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“The smell of eggs was actually quite welcome... it had been a great boost to catch a wiff on the way up” |
Having been "organised" with military precision during our guided tour we decided to kick back and relax once back in Arequipa, Perus second city. Unfortunately, Charlies body went a bit too far and got sick. Sadly, this meant that the highlight of her birthday was a trip to the local hospital, and although the service was actually better than what youd get with the NHS, it wasnt quite what we had in mind. Luckily, we had started the celebrations early with a visit to the local creperie. Who would have thought that 2 seemingly intelligent Natural Scientists would try to extinguish a flaming chocolate and rum pancake by adding more rum? And, if further proof that having a Cambridge degree doesnt actually mean youre clever was required.... we delievered. Does anyone know why, when salt is added to a bottle of coke, a bomb like explosion occurs leaving said scientists, and surrounding restuarant covered in a sticky solution?- answers on a postcard please...
We were lucky to be staying in a really nice hostel - a converted colonial house whith lovely roof terrace with views of some of the 14 volcanos that surrounded the city. We indulged in some sun bathing, shopping and reading of Heat magazine and suchlike that the hostel had thoughtfully provided and the above became the staples of Charlies life for the next couple of days while she concentrated on some serious R+R. (rest and receuperation for thouse not in the know).
Despite the fact that comrade Marsden was unavailable for mission "El Misti", Hudson decided to accept the challenge alone and joined a tour group. El Misti is an "extremely active" volcano which if it errupted, would affect a 40km radius. The aim was to reach the summit, 5825m, in 2 days.
We were taken to 3300m by 4x4 (which actually more closely resembled a camper van) and set off complete with backpacks with ALL our clothes and camping gear which weighed about 8kg - not negligable. We walked for 1 hour before being allowed a 10 minute break and this pattern continued for 5 hours until we reached "base camp" which was at about 4500m. We were allowed to chose whether to stop there or continue to a second base camp 200m higher. We opted for the former and Westlifes "takin the easy way out" played through my head. We lay down to enjoy the last of the sun while our guide made a start on dinner. The sunset was amazingly beautiful and silouetted the surrounding moutains and made rainbow patterns on the clouds. As it got dark, the city of Arequipa "appeared" below as the lights came on - it just kind of came out of nowhere which was very cool. Speaking of which, once the sun had gone, it quickly became VERY cold. I put on all my clothes (and some of Charlies) and tried to keep warm until dinner. It was about minus 2 as I literally shovelled noodles into my mouth for fear that the might go cold before I could eat them! Very dignified Im sure. By this point it was about 7pm but way too cold to do anything other than get into our tents. I managed 2 hours sleep which Im told is pretty good considering most people suffer insomnia at altitute. At least I learned to something well at uni!
I was awoken at 2am by our guide. We, for reasons I still dont understand, were due to continue climbing at 3am. After breakfast (frozen bread rolls with plastic cheese and jam), we set off from camp. I looked ridiculous in my miner style head lamp and 7 layers. But I really didnt care. The terrain was similar to the first day although steeper. This wasnt so much treking as climbing. We were basically going straight up, climbing over and around these massive boulders interspersed with stretches of volcanic ash were for every two steps you took forward, you sid about one back. I hasnt really had any problmes with the altitude on the first day, unlike some of the others who were compaining of headaches and feeling sick. Thinking I must be immune, I battled my unfittness with the words of Charlie ringing in my ears "Just keep putting one foot in front of the other!" It was seriously like those "fairy steps" I used to do as a kid. As we got higher, it got colder still and at about minus 5 my toes were freezing. Our guide told us that the temperature drops between 5 and 7am and thinking this must be something to do with "the darkest hour is just before the dawn" I carried on in the hope that I would warm up soon. However, the altitude was begining to take its toll and I was feeling sick as well as having trouble breathing. I asked the guide something along the lines of "are we nearly there yet" and was gutted when he said it was 2 and a half more hours. We carried on, me stopping to lean on rocks every so often to get my breath back. It was getting light but no warmer. The combination of the pain in my toes (i was convinced I had frostbite), inability to breathe (I was literally gasping for air) and the feeling that I might be sick at any minute was overwhelming and I was actually crying whilst walking up this thing. The guide suggested that I wait behind whilst the others went to the top and they would collect me on the way back. In between crying and gasping for air, I assured him that I was fine and wanted to carry on. I was determined to reach the top (Id always been facinated by volcanoes and really wanted to see the crater) and anyway, I didnt relish the prospect of being left alone on the side of a volcano in the freezing cold for 3 hours! So we continued and Im sure it was the hardest thing Ive ever done - worse even than May bumps in second year. My toes were still freezing so with one hour to go, I stopped and put my feet in the guides sleeping bag to try to warm them. The others, who had cunningly taken pills against altitude sickness (I had a Coca tea and an asprin!) carried on. Me and the guide started off again and after half and hour of scrambling up volcanic ash, I made it to the crater. The americans suggested I wait there while they went to the summit. I replied "no thanks, its not in my nature" and slowly but surely, followed them to the summit. I had to lie down on the path every 20 steps or so but eventually made it. The view of the surrouding snow capped peaks was amazing and you could see right into the crater where there was steam coming out of this huge sulphur covered plug. The smell of eggs was actually quite welcome... it had been a great boost to catch a wiff on the way up as it indicated we were getting close! The crater was one of the most amazing things Ive ever seen and the sense of acheivement at getting to the top was pretty awesome, if slightly overshadowed by the fact that I was SO knackered! "On top of the world, looking down on creation" played in my head.
So having taken 12 hours to get up this thing, the plan was to get down in 3. How?... using the ultimate efficiency accessory... the pyroclastic flow. At least I assume thats what it was... this river of volcanic ash that ran from top to bottom of the volcano which I guess was all that was left after tons of ash blasted down the moutain when it last errupted. Walking down it was pretty scary, especially as there was not a lot between me and eternity should I have tripped and fallen straight down!
We called at base camp to collect our tents and made it back to our waiting "4x4" in one piece. I was really pleased to have made it to the top but as I walked down the last bit of volcanic ash I was singing "we gotta get out of this place, if its the last thing we ever do". I was "so over" climbing volcanoes and although Im proud I did it, I wont be rushing to climb another one in a hurry!
previous travel blog entry
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