Viva Espanya! From Castile to Catalunya.....
In and around Spain
Spain is about life!
Spain is about joie de vivre, about buzz, about energy. But at the same time about conservatism, devoutness. That contrast and battle between one and another. Between the remnants of the Franco regime in the eighties and the explosion of decadence of the movida of Almodovar. Exemplified in Madrid with its 24 hour hedonism and its Catholic history, and Barcelona with its glittering Olympic facade and its dark criminal undercurrents. The two faces of the Kingdom of Spain.
I took this journey when I was thirty and it was only for two weeks but it remains one of the best holidays I have ever been to. The place fascinated me from the beginning. Spain has that latin exoticism that beguiles us northern Europeans. Its architecture has the first whiff of the east with its Moorish monuments and sunbleached cities. Its language speaks of Peru and Argentina, its history of repression, fiesta and world dominance and its art - oh god, its art. It puts most continents to shame.
While not my favourite country in the world (that will always be Brazil) it may be the contender for best country in the world. It really has got the lot - excellent native cuisine, good wines and sherries, brilliant innovative architecture, towering mountains, amazing sunshine, white sandy beaches, a mesmerising history and some of the best artworks in the world. Its 20th Century history has been one of struggle and oppression and it has the gavitas and weight that all great countries have combined with a culture so strong and seductive it went out and conquered the world.
Not many people remain unseduced by Spain..
Route taken and entries by Real Traveler actonsteve
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1
Move over Almodovar - my arrival in Madrid
The Peruvian musicians moved from table to table. Smiling inanely at numerous diners they moved around the baroque Plaza Mayor under the benign eye... Continue reading »
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2
Madrid del los Austrias - or how the other Royal half live...
Nothing beats a continental breakfast..
One of the pleasures of Europe is to sit down at a pavement cafe.Bliss is breaking rolls and... Continue reading »
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3
El Escorial - the dark palace of devout Catholic Spain
There are some places that come with expectation. There are some places which you have a pre-conceived notion about before you arrive...such a plac... Continue reading »
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4
The world of Velasquez and Goya - The Prado - Madrids premier tourist attraction
If you hire a painter to do your portrait, and particularly if you are royalty - you expect him to do a good job don't you?
Well, Velasquez d... Continue reading »
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5
The heart of Castile - the winding medieval city of Toledo
Everybody gets lost in Toledo. You cant help yourself - the narrow medieval streets could not be more labyrinthe if they held an actual minotaur. O... Continue reading »
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6
Let the train take the strain...RENFE down to Barcelona..
I am scribbling this extact on the 11.00am Madrid-Charmartin high speed TALGO to Barcelona-Sants.
The journey will take seven hours and will... Continue reading »
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7
Strolling La Ramblas - the most famous street in Spain
So what are the sharpest memories of my first day in Barcelona?
The tang of olives and tomato garlic bread in a pavement cafe in the sunshine... Continue reading »
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8
Letting it all hang out on the decadent beaches of Sitges...
If you mention Sitges to a Spainiard he will roll his eyes and wistfully mention "I would like to go there.."
Sitges has the reputatio in Spa... Continue reading »
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9
Montjuic - Hill of the jews - where the Olympics float over Barcelona..
If I were to compare the two cities then I would say Madrids manic madness just edges out Barcelonas sophistication but it is still a terrific... Continue reading »
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10
A mugging in the morning - the other side to sunny Barcelona..
The attempted mugging happened at 10.00am on a sunny Barcelona morning..
I had just come up from the post office on Via Laeitana. It thought... Continue reading »
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11
Farewell to Catalonia - my last day in the city of Barcelona
If this trip has been set to a soundtrack then the record of the summer of '99 has to be Molokos 'Bring it Back' which is played in every shop/cafe... Continue reading »
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