National Archaeological Museum

At press time, only the ground floor of this enormous and enormously popular museum had reopened after extensive renovations and reinstallation of the collection. Try to be at the door when it opens, so you can see the exhibits and not the backs of other visitors. Early arrival, except in high summer, should give you at least an hour before most tour groups arrive; alternatively, get here an hour before closing or at lunchtime, when the tour groups may not be as dense. If you can come more than once, your experience here will be a pleasure rather than an endurance contest. Tip: Be sure to get the brochure on the collection when you buy your ticket; it has a handy and largely accurate description of the exhibits.The Mycenaean Collection includes gold masks, cups, dishes, and jewelry unearthed from the site of Mycenae by Heinrich Schliemann in 1876. Many of these objects are small, delicate, and very hard to see when the museum is crowded. Don't miss the stunning burial mask that Schliemann misnamed the "Mask of Agamemnon." Archaeologists are sure that the mask is not Agamemnon's, but belonged to an earlier, unknown monarch. Also not to be missed are the stunning Vaphio cups, showing mighty bulls, unearthed in a tomb at a seemingly insignificant site in the Peloponnese. If little Vaphio could produce these riches, what remains to be found in future excavations?The museum also has a stunning collection of Cycladic figurines, named after the island chain. Although these figurines are among the earliest known Greek sculptures (about 2,000 B.C.), you'll be struck by how modern the idols' faces look compared to those wrought by Modigliani. One figure, a musician with a lyre, seems to be concentrating on his music, cheerfully oblivious to his onlookers. If you are fond of these Cycladic sculptures, be sure to take in the superb collection at the N. P. Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art .The museum's staggeringly large sculpture collection invites you to wander, stopping when something catches your fancy. We stop for the bronzes, from the tiny jockey to the monumental figure variously identified as Zeus or Poseidon. Much ink has been spilled trying to prove that the god was holding either a thunderbolt (Zeus) or a trident (Poseidon). And who can resist the bronze figures of the handsome young men, perhaps athletes, seemingly about to step forward and sprint through the crowds? National Archaeological Museum Update--The National Archaeological Museum closed for renovations in 2002 and partially reopened its ground floor in 2005, after extensive renovations and reinstallation. At press time, it was not clear whether the restored 3500-B.C. Thira frescoes (displayed on the second floor before the earthquake) would remain in the museum or be sent back to the island of Thira (Santorini). If you are especially interested in seeing the vase collection and the Thira frescoes, e-mail the museum to see if they will be on view during your visit (protocol@eam.culture.gr). You can also check the Ministry of Culture's website (www.culture.gr). We don't know where some objects (such as the superb collection of red and black figure vases) will be displayed, but for now, we highlight the museum's main attractions. Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Price

Admission 6€ ($7.80) or 12€ ($16) with admission to the Acropolis

Credit Cards Accepted

none accepted

Directions

Metro: Omonia or Biktoria

Area

The museum is 1/3 mile (10 min. on foot) north of Omonia Sq. on the road named Leoforos 28 Octobriou, but usually called Patission

Hours

Mon 12:30-5pm; Tues-Fri 8am-5pm; Sat-Sun and holidays 8:30am-3pm. (Sometimes open to 7pm, but you can't count on this.)

Information by Frommers