The Pangaea Diaries
In and around World
I'll be traversing South and Central America during 2008, beginning with Argentina in January, Antarctica, the Falklands and South Georgia in February, and heading north thru the Andes thereafter. The plan is to hit all 21 countries over the next 12 months. The first blog entry "South America: The Great Adventure" provides a bit more detail on my proposed itinerary, along with some background on how I came to undertake this trip.
If I don’t catch you along the way, I’ll see you on the other side… Enjoy!
Route taken and entries by Real Traveler timothyshoup
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1
Why We Travel
A good friend sent me the following before my departure.
__________________
May the road rise up to meet you
May... Continue reading » -
2
South America: The Great Adventure
I thought the following departure email sent before leaving for a year in South America was worth reproducing here in the blog as a first entry.Continue reading »
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3
The Departure
On January 12, 2008, I boarded Mexicana airlines flight #801 bound for Mexico City en route to spending the better part of a year on a to-be-determine... Continue reading » -
4
Finally There After 30 Hours of Travel
While it may not seem like it from these blog entries, I’m actually extremely amused by and enjoying everything that’s happened so…..and I anticipa... Continue reading »
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5
The Arrival
I arrived into Ezeiza International Airport about 20 minutes late around 11:45am local time (4 hour time difference with Chicago and Mexico City).&... Continue reading »
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6
Exploration
I finally fell asleep around 5am local time, after talking with my brother and his wife for about 45 minutes on Skype, checking email and surfing the... Continue reading » -
7
The City of Mardel
A quick description of the city for some background (my paraphrase with info grabbed from other sources such as Lonely Planet and Wikipedia):
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8
Highlights of My Week in Mardel
While I won’t bore myself or any of my readers with a daily recap of every single day in Mardel (or my year in South America), the following should... Continue reading »
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9
Kicking Restaurants and Super Cool Fellow Travelers
While in Mardel, I had some beautiful nights out on the town and would highly recommend the following places:
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10
Driving Chaos
A quick word about driving/traveling here: traffic control and enforcement are almost non-existent in Argentina, and portenos (citizens of Buenos Aire... Continue reading » -
11
PHOTOS: Mar del Plata, Argentina
Photos posted on flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/timothyshoup/sets/72157603775864829/detail/
85 photos in total of the city,... Continue reading » -
12
The Bus Ride
After 7 awesome days in Mardel, I boarded an 8pm bus on Sunday night for the 17-hour bus ride down to Puerto Madryn and Peninsula Valdes. The bus s... Continue reading »
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13
Patagonia
Whereas Mar del Plata was more about culture, restaurants, bars, beaches, etc., Patagonia is definitely about supreme natural beauty, rugged, barre... Continue reading »
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14
Punta Ninfas
I hopped on a 5pm tour bus this evening for a ride on dirt roads out to Punta Ninfas (“Nymph’s Point), located... Continue reading » -
15
Reserva Provincial Punta Tombo
The rental car is turning out to be a very cost-effective idea, despite Gaston’s urgings toward the tours. Gaston (who is a genuinely awesome guy,... Continue reading »
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16
Reserva Faunistica Peninsula Valdes
After a day off to rest, recovery and walk a bit of the city, I hopped in another rental car from Avis with a completely different foursome that inclu... Continue reading » -
17
Highlights of My Week in Puerto Madryn
Puerto Madryn is a cool beachside town, much smaller and more manageable than Mar del Plata and I like it better (not that MdP was bad). The... Continue reading »
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18
Burnin’ a Day
Well, there is absolutely nothing to do or see in Rio Gallegos….not really, anyways. I ended up stranded here for a day after the Via Tac omnibus... Continue reading » -
19
The End of the World
After 13 hours of travel, crossing the Straight of Magellan (see pictures) by ferry and changing buses in Rio Grande (about 3 hours north of Ushuai... Continue reading »
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20
The Broom of God
I’m definitely sick now; I slept until almost noon today (which is about right seeing as how I didn’t go to bed until after 3am) and then laid in bed... Continue reading » -
21
Going Underground
Tomorrow (Feb. 4), I set sail for the next 3 weeks to visit The Falklands Islands, South Georgia Island and Antarctica. Since satellite access t... Continue reading » -
22
The Professor Multanovskiy
“Of the gladdest moments in life, methinks is the departure upon a distant journey to unknown lands. Shaking off with one mighty effort the fetters... Continue reading »
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23
West Point Island
“Men go out into the void spaces of the world for various reasons. Some are actuated simply by a love of adventure, some have the keen thirst for s... Continue reading »
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24
The Capital City
“How fresh was every sight and sound on open main or winding shore! We knew the merry world was round, and we might sail for evermore.” – Alfred Lo... Continue reading »
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25
A River of Krill
Our 2.5 days on the open Southern Atlantic Ocean were relatively calm, and the cocktail of Scopolamine Disks (3-day patches placed behind the ear)... Continue reading »
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26
The Antarctic Convergence
At some point late Thursday or early Friday, our ship crossed over the boundary line separating the Southern Ocean from the warmer Sub-Antarctic water... Continue reading » -
27
The Grave of Shackleton
“For speed and efficiency of travel give me Amundsen, for scientific discovery give me Scott, but when all hope is lost get down on your knees and... Continue reading »
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28
The Great Beyond
"Most people might be oppressed by such surroundings, with its silence and inhuman expanses…But he who seeks peace and quiet in Nature, undisturbed... Continue reading »
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29
The Slaughter of Thousands
“As soon as we take one thing by itself, we find it hitched to everything else in the universe.” – John Muir (Journals)
“We need another and... Continue reading »
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30
The King Penguins of Salisbury Plain
“Who would have ever believed in penguins unless he had seen them.” – Connor O’Brien
The wake-up call arrived very early this morning, our ex... Continue reading »
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31
The Shackleton Walk
I was ever a fighter, so—one fight more,
The best and the last!
I would hate that death bandaged my eyes, and forbore, &nbs... Continue reading » -
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The Wandering Albatrosses of Prion Island
“The albatross can maintain this swooping soaring flight for hours on end without a single wing beat.” – David Attenborough “The albatross … manage... Continue reading » -
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Moltke Harbour & Gold Harbour
“For sheer downright misery, give me a hurricane, not too warm, the yard of a sailing ship, a wet sail and a bout of sea sickness.” Apsley Cherry G... Continue reading »
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34
Larsen Harbour & Drygalski Fjord
“I am probably a traditionalist and probably a relic. But when I watch the flickering film of life scurrying past me at the station or in a large c... Continue reading »
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35
Astrolabe Island
“Glittering white, shining blue, raven black, in the light of the sun, the land looks like a fairy tale. Pinnacle after pinnacle, peak after peak –... Continue reading »
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36
The Antarctic Swimming Club
“In individuals, insanity is rare; but in groups…it is the rule.” – Friedrich Nietzsche, Beyond Good and EvilContinue reading »
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37
Whaler’s Bay, Deception Island
“This Island of Deception as far as regards description may be summed up in very few words. It is a place of strange contrarities, it is agreeable,... Continue reading »
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38
The Drake Passage
“Strange. There is always sadness on departure. It is as if one cannot after all bear to leave this bleak waste of ice, glaciers, cold and toil…” –... Continue reading »
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39
Return To The End Of The World
Our two days of voyaging from Antarctica were downright violent, but we eventually neared the coast of Cape Horn late afternoon of the 21st and fin... Continue reading »
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40
Cerro Guanaco
Well, what to do after getting back from the incomparable glory and triumph of an expedition to Antarctica and South Georgia Island? Thankfully,... Continue reading » -
41
Gettin’ On with Gettin’ On…
I discovered late Saturday afternoon (much to my dismay) that the next available bus over to Punta Arenas, Chile wasn’t until next Friday…being the hi... Continue reading » -
42
Un Completo Con Palta
I ended up spending 5 days chillin’ out in this Chilean city of 125,000 people situated on the Strait of Magellan in Tierra del Fuego. The rain fell h... Continue reading » -
43
Too Much Stuff?
When my Polar heart rate monitor watch sounded the 5:40am alarm this morning, I was awake…still awake as it turns out. I had a 7am bus to catch; the t... Continue reading » -
44
Valle Ascencio and Campamento Chileno
A spot after the 1pm hour and with the sun floating high in the relatively tranquil, dazzlingly cerulean Patagonian sky, the Continue reading » -
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Sunrise at Mirador Las Torres
The witching hour of 4:45am showed up irritatingly early and I hit the 10-minute snooze button on the polar watch before reluctantly unzipping the sle... Continue reading » -
46
Valle Frances
Feeling considerably better this morning (10 hours locked inside the Lake & Trail tent was exactly what the doctor ordered) after a full night... Continue reading »
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47
The Essence of Patagonia
Taken from a plaque on the lobby wall of Lodge de Montana Paine Grande in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine:
Patagonia is a vast territory: w... Continue reading »
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48
Glaciar Grey
I awoke in my tent this morning around 8:30am with a gnawing dilemma. My plan today is to hike north-northwest along the shores of Lago Grey, passi... Continue reading »
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49
Mirador Los Cuernos
The first thought on my mind this morning when I awoke (even before thinking about breakfast, which was a close second) was not having to get up an... Continue reading »
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50
Seno Ultima Esperanza
I arrived back to Natales to find my luggage in order and all my “stuff” accounted for…hip, hip, HOORAY (repeat 2 more times)!
I ended up spe... Continue reading »
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51
Perito Moreno Glacier
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares spreads out over 600,000 hectares in Southern Patagonia on the Argentine-Chilean border and boasts some 5 major glaci... Continue reading »
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52
El Calafate
Other than being the principle gateway to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, there isn’t much else to El Calafate. Situated on the southern shores of L... Continue reading »
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53
El Chalten
Arriving after a 5-hour bus ride up Ruta Nacional 40 and across on Ruta Provincial 524, I arrived into the oasis of El Chalten, a small town of onl... Continue reading »
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54
Cerro Torre & Cerro Fitz Roy
The Fitz Roy range is arguably some of the most stunning mountain scenery in the world, and the reason I’ve traveled to El Chalten. Characterized b... Continue reading »
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55
Sunrise at Fitz Roy
After 2 long days of hiking up to Laguna Toro (Day 1) and then the Torre and Fitz Roy ranges (Day 2), I decided to take off Friday and just chill o... Continue reading »
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56
Cerro Torre…Again
I was hopeful yet again when I awoke this morning that the gloomy weather of yesterday would’ve subsided, and I could treat Cathy to the same spect... Continue reading »
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57
Ruta Nacional 40
Desolate, wind-ravaged and wildly hypnotic, Ruta Nacional 40 is South America’s equivalent of Route 66 in the United States. Popular culture... Continue reading »
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58
The Southern Carretera Austral
“Quien se apura en Patagonia pierde el tiempo.” (“Whoever hurries in Patagonia loses time.”) – Common Local Saying
After a short overnight in... Continue reading »
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59
The Northern Carretera Austral
After a couple nights in that dump of a hospedaje in Coyhaique, I boarded a colectivo with Buses Queulat fo... Continue reading »
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60
The Magical Island – La Isla Grande de Chiloe
Visitors to Chiloe beware, so go the legends!
In the magical forests of this island lives a small, ugly imp-like creature known as Continue reading »
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61
Getting to Pucon x 2
Rolling out of Chonchi on La Isla Grande de Chiloe, I’ve got a long day ahead of me. The journey up to the resort & adventure sports town... Continue reading »
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62
The Lake Tahoe Of Chile
Situated on the eastern shores of shimmering Lago Villarica and in the shadow of spectacular Volcan Villarica, Pucon is truly the Lake Tahoe of Chi... Continue reading »
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63
Volcan Villarica
Third time’s a charm!
I had a originally planned (when I arrived on Monday) to get my trek to the summit of Volcan Villarica out of the way a... Continue reading »
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64
Pucon, Chile to Bariloche, Argentina
As the bus offices were closed on Sunday (just our luck), I arose early Monday morning and hopped in the rental car and sped over to the terminal a... Continue reading »
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65
El Circuito Chico
Driving south out of Bariloche, Cathy and I flipped open the Lonely Planet guidebook, area maps and discussed what to “accomplish” for the day and... Continue reading »
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66
The Chamuyero & Cerro Piltriquitron
After breakfast at El Pueblito and driving around town for what seemed like an eternity…to fill up the car with gas for only $20 (i.e. reminder aga... Continue reading »
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67
The After-Hours Border Crossing
Finishing up at the “Southernmost Winery in South America”, with plenty of daylight still illuminating the northern Patagonian sky…Cathy and I deci... Continue reading »
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68
Raspberries, Red Wine & The Cool, Refreshingly Crisp Waters of Lago Puelo
Cathy & I rolled out of our cozy, little cabana a tad late this morning…the place was just too comfortable and it’s easy feel lazy here. As I’v... Continue reading »
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69
Whitewater on the Fu
Well, it’s raining in Futaleufu…
We’ve come here to roll the dice on a very late season run of the world-class whitewater rapids of the Rio F... Continue reading »
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