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Fancying a bit more Great Barrier Reef action we headed north to the Whitsundays. The Whitsunday Islands are 74 pieces of paradise set in some of the bluest, cleanest & safest sailing waters in the world. We bussed it up to Airlie Beach and had a look round for some last minute cruise deals, managing to get onto a fantastic yacht called the Madison for three days and nights (www.seethewhitsundays.com/ opp/tours/os/ madison), for over two hundred dollars less than the normal price. Hurrah. The alcohol budget has a lovely way of looking after itself.

We spent a couple of days waiting at Airlie Beach itself - okay for a couple of drinks and a few ogles, but that's it - and then set sail. When we booked the cruise we knew that didn't want a party yacht full of pissed kids, but when we boarded we became slightly apprehensive at the average age of our fellow passengers. There's just no pleasing us is there? Well, actually we couldn't have been luckier. The Captain and hostess (Pete and Nelly Whooaaarrrr) were excellent, and the rest of the passengers were really cool. There was a young couple from Mexico, Denise & Louis; a retired couple from England, Jack & Vic; Carolyn from London; and Wally, a retired American cultural attache. What a great mix. We loved it - everyone was sociable and interesting, and the surrounds were incredible. We ambled along beaches with sand so fine that they used a few tonnes of it to make the Hubble telescope lens; snorkeled in clear water over huge, incredible, bustling reef systems; spent the evenings listening to Wally's world class ballilica playing (Mum C would have loved it); watched a pod of dolphins hitch a ride under the prow; swam with turtles and massive schools of fish; helmed (apparently the correct nautical term, nothing smutty) a yacht under sail; and lots of stuff. Magic. We'll never forget it.

Well, it had to end, so once we'd docked and said goodbye the C Team headed south to Bundaberg to see sea turtles lay eggs at night. If that sounds a little specific it's because the only reason you'd visit Bundaberg is to see the turtles. Don't move there kids. We were lucky because we got to see a huge Loggerhead Turtle right at the start of the season - she hauled herself up the beach and dug a nest before we were allowed down onto the beach by the rangers, but we saw her laying about 130 ping-pong sized eggs and pulling herself down to the beach afterwards. It was magic, not something we'd see at home. Apparently the temperature of the sand determines the sex of the young hatchling; the cool ones are fellers & the hotties are ladies. Hehehe. Although global warming isn't going to do them any favours either.

Once we'd seen the turtle do her thing - and it did get quite upfront & Attenborough - we headed south to Brisbane to spend some time with some of Charlie's relatives and catch a plane to Alice Springs. We popped in to see Zoe and Grant, who have a nice place on the outskirts of Brisbane. We had beers and barbecue, it was excellent. After a couple of nights we moved in with Elaine and Tony and family. They were really welcoming, and the kids were fantastic. Shame about the rugby. After a couple of smashing nights in Brisbane we caught a plane (just) to Uluru.


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