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For some reason I didn't sleep too well and it didn't help that
there was a gang of dogs outside my window and when one barked, the
rest had to join in for about 5 minutes. I got up at 4:15am and waited
for my tuk tuk driver at 4:45am. I really wasn't sure if he was going
to show since I never got an email response from him. I waited for
about 15 minutes and then debated about going back to bed, but I really
wanted to see the sunrise. I wandered out into the very quiet streets
and took the first tuk tuk that I saw for $10 there and back.
We
stopped to get my three day pass ($60) and as we were leaving, there
must have been at least ten or so other tuk tuks also heading off. I
swear it was like a tuk tuk race with tuk tuks speeding along, with my
driver leaving everyone in his dust except for one. However, he did
manage to finally overtake the lead tuk tuk, who did have quite a head
start! I must admit that I hadn't done much
research on Angkor Wat before heading to Cambodia. So when people
talked about Angkor Wat I never really realized that Angkor Wat is just
one temple (the main one) amongst many other temples. Following is a
link to the map of Angkor Archeological Park - www.canbypublications .com/maps/templemap.htm
My tuk tuk driver let me off across from Angkor Wat and I followed the
hordes of people also there for the sunrise. I stopped for some time
on the bridge that lead to Angkor Wat before heading down to a pond
where I finished watching the sunrise and got to see the reflection of
Angkor Wat in the pond which was very cool. With
the sun mostly risen, I left without actually going into Angkor Wat as
I figured I would be seeing that the next day. I went back to the
area where my driver had let me off and it was a good thing that he was
able to signal to me because I am not sure with all the other tuk tuk
drivers there, I would have been able to find him!
Our first stop was to Prasat Kraven (early 10th Century) which was a nicely restored brick structure with one main structure flanked by two smaller structures on each side. Next we headed onto Banteay Kdei (late 12th Century) which was made up of sandstone but due to poor construction had deteriorated quite a bit. It was a really neat site with lots of corridors to walk through and some great carvings.
Across
from Banteay Kdei was Sras Srang (mid 10 Century to late 12th Century)
which was right next to a large pool of water. There really wasn't
anything to see compared to the other temples and was my least favorite
site.
Next my driver took me to Ta Phrom
(mid 12th Century to early 13th Century) which I had actually wanted to
see the next day but by the time I realized which temple I was in, my
driver had already taken off to meet me on the other side. As I got
near the entrance, two kids approached me asking me to buy a bracelet.
I politely refused but to no avail as the little girl put a couple of
bracelets on my wrist and as I tried to take them off she told me that
if I did, I didn't love Cambodia and if I didn't love Cambodia I didn't
like her. What choice did I have? Guilt always gets me. I
was excited to see Ta Phrom because it was intentionally left partially
uncleared of jungle growth and is famous for its "tree in temple" photo
opp. I rushed through knowing I would be back the next day, but of
course, I had to snap a few pictures first.
Meeting up with my driver I got him back on track and we set off for Pre Rup (late 10th Century) which was another brick structure with multiple levels. I ventured up the steep and narrow steps to the top for a wonderful view of the surrounding area. One thing of note at this temple were the beautifully carved doors.
Next
onto East Mebon (late 10th Century) which was also a small multi-level
brick structure. Quite aways from East Mebon we arrived at Ta Som
(late 12th Century) which was similar to Ta Phrom with inner
sanctuaries. The main attraction at this temple was the huge tree that
is destroying one of the gates, but did make for a great picture.
We
headed on to Neak Pean (late 12th Century) which was a temple
surrounded by eight pools that no longer are filled with water but back
in the day, it was thought that the water that did fill the pools had
heading powers. Unfortunately, as I left I managed to get a big piece
of dirt in my eye which is not surprising given how dusty it was as you
walked around. I didn't have any water on me and rubbing my eye didn't
seem to help, just made it more uncomfortable. The entrance way was
pretty far and took longer with only one eye! I did manage to get some
water and about mid-way through the next temple, the dirt finally made
its way out.
The last stop of the day for
temple seeing was Preah Khan (late 12 Century) which was similar to Ta
Phrom with many corridors to explore and was also a little overgrown.
This temple had some excellent carvings.
Close
to 10:30am it was getting hotter and since I had seen everything that I
had planned to see for that day (in less time that I thought it would
take) I headed back. I had asked my driver to stop at a place that
sells leather shadow puppets to check them out. Unfortunately, he
didn't understand me and after his two attempts to take me where he
thought I wanted to go, but wasn't, I gave up and headed back to the
guesthouse. Once back, I collected my things
and checked out as I had decided to move to Fresh Guesthouse that was
right across from the Old Market and was only $8 a night. Granted, it
wasn't as nice as the other place, but sufficed.
I
treated myself to a two hour massage, with the first hour being a
reflexology foot massage and the second hour being a Thai massage, all
for $12. I had never had a reflexology massage before. It was like a
regular massage, but a stick was used to rub my feet along with some
cream. Then the stick was used to pinpoint certain areas of the foot
which was a little painful, but in a good way. The massage was good,
but once back at the guesthouse to shower, I noticed that there were
small droplets of blood all over my pants and it wasn't from me :(
Once
showered, I headed back to The Red Piano to meet up with Steve, Erik,
Frank and Lou. However, only three of the four showed up. Turns out
Steve wasn't feeling well and since he had been to the temples before,
he decided to get better in Phnom Penh and would arrive the following
day. We ate dinner at The Red Piano and then
headed to the Funky Monkey as Frank had met the owner the previous
year. Once we managed to find it, it turned out to be closed. So
instead, we ended up at The Temple Bar, one of the livelier places in
town. After a few drinks I called it a night.
To view all my photos, you can go to www.flickr.com/photos /britishjen/collections /72157602823515791




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