Go West young man! From the deserts of New Mexico to the silver sea of California
In and around North America
I was scanning through my travel journals the other day. I have been travelling for nearly 17 years. It started way back in 1991 when I was 22. I had been at a dead end job for nearly five years and felt life was passing me by. One night, after a drunken pub conversation - a friend asked me what I really wanted to do. The answer lit up in my head like a lightbulb.
Travel.
It took me eight months to save up spending money, sell the car, empty the savings and finally get on that Air India plane to New York in April 1992. There I got a place at a summer camp teaching kids up in Syracuse New York ("My daddy says the English speak stoopid..") and then explored the North East taking in Montreal, Boston, Toronto, and whalewatching in Cape Cod. It was pretty leisurely wandering broken only by a week or so in Washington to continue my visa. I continued exploring, hanging out at $10 a night youth hostels and living on spaghetti and ragu (at 22/23 you can do these kind of things) and spent time in Savannah, Charleston, Atlanta and finally ended up in New Orleans. Funds were getting low and while being unsuccessful in N'awlins at topping them up. I managed to get work sweeping floors at a chip mill in Dallas and spent a month or so at a "health club" in Houston. The funds were seriously topped up then and an inheritance came through meaning I didn't have to work for the rest of my time in the United States. I could just travel and enjoy myself. However, there was one problem
My visa was running out.
So this journal starts in early November 1992 when I am at the Texas/Mexico border tow on El Paso/Juarez and I have just reentered the United States. The whole of the American Southwest lay before and its horizons seemed boundless. I still count New Mexico and Arizona as one of my favourite places in the world. And America, itself, was going through transition, from the rowdy eighties in the nineties. There were still problems and traveling on public transport in a country where most people fly means you see the underside of the place. The glamour of Hollywood is contrasted with the homelessness of LA Greyhound station, the beautiful city of San Francisco still has the hair-raising district of the Tenderloin. I saw The United States of America - literally, with its arse hanging out.
And November 4 1992 was a particularly interesting time as 3 terms of Republican government was running out and the Democrats had entered the White House. To be in the States while an election was going on was exhilarating - the debates on television, the opinions of people I met, the electoral slogans everywhere. George Bush senior wanted a "kinder gentler America" in 1992 that was still not yet happening. New York had not yet started its renaissance, the LA subway was a glint in the planners eye and parts of the city was still smoking ruins from the race riots of earlier that year. 1992 was the year of Rodney King.
So why write this diary up 15/16 years later? As well as memory and literally preservation its a kind of a snapshot of a time and a place. Impressions of an outsider, a lad from a small town in England traveling through the cities and canyons of the American West.
Go West young man! I did...and I had the time of my life..
Route taken and entries by Real Traveler actonsteve
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1
The starting gun goes off! Across the border from Mexico and into El Paso
"Thank god! I'm through the border! I'm out of Mexico and back into the United States! I cant believe it! My travels restart righ... Continue reading »
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2
Going Underground - Whites City and the Carlsbad Caverns NP
"So who won the election last night?"
I asked a hispanic lad who was sitting next to me on the TN&O bus. He brightened up when revealing... Continue reading »
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3
Through the deserts of New Mexico to the charming adobe city of Albuqurque
I visited twenty states during my sojourn in the United States and I must say that New Mexico remains my favourite.
The landscape are stunnin... Continue reading »
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4
Encounters with Red Indians - the Bandalier NM and San Ildefonso Pueblo
The Red Indian himself was very tall, wore sunglasses and spoke in a harsh voice. Officer Martinez of the San Ildefonso Pueblo wasn't very happy wi... Continue reading »
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5
Anasazi Indian country - the atmospheric and historic city of Santa Fe
Santa Fe isnt so much a town....its a state of mind.
Its a gorgeous historic town up high in the Sangre de Cristo mountains that blends hispa... Continue reading »
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6
High up in the Sangre de Cristos - the exotic Taos Pueblo
I woke up to the sound of dogs barking and a hot tepee.
The heater kept us very warm last night. So much in fact that unzipping the tepee and... Continue reading »
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7
The Palace of the Governors - the oldest building in the United States
I was perusing the exhibits in the Palace of the Spanish Governors this afternoon when a photo on the wall knocked me back.
A mushr... Continue reading »
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8
Returning to Albuquerque - TN&O bus down from the mountains
I woke up this morning with a foot of snow outside and it still falling.
The winter weather has followed me down from Taos. We are very high... Continue reading »
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9
San Felipe de Neri and hanging Chillies - Albuquerque Old Town
Alburquerque is definitely a crossroads destination.
People are just generally passing through. Most travellers you speak to at the hostel ar... Continue reading »
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10
The 'Hell Bus' to Flagstaff - crossing into Arizona
My bus to Flagstaff leaves at 8.00am today.
So I was up at 6.30, did my chores, and was booked out by 7.30am. Route 66 hostel in Albuerqurque... Continue reading »
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11
The most stunning sight in North America - the mighty GRAND CANYON
How can you put the Grand Canyon into words?
Its close to impossible.It doesnt look real. It looks so immense. You find yourself saying on fi... Continue reading »
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12
Descending into the Grand Canyon - the vertiginous Bright Angel Trail
I've got the time so I thought I'd spend two days at the Grand Canyon. Yesterday was exploring the vertigo inducing rim, today will be to see how f... Continue reading »
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13
A day in Flagstaff - cycling to Walnut Canyon
I am very tempted by Monument Valley. Its meant to be the only experience that comes close to topping the Grand Canyon.
But at $70 for the Gr... Continue reading »
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14
Crossing the California/Nevada Desert - Amtrak to Las Vegas
I awoke this morning to look out at the Mojave desert. We had entered California.
After seven/eight months in the US I had entered the state... Continue reading »
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15
Spin that wheel! Roll 'em dice! High living in Las Vegas!
Please note that this visit was in 1992. The Bellagio, Luxor, Stratosphere, Venetian and New York, New York were all glints in their respective... Continue reading »
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16
Caesars Palace and Excalibur - Las Vegas gets more and more ostentatious
Well I won today. I won thirty dollars!
It was on roulette at Excalibur. A New Yorker and I formed a partnership and decided to beat the whe... Continue reading »
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17
9.30am 'The Desert Wind' Amtrak to Los Angeles
I am beginning to thank god for an eight hour train ride today.
It allows my body to recuperate. I can stretch out on the comfy black leather... Continue reading »
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18
Reaching for that little piece of stardust - the tour of Los Angeles
We reached the high hedged walls of Jack Nicholsons enormous house. The door was a little ajar - so the crazy Australian put his foot on the accele... Continue reading »
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19
Skateboarders, surfers and crazies - an afternoon on the Venice Beach boardwalk
I was munching my toast and jam this morning at the Banana Bungalow when a blonde Englisman sat himself down next to me and started chatting.
Continue reading » -
20
Leaving reality for the day - Mickey Mouse and Cinderellas Castle
I had not thought about 'Star Wars' for nine years. Since the last film in 1983.
It had completely slipped out of my consciousness and here I... Continue reading »
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21
"I'm ready for my close-up now Mr DeMille.." - Universal Studios
One of the highlights of today was sitting at the front of the Universal Tour and listen to the tour guide bitch about the management.
"You k... Continue reading »
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22
The 12.05pm Amtrak to San Diego
The original plan was to stay another night at the 'Banana Bungalow' and go see a TV recording such as Arsenio Hall or Jay Leno. They usually have... Continue reading »
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23
Ah, that Californian lifestyle - a day at sunny Mission Beach
Its late November and I have been swimming in the Pacific off Mission Beach today.
A week or so ago I was fleeing the snows in New Mexic... Continue reading »
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24
The US Fleet is in... San Diego harbour and downtown
I have to tell you about one character at 'Jims-at-the-Beach' hostel.
Her name is Sarah Collings and comes from Gravesend in Kent. She is a s... Continue reading »
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25
Thanksgiving with Grizzly bears and Meercats - the San Diego zoo
Its Thanksgiving today and if I am lucky I can bag not one but two roast dinners.
I put my name down for the hostel dinner at 4.00pm and also... Continue reading »
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26
How the other half live - mixing with the millionaires in chi-chi La Jolla
There is no doubt that California is a golden corner of the world.
I was reminded of this this afternoon when I was standing on one of the ro... Continue reading »
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27
Climbing into the high Sierras - the spectacular Yosemite NP
I awoke in a place called Bakersfield on the edge of the Mojave desert.
We'd cleared Los Angeles and woke up in a small city where we overnig... Continue reading »
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28
Hiking to Vernal Falls - America at its most awesome at Yosemite
I was very sorry to leave the cosy warm cabin this morning. But the sight of those great mountains towering above the pines as I exited truly made... Continue reading »
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29
City on the edge of the Western Hemisphere - romantic San Francisco
Let me describe the view from the Coit Tower
To the far right, across the wharves is the Oakland Bridge while straight ahead is an emormous b... Continue reading »
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30
The backpackers of Alcatraz and lively Fishermans Wharf
We were first on the cable-car this morning.
Kate, Richard and myself trudged down to Hallidie Plaza and took the Victorian transport up all... Continue reading »
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31
A View to a Kill - the Golden Gate Bridge
Of our little gang Richard and Kate were the first to leave today. They have a 48 hour journey all the way to Washington and caught their Amtrak th... Continue reading »
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32
Attack of the Clones - the North Beach and the famous Castro
I walked with Andy and his backpack through the Tenderloin this morning to the Transbay terminal on Market Street. He's sorry to be leaving San Fra... Continue reading »
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33
My first steps of going home - the end of the travels in the 'American West'
When I climbed up onto the footplate this morning...I was taking my first steps on my way home.
It would take another two weeks to get there.... Continue reading »
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