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Alleppey is a lush region of paddy fields nestled between the sea and surrounding hillsides on Indian’s south western coast. Life here revolves around the water as villages are built on thin strips of land that weave endlessly through the valley. Coconut trees fringe every shore and life seems to have been preserved the way it’s been for hundreds of years.
We were able to hire a houseboat for a day to explore the area in luxury. The houseboats in Alleppey are unlike any boats we’d ever seen. They’re difficult to describe but look something like floating brown turtle shells. Our boat had two bedrooms, a bathroom, and an open air lounge area to relax. A team of three was sent with us to operate the boat and cook our meals.
We left during a torrential downpour and were worried our boat would not hold up to the rain. But to our pleasant surprise the boat was built well and we didn’t feel a drop. As we pulled out of the harbor, we could see a hundred boats similar to ours and were happy to be there during low season when the waters would be quiet.
Our boat meandered at a leisurely pace through the canals while we sat back and watched life float by. Women, submerged to their waists, were washing dishes and cleaning clothes. Men fished with homemade nets and children played and bathed. The canals acted like roadways and were used to transport food and supplies, often being propelled with nothing more than a pole and a little elbow grease.
Three meals were promised along the way but we didn’t expect more than a sandwich or two. When our first meal was brought out we could hardly believe our eyes. The chef had prepared 6 or 7 curries to accompany a large bowl of rice, as well as a plate of fresh veggies and a mountain of chapati bread. It was a true feast, and each subsequent meal seemed to out do the last. We even got coffee and banana fritters for an afternoon snack.
The time on the boat passed too quickly and before we knew it we were back on land. We found ourselves with a few extra days due to train booking and scheduling issues and spent some of that time updating the website. (Some of you may have noticed this when 5 new entries suddenly popped up!) Luckily for us, we chanced into an internet café across from Brothers Hotel with fast connections, plenty of computers, and great staff. We spent so much time over the net few days there that we became friendly with the owners.
On one of our last days, they invited us to their home and showed us around some of the town that we hadn’t seen. Our thanks to Indu and her family for their hospitality! I had a blast trying on a Sari, watching wedding videos, and trying Guava’s off the tree. In the evening they drove us over to the beach in town. We were amazed to find it packed with families. In India, it is not so popular to go to the beach in the daytime since it is way too hot, but at night people arrive in droves. We saw a boy flying a kite, and kids jumping around in the waves on the shore. We had a great time, and were so glad we were able to meet such great people.
After a lengthy stay we hopped on the train for a nice 55 hour ride to Jaipur in the North.
previous travel blog entry
Manlius Dad says:
Got your email. Glad you enjoyed the ecard. Congrats on being selected as an "Editors Pick". Seems the blog site editors are enjoying your blog as much as we are. Awesome descriptions of the house boat and your wonderful encounters with the local population. Sounds absoutely marvelous. Both of you look healthy and incredibly happy. Much love Mom and Dad