing. The culture is so strong it overwhelms you - its so powerful there is very little Western culture there. So you fit in with it - not it with you. Embrace India and the rewards will be astronomical.
There seems to be a little magic in the world here. If you have a romantic soul then it will find many things to adore - sunset over Pushkar lake. A sunset framed by domes and temples, a sunset throwing shadows over steps inhabited by sadhus and cows complimented by the squawking of peacocks or the call of the faithful to prayer. You can enter that land of magic. Many travellers become Indian. Out go the shorts and boots and in come lunghis and sandals. Your wrist may have a bracelet of red and yellow string showing that you have taken the puja, your forehead may have a dot of red kohl and your stomach? Well, your stomach may have a story all of its own.
But the romance of India is still there and that is what travellers must concentrate on because getting from A to B and simple practicabilities are hard work. India hit a billion people while I was there in 2000 and each of those billion people have a living to earn. So what is a little amount of money to you is a lot to them. This is at its most obvious in the tourist trade. There are enough scams in Delhi and Agra to fill an encyclopedia (I fell for two of them) and you may get the impression that you are a moving wallet to them. For some sections of the tourist industry - you are, they make no bones about it.
But get away from the three-ringed circus that is Delhi, Agra and Jaipur and a different India appears - an India of buffaloes wallowing in pools, of carts with great balloons of wheat blocking your way, of camels trotting down the street, of women looking from purdah through latticed balconies and the holy worship at temples of gods that have been around for 5000 years.
India is boundless. It was here at the beginning of time, infuriating and enthralling travellers - and it will be there at the end.
And, oh yes - the Taj Mahal is the most beautiful building in the world...
Route taken and entries by Real Traveler actonsteve
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1
India is a blur - arrival in the bustling city of Delhi
India is a blur.
India becomes a deluge, an onslaught - a full assault on your sense that sends you reeling. The heat and the hot wind m... Continue reading »
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2
A tough day in Connaught Place - where this traveller falls for not one but two scams..
It was as soon as I descended into the underpass connecting Janpath that things started to go horribly wrong today.
Everybody is green in tou... Continue reading »
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3
Shahjanabad - ancient Delhi and its most historical Mosque - the Jamii Masjid
It hit 44 degrees celcius in the shade today.
It was so hot you could only go out for a little while until the suns rays forced you back insi... Continue reading »
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4
Rajasthan - 'Land of Kings' - a hair-raising drive to Pushkar
I faced death on the road today at least fifty times.
At points I found myself squeezing my legs together in terror as Suresh pushed down har... Continue reading »
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5
Being blessed on the holy ghats of Pushkar
"What is your grandmothers name?"
"Francis.."
"She wishes you a long life. Do you wish to bless her?"
"Go on then.."
"Throw... Continue reading »
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6
Jaipur - Pink City of Maharajahs and Elephants
Suresh has got a miserable face on him tonight.
He drove the wrong way down a one-way street in Jaipur and a traffic cop caught him. So... Continue reading »
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7
The Amber Fort - the kingdom of the Warrior Rajputs
There is one undeniable fact about India......it is breathtakingly romantic..
I pondered this as I looked down from the ramparts of the Amber... Continue reading »
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8
Birdsong amongst the marshes - Keoladeo-Ghana NP
"Kwa.kwa....kwa kwa...kwa kwa.."
Our Schwammi rickshaw driver paused and identified the sound as "grey Indian coot" and then peddled on. The... Continue reading »
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9
The Taj Mahal - the most beautiful building in the world?
One simple question: Is the Taj Mahal the loveliest building on the planet?
Anyone who has seen it immediately answers with a resounding - ye... Continue reading »
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10
A close second to the Taj - the spectacular Agra Fort
Tonight I am back in Delhi.
My tour of Rajasthan is up but my last stop was the incomparable Agra Fort which vies with the Taj as the most st... Continue reading »
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11
Dinner with the Kashmiri brothers - a day of relaxation in Delhi
One of things about keeping a diary is you have nothing to do with it when you do nothing all day..
Today has been about relaxation. Suresh i... Continue reading »
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12
High in the Himalayas - the hill station of Nainital
I feel cool in Nainital today - not cold, but definitely cool. The Indians are shivering and they stroll the Mall in cardigans and jumpers while I... Continue reading »
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13
Waiting for a break in the monsoon - the grimy truckstop of Ramnager
Where there is a will there is a way..
We may have found a way into Corbett NP. We've come all this way and found that it is shut due to the... Continue reading »
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14
Looking for tigers in the rain - the Corbett NP
"Have you seen many tigers outside the park?" I asked Manoj.
"Oh many times", for he was a local boy, "one time out jogging a tigress and six... Continue reading »
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15
The monsoon ordeal continues - tough drive from Ramnager to Rishikesh
Today could possibly be described as an adventure if I was feeling charitable. If I was not feeling charitable I could say it was one of the most s... Continue reading »
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16
The sun comes out - the holy Meditation centre on the Ganges
In the not too distant past Rishikesh was a quiet spiritual centre renowned for its ashrams and sadhus. Now, its a circus - an enjoyable circus but... Continue reading »
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Back down to Delhi and a return to Sundar Nagar
Without doubt, the most striking thing about India is the religious fervour..
This was evident in Haridwar this morning, the mass of people h... Continue reading »
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